When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got this sucker out today. The oil pan was on and the last bolt decides to snap clean in half about 2 threads deep into the block. I got pretty lucky, my drill bit somehow caught the bolt while I was pulling the bit back out of the hole and spun the whole bolt out in one piece! Needless to say I am ordering some ARP oil pan bolts today. Another forum says Kit # 134-1802 is the way to go. Can anyone reassure that? (And ignore my flip flops. It's at least 100 degrees in the garage today )
he does still make them, and they are high quality pieces. Send him a pm through that site for his latest pricing. They were fairly priced when i bought them as they are jet coated and 1-3/4 primaries.
I used the 400 grit 4inch bore full hone. It is more expensive compared to the half hones they sell at enginehones.com but the whole cylinder is even and looks fresh outta the factory! Because it's an iron block I didn't go with a super hard material, whatever their basic cutting stone is is the one I used.
happen to know part#?bores look sweet...i need to hone my cylinders..doing a quick re ring...
So I ordered the oil pan bolts, pretty sure they are the right ones. To anyone that may know a bit about how the lt1 clutch pedal assembly works, I have 4th gen pedals mounted in my third gen (4 bolts to the brake booster/master) and the clutch pedal has that bracket where I assume the master cylinder is mounted. Before I start cutting a hole in my firewall can someone describe how it is mounted in a 4th gen? is it straight out of the firewall, at an angle? and do you just run bolts through the firewall into the clutch pedal bracket or do they go through the master cylinder and the clutch pedal bracket?
Mounts to the firewall flush, but the mount puts the master cylinder sits at around a 45* angle. There is a U-bolt mount for it and the U stays on the engine side with the threads going through the firewall. Two nuts and a bracket(I think that is part of the clutch pedal assembly) hold it on the other side.
This is not the right cylinder(might be an LS1 type), but this does look like the U bolt. Notice the flanges mid bolt that pull the cylinder tight to the firewall. http://image.superchevy.com/f/587261...tch-master.jpg
I'll try to get some pics of my Z28 here in a few mins.....
Oil pan and flywheel went on today, along with cutting the clutch master cylinder hole. I just wish ARP wasn't so expensvie... They are the best though, very happy with the bolts. Everything seems to seal well!
The old pilot bushing sent me on quite the adventure... Tried a puller with no success, so I went on a 30 minute drive to the nearest store with a blind hole puller with a nice slide hammer. Almost 5 hours later and the old bushing torn to bits I finally got it out!
I really had to cut into it, but I didn't hit the crank at all! New bushing went in today along with the new clutch/PP. If someone could just double check me on my specs that would be great! PP bolts are torqued to 22lbs, and is throwout bearing is mounted correct? The C clip holds onto the bearing through the PP?
Here's a picture -
So the parts have really started to pile up, good news is its all going on the car before I leave for school, even better is I get to bring it! Found a storage unit that is less than 5 miles from campus. I went with some Hedman shorties, built for sbc third gens but everywhere I read says that the round primaries should be large enough to cover the D-port heads.
Back home on winter break! I have about a month to work on the car and a whole lot of catching up to do. I'll continue to post here and just started making youtube videos about the car so stay tuned!
The old pilot bushing sent me on quite the adventure... Tried a puller with no success, so I went on a 30 minute drive to the nearest store with a blind hole puller with a nice slide hammer. Almost 5 hours later and the old bushing torn to bits I finally got it out!
Were you able to get more than one bit behind the bushing to pull? I could only get one bit and found out if I hammered one side more than the another it would get rocked into the pilot hole and made it extremely difficult to extract. I ended up hammering on all sides equally much like if you were to install a seal and it came right out.
Old Folks trick, fill the bushing and hole with wheel bearing grease,get a alignment pilot shaft in the hole and give it a whack with a BFH. The bushing will generally slide out on the shaft. Tremendous hydraulic pressure this way. FWIW
Old Folks trick, fill the bushing and hole with wheel bearing grease,get a alignment pilot shaft in the hole and give it a whack with a BFH. The bushing will generally slide out on the shaft. Tremendous hydraulic pressure this way. FWIW
I'll have to try this next time, I usually fill the hole with wet toilet paper and use an extension.
07-18-2016 | 01:34 PM
) 
