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If you are within 1/2" when it "stops" I'd try pulling it in with bolts. Go slow and carefully to watch IF the trans is pulling toward the bellhousing. If you are fighting PP finger pressure, then it should move in smoothly and easily.
If something is truly binding then you should notice it not moving in anymore.
You should not be fighting anything when installing the trans. There should be zero contact anywhere except for the input shaft sliding through the clutch into the pilot bearing/bushing, and if an alignment tool was used properly there should be no resistance. As said, it's unnecessary to draw the trans on with bolts.
First, take that PLASTIC "alignment" tool that you got with your clutch kit, and .......... throw it as far into the trash as you can!!!
Next, take the bell housing off the back of the engine, and loosen the pressure plate until you can move the clutch (i.e. friction) disc with your fingers.
Now, "finger gauge" the distance between the edge of the 11" pressure plate, and the edge of the 10.5" clutch disc. You're looking for an even 1/4" space all around the circumference of the disc. Once you've set that 1/4" space 360 degrees evenly around the pressure plate and clutch disc, tighten down the pressure plate bolts.
Your trans will now just slide in without forcing ...... anything!
So I just redone my clutch, I mocked everything before torquing it down. And the trans slipped right in no pressure. My guess is the clutch was slightly off.