heres what its doing then the history on the problem. when the transmission is put into reverse, it pulls great just like it should. when it is put into any other gear it acts like it BARELy wants to do anything it wont pull enough to move the truck. now if i pull the TRANS fuse from the fuse box or unplug the transmission, it goes to limp mode i guess where it trys to take off in 3rd gear.


trans has been rebuilt into diff. case because we thought there may have been crack in old case...problem not solved...pulled out sent it down for rebuild again...problem not fixed. hooked system scanner up to it at a buddys shop, i forget the code it threw but it was for the 2-3 shift solenoid...im not sure how that could be since i had them all replaced and also had the internal wiring replaced on the valve body. so after having it rebuilt and replacing the trans. electronics, i started looking for maybe a short in the wiring harness...went and found a good un massacared engine and under dash wiring harness and swapped them out and STILL have same problem... could a bad computer be causing this? please any help would be GREATLY appreciated

 

ok does it ever shift or is it the same wit the harness plugged or unpluged from the trans (fusse removed) it does sound electronic but if it is and you replaced all of that I am not sure the title suits POS 4L60E since it would not be the trans causing the problem
Read down in tis thread you will find instructions on how to build a cheap monitor box to see exactly what the PCM is being commanded to do .
Frank at PerformaBuilt

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/886087-tech-info-codes-coolers-fluid-levels-cooler-flush-more.html

 

ok well if i can rule the trans out for sure than i guess the title would be incorrect...more like "one exspensive rebuild".lol...and no it never shifts, just acts like it wants to pull more when the harness is unplugged or fuse removed

 

Parts- all from radio shack cheap
1-Three 12v LEDs They can be different colors(NO LIGHT BULBS WILL NOT WORK)
2-Some sort of bevel to mount them in Or you can mount them in a panel in your car permanent.
3-Three lengths of wire. Perferably different colors to avoid confusion.
4-Blue side wire splicers the type you use pliers to push down the tab to make a splice.

Ok you want to hook the three wires to the following in the harness either at the trans or find them at the PCM
A-Light green wire. This is the 1-2 shift solenoid.
B-Yellow with black stripe. This is the 2-3 shift solenoid
C-Tan wire with black stripe. This is the lockup (TCC)
solenoid.

Do not cut the wires use the slicers and connect your wires one to each and then run them into the car.
Inside the car take each wire and hook up to the negative side of the LEDs choose which ones you want to represent each solenoid.
Tie the POSITIVE side of all the LEDs together and run a wire to a 12v switched source(radio fuse)

Ok now its simple

(1-2)on and (2-3) on is 1st gear
(1-2)off and (2-3) on is second gear
(both off ) is 3rd gear
(1-2)on and (2-3) off is 4th gear
TCC on means your converter should be locked.


This IMO is cool and helpful no more will you wonder if that 2-3 shift that hit the limiter was tuning or trans related and you will know the time from comand to actual shift watching when the lights iluminate and feeling when the shift happens. This could be usefull when setting shift poits since the time is a constant.

No more wondering wether your converter not being locked is a tuning or transmission issue you will see when and if the PCM comands lockup and this can all be done for less than $10 and 30 minutes setting it up.

Hope someone finds this usefull was thinking I have explained this a dozen times to people trying to solve various lockup and shifting issue and may or may not have scanner tools and its proved invaluable to them so why not just post it for anyone who might wanna make a new toy/gadget.
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ok so after reading all of that, why couldnt i just get a test light and probes these wires? and if by doing that it doesnt light up, would that mean that theres nothing coming from the PCM to the trans?

 

Actually that would be backwards but, You can do a couple test,
There should be battery voltage on pin E its one of the PINK wires going into the trans. both of the pink wires should have voltage but one measures lower i forget the exact amount. You can use a test light for that one.
However the PCM grounds the solenoids the pink wire supplys B+ VOLTAGE to them all so i would verify that first.
Now to see if the shift solenoids are being grounded by the PCM you would need to use and led not a test light
a test light draws to much current and would set a code and limp mode all on its own.
You can just use two LEDs ned side of each to the yello/black and lite green wires respectivly and the POS side to the fuse box if you like.

 

just a dumb question, did you put a high stall converter in..

 

no sir, no converter put in just trying to line out a money pit that i thought i got a good deal on..hahaha

 

ok so i went ahead and tried the LED setup to make sure the PCM was grounding the wires out, and it was working fine...i got underneath the truck also and checked the plug that goes into the tranny, same result. ANY other input as to what this problem could be would be GREATLY APPRECIATED

 

forgot to ask, in which gear selector position should each of the light be lit up to know if it was working properly? i went down to the junkyard and got a second pcm with the same serv. # and they both did the same when the led light were gooked up so thats why im assuming its fine. also, could it be possible that the internal trans harness was plugged in wrong, like to the wrong solenoids? im not sure since im not the one that hooked it up

 

The gear positions would make no difference, driving the car 1st=both on - 2nd =1 on and 1 off - 3rd=both off - 4th=1on and 1 off.

 

ok great, yea thats exactly how the lights were lighting up but i havent been able to get the truck to move so it hasnt been driven. just started the truck and moved the gear shifter and watched the lights

when i moved the shifter into 1st , both lights came on, second, 1 light came on, 3rd both lights(im guessing because its supposed to start out in 1st when you put it into 3rd and same thing when put into 4th

 

bump!

 

Are you saying the truck wont move at all forward ? If so your issue is mechanical not electrical and is internal

 

well like i originally sid, it wont move out of its tracks when you put it in gear other than reverse but if you un plug the trans, it trys to move a little...thats why i was assuming electrical?....but from what im saying and you still think its mechanical,what should be looked for when it gets torn down again

 

s????

 

I would have to say mechanical and unplugging the harness would just make it start in 3rd gear, I would look at the low roller clutch and input sprag. even with a electrical problem you would still be able to drive it , It would simply stay in 3rd gear .

 

wow this is nerve racking. ive taken this trans to the same person twice and would have figured that forsure after taking it back the second time it would be lined out...looks like i better get a book and rebuild kit

 

I know this is coming back from the dead. But does anyone have any pics of this setup with the lights. I just bought some to do this but not real sure where to put the lights. Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks.

 

When you changed the case, did you change the pump or input drum? If not, you could have transfered the problem to the new case. Check the sprags like Performa said. Look in the input drum for a missing check ball or a cracked shaft. BEFORE you disassemble the input drum, aircheck the ports in the shaft with a rubber tip to make sure there are no leaks. When checking the top hole in the shaft, block the second hole with your finger. After you pull the tip away from the top hole and the air releases, remove your finger and air should release from the second hole-only after you remove your finger. When applying air to the 2nd hole, air will not come out of the top hole. It should just hold air. When applying air to the third hole you will hear a slight leak in the drum. This is normal. If the drum holds air, disassemble and look at the input sprag, frictions, proper assembly-not to insult, etc. If all looks good, move on to the pump. Stack the drums together, (Reverse Input on the Input Drum), with the washers, and install onto the back of the pump. You will have to aircheck the drums through the pump. You will have to block one of the holes on the back of the pump, (just like your finger over the 2nd hole), so you don't think you have a problem. Your builder should do this for you. There is no guarantee this will find the problem, but it should point you in another direction to find the problem if these parts don't leak.