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thanks. Why is the brake position sensor needed vs just an on/off signal? Does the bcm process a signal or does the signal just pass through?
The brake pedal sensor is just like the throttle now. It has two potentiometers in it. without a bps you will not have cruise and no engine braking. It sends a 0 to 100% signal to the bcm. The bcm then sends a signal to the engine. The transmission needs to see this signal as well for proper control. With all the basic sensors working you can have all your power modes working and tap shift. Tap shift now shifts instantly. Its awesome technology.
The brake pedal sensor is just like the throttle now. It has two potentiometers in it. without a bps you will not have cruise and no engine braking. It sends a 0 to 100% signal to the bcm. The bcm then sends a signal to the engine. The transmission needs to see this signal as well for proper control. With all the basic sensors working you can have all your power modes working and tap shift. Tap shift now shifts instantly. Its awesome technology.
Thanks for that info. I was working under the assumption I could get tap shift and cruise bypassing the bcm and going straight to the ecm.
Thanks for that info. I was working under the assumption I could get tap shift and cruise bypassing the bcm and going straight to the ecm.
No the bcm creates the cruise and tap shift signals through its can bus network. The bcm is a critical to the functionality of the network. It takes inputs from any switch or button and converts the signal for the ecm and TCM. The ecm and TCM do not have inputs for these functions. the can bus network did away with those inputs to reduce the wiring count. You also need to match the proper bcm to the ecm as well.
getting close to wrapping up the transmission tunnel mods. I cut out all the weirdly wrinkled stamped metal above the pan and welded in a flat piece and then shaped it into the tunnel. Still more welding and stinking grinding to do but getting much closer to calling the floors and tunnel done.
Are you going to use the oil cooler? I had to buy it separate from my pan. Since it's water cooled, I had the shop modify the fittings to accept AN fittings and tapped into my radiator hose. As far as the drain for the oil catch can, he just plugged it up.
Originally Posted by bamabob
a shiny new 2016 Camaro SS oil pan. This should solve my clearance issues.
My engine didn't come with a trans. I had to use what I already had which was a 4L65E. No cutting the trans tunnel involved. My manifolds were factory Camaro SS manifolds, that were cut and spliced to clear steering, frame, etc. I used the LT1 Chevy PP harness and computer for the engine so there's no Vats to be tuned out, and the AFM is disabled too. She starts right up. Should be completed with the interior by Xmas
Originally Posted by bamabob
getting close to wrapping up the transmission tunnel mods. I cut out all the weirdly wrinkled stamped metal above the pan and welded in a flat piece and then shaped it into the tunnel. Still more welding and stinking grinding to do but getting much closer to calling the floors and tunnel done.
Are you going to use the oil cooler? I had to buy it separate from my pan. Since it's water cooled, I had the shop modify the fittings to accept AN fittings and tapped into my radiator hose. As far as the drain for the oil catch can, he just plugged it up.
I don't want to if I can get by ok without it. A light car should be fine without an oil cooler I think. Any thoughts on this?
I don't know how to answer that question. My 16 Camaro SS has the oil cooler. The factory truck pan has an oil cooler as well, but ICT makes a block off plate for that. I suppose you could just block off the holes. But my shop recommended to go ahead and use the oil cooler since this swap is still fairly new and no one knows what the repercussions of not using it. They also said if it turns out that I did need it, it would be a bigger hassle putting it on after the fact. I suppose it wouldn't hurt using it.
Originally Posted by bamabob
I don't want to if I can get by ok without it. A light car should be fine without an oil cooler I think. Any thoughts on this?
I don't know how to answer that question. My 16 Camaro SS has the oil cooler. The factory truck pan has an oil cooler as well, but ICT makes a block off plate for that. I suppose you could just block off the holes. But my shop recommended to go ahead and use the oil cooler since this swap is still fairly new and no one knows what the repercussions of not using it. They also said if it turns out that I did need it, it would be a bigger hassle putting it on after the fact. I suppose it wouldn't hurt using it.
i agree with that logic. I think I'll let someone else prove that it is in fact needed.
I don't know how to answer that question. My 16 Camaro SS has the oil cooler. The factory truck pan has an oil cooler as well, but ICT makes a block off plate for that. I suppose you could just block off the holes. But my shop recommended to go ahead and use the oil cooler since this swap is still fairly new and no one knows what the repercussions of not using it. They also said if it turns out that I did need it, it would be a bigger hassle putting it on after the fact. I suppose it wouldn't hurt using it.
I just started looing for the cooler. Just looking at is, I'm assuming that the oil circulates just through the cooler itself and engine coolant is routed through the cooler. Can anyone confirm this?
Our 5.3 gen v did not have a cooler. Gm has a factory block off plate on this one. Our 6.2 truck gen v does have a cooler. On the 6.2 we removed the oil cooler and used the gm factory block off. I will keep an eye on oil temps and update
Our 5.3 gen v did not have a cooler. Gm has a factory block off plate on this one. Our 6.2 truck gen v does have a cooler. On the 6.2 we removed the oil cooler and used the gm factory block off. I will keep an eye on oil temps and update
this one is on Amazon as an oe acdelco item for less than $100 which is probably what the block off plate is. I'm thinking tha assuming I have the room for it and that this is a water cooled unit I could try it without water and see what temps look like. I could later add water if needed. I have a temp gauge for transmission if there is not already an available temp reading from obd2
Not a whole lot has been done since last post. I've completed the floor replacement, got the rear axle cleaned up and gong back together and the motor in hopefully for the last time. I've also done some metal work on the body getting all the rust cut out and replaced.
No the bcm creates the cruise and tap shift signals through its can bus network. The bcm is a critical to the functionality of the network. It takes inputs from any switch or button and converts the signal for the ecm and TCM. The ecm and TCM do not have inputs for these functions. the can bus network did away with those inputs to reduce the wiring count. You also need to match the proper bcm to the ecm as well.
Hello! Can you share some more info on wiring to and from the BCM? I'm finally getting close enough to start thinking planning this part of the swap. Thanks!
09-09-2016, 09:07 PM
