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Road Racing with big cam.

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Old 04-17-2007 | 09:42 PM
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Default Road Racing with big cam.

HI.!

Wanted to ask a general question maybe get some opinions or hints or whatever.

I just upgraded to a Magic Stick 4 in my M6 2800 lbs car, and I'm now realising I have drifted off to the drag racing side more than what the car was made for and what I actually wanted to do - road race. I don't want to road race for a few hours and car ends up braking, I want to road race safe for quite sometime.

Either way I'm running MS4 cam with dual valvesprings and all the needed valvetrain. Will that cam be too much of a cam that beats way too hard on the valvetrain in road race conditions?

Thanks.

KAKRI
Old 04-17-2007 | 09:50 PM
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It's tough to predict. One would think that a properly set up valvetrain will sustain the abuse. Refreshening of the valvetrain will be necessary more frequently however.
There's lots of guys out there lapping with LG grinds (decent sized duration, high lift, COMP XER lobes) doing just fine. It's up to you.
I personally would use an XE lobe somewhere in the 228-232 range, .57x lift.

Consult Katech and LG. They have plently of RR knowledge.
Old 04-18-2007 | 04:25 PM
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I think a smaller cam is preffered but I think it is a matter on how closely you want to monitor your valvetrain. Like it was smentioned above the G5x3 and 4 are pretty big. I have and MS4 and plan to open track it a few times this year. I will probably check my springs every 5,000 miles at a min. But I'm **** like that. I will also be taking the covers off and inspect everything the day before the events. for the first few events and see how it goes from there. I think Drag racing can be harder on springs than road racing due to the fact that usually you run a car hard for 11-12 secs and then let them cool for 20-30min. over and over. When RR you will most likely take a few warmup laps so the engine is at operating temperature and the tires are heated, then run it hard for 20min or so, but rpm transitions are slower and smoother. I believe it is better for your valvetrain over the shock from flooring a relatively cool engine from a dig and powershifting your way through the 1/4, but I will find out soon enough. You will just have to be careful that you don't miss a shift because that could cause a problem with the tight P2V of the MS4 (if your bottom end is upgraded you have a little extra wiggle room). My .02
Old 04-18-2007 | 04:38 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. Let me know how it turns out for you. By checking springs do you mean just looking over them or taking off and test?

Last few years I got pretty good about misshifting, even if it won't go in the gear i haven't over revved it in a looong time.




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