dsadsdaiouser

We picked up a set of Z06 wheels to run on the street for our C5. They had seen their better days (no curb rash per say ... just dingy and in need of attention) so I washed them and have them a good sanding all over. For paint I use DupliColor graphite after I primed them. Puts multi thin coats on and I have to say they came out pretty well. However, when you run your finger over them in spots you feel and "dust" left behind and a colored residue on your finger. Would lightly wet sanding be the best way to finish them? I have some 600 wet paper in the shop and could use that.

Also, after reading several horrible reviews online I've decided not to clear coat. As much as I would like to have them clear coated in a matte finish to finish the job I've read a bunch of people saying the clear coat screws things up. Any first hand experience here?

Thanks.

Scott

justin455

No. Those paints are metallic. That "dust" you're feeling is the metallic flecks in the paint. That tells me that you probably sprayed the wheels holding the can a little too far away or it was too hot and dry out. So the paint dried in the air and built up on the wheel instead of going on smooth and liquid.

You can wipe them off with a damp cloth, hit them with a little of that 600 sand paper (dry), and add a couple more coats to make sure it goes on properly. It should feel smooth just like any other paint when dry. You can choose to leave them at that, but clear coat will definitely not have any adverse effects on the paint. Not sure who told you that, but they're wrong.

As far as wet sanding goes, just for a general tip, when you're working with paints and such 600 is way too coarse for wet sanding. You'll generally start with 1000 or 1500 and work your way up through 2000 and maybe even 3000 grit. 600 is good for scuffing between primer and base coats, not for a finish.

dsadsdaiouser

Thank you for the time and advice. That all makes sense. It was hot Saturday and I did have the paint can a little ways from the wheel to keep from hitting them with the can when I was painting.

Regarding the clear coat I recently painted all of my nitrous and NANO bottles and then cleared them when I was done and they came out great. IIRC I used Rustoleum products. I googled DupliColor wheel clear coat and found on several different forums (Tundra, Miata, Ford SHO, ... who knew there were other forums besides Corvettes and LS1s?) and I found SEVERAL folks doing something similar to what I'm doing that had issues. They seemed to prep and apply everything correctly and then when they put the clear coat down it either fogged or didn't adhere or checked.

Scott

tug686spd

iTrader: (11)

If the rattle can clear fogs up and doesnt seem to bite its probably because of the humity or maybe a little thick and the surface is drying to fast to cure all the way thriugh. Ive rattle canned many of small parts. If the clear starts fogging even sometimes right as your spraying it on, finish spraying in a nice even coat then get it to the warmest driest spot you can. For this reason I always try to spray during the heat of the day in the garage and if it fogs it goes right out on the blacktop driveway in direct sun. Youll actually see the fog clearing up pretty quick. I actually think some of the fog comes from the temperature change from spraying the can for longer periods of time on bigger pieces. A couple picks to show you dont have to worry right away.