WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

Since I'm going to finally run an open raod race this year, I thought it was time to install a fire system. (thanks Boyce!) Don't want to worry about no oil fire rolling down the road at 140mph! So I ordered the 2.3L system from ESS. Pretty easy to do, nice kit, I only needed 2 90* pipe fittings & 5 more feet of tubing.

I put 1 nozzle by the gas tank & 2 in the engine bay. They make a bigger system w/4+ nozzles if you want more. And I installed the handle where both the driver & nav could reach it. Anyway, here are some pics....

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

Cool pics, looks like a pretty good system...

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

It is supposed to be one of the better systems available. It's CO2 charged foam....easy to clean up & refill.

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

A system like this would have come in handy when my Procharged and flawless 96 Z28 burned to the ground a few years back.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

That's a slick system. How much was that?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Slick install ... but ...

All those splits in the primary feed is going to cause the system to spray at a significantly reduced pressure and for a shorter duration.

A fire system is NOT designed to extinguish a car fire, rather give the driver a few precious seconds in which to get away from the fire.

Think about the time line ....

Realizing there is a fire - 2 seconds
Reaching and pulling the fire handle - 2 seconds
Stopping from 140mph - 10 seconds
Unbuckling, killing power, climbing out - 10 seconds

Conservatively, you are looking at almost 1/2 a minute before you get out of the car and away from the flames. That 5lb bottle won't last that long.

A 5lb-er for the engine bay and a 5lb-er for the driver's compartment would be better served.

Not hating, just an FYI ....

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

You make some good points Mitch, ones that I've thought about now that I have the system. It was designed for this many splits & nozzles. I should have bought a bigger system with another tap w/2 more nozzles. And since it's foam, it does a much better job of staying where it's sprayed & smothering a fire than halon etc (without killing you off if you put nozzles in the interior).

My goal with this is to try to knock a fire down so I can stop the car & get out. I also have an extinguisher mounted to my roll bar to hopefully finish the job. If there is a fire, I figure it's most likely going to be oil or gas related, hence my nozzle placement selections. If it's an electrical fire under the dash, the car is probably toast & I'll find out how good my fire suit is. Cuz every electrical fire in the interior that I have been around burned the car to the ground.

I'm also a little paranoid about the car at the drags now. A low 10 sec car can get out of shape in a hurry, and the retaining wall probably won't be my friend if I put the nose of the car into it with a gal of pure meth behind the grill.

And I'm sorry John! That had to hurt. What caused the fire?

NataSSInc hooked me up with this system. You might try pm-ing him to see if he can get you a deal.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That's an excellent idea and well worth the weight you have to carry. You should be in pretty good shape, then.

If your car is gutted, I've seen holes cut in the passenger side interior door skin and a small extinguisher mounted there as well.

The thought is not having to reach INTO a burning car to get a hand held extinguisher.

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

Insurance investigator determined that Morrison Motorsports in Albany re-installed a procharger kit for me with a built 355 LT1, left the FMU in place with a (should have been noticeable to them) fuel leak. After a couple of weeks of driving, it totally saturated the lines in and around the FMU in the engine compartment, so all it took was a backfire / spark / glowing hot header / driving over someone's cigaretter they just flicked out their window, etc. to light it up.

They weren't sure what caused the 'spark', but it didn't take much.