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4LUX
Just a caution on blocking the heater ports on the H2O pump. The thermostat needs coolant flow past it in order to open and control properly. If your thermostat bypass (the spring loaded plate at the back of the thermostat) does not have holes, and sits flush in the water pump housing … you will need to add holes.
Also, the heater plumbing will not have any flow at all when the thermostat is closed with the manner you have it plumbed – probably OK for you in Vegas.
Biggest drawback I see in coolant plumbing is at the surge tank (expansion tank). This will have ZERO degass flow UNTIL the thermostat opens. Air that is trapped at the heads or top of the PCAR front radiators will not move to the “expansion tank”. You want the bottom port of that tank to have suction regardless of thermostat open or closed. This will allow flow to carry trapped air to the tank as soon as the engine is started. That tank lower port should be routed to behind the thermostat (essentially the heater return port that you welded). This can still be accomplished by tapping the housing (the front port, or I guess rear port in PCAR orientation)… see pictures of 74MODIFIED in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ter-pipes.html
Plumbed properly, you won’t have any issues burping the air after a couple of cycles + IT WILL STAY PACKED + STAY COOL.
I know... a lot of comments well after your buttoning this up.
Mike
Mike,
The cooling system is plumbed the way Renegade Hybrids instructed. the only change is I have a engine driven water pump and they run an electric one. And yes I drilled holes in the T stat, to allow coolant flow.
I am also using my friend Jason with Alper Motorsports advice. He has build several sandrails and he blocks off the heater hose ports and has no issues. the system will be vacuum filled, so air pockets should not be an issue.
It has been a few weeks since I last posted any progress.I have been getting things done slowly and could have started it up this weekend, but figured I would finish things up completely. Here are a few pictures of the completed oil cooler mounted. I still need to finish up the cooling fan connections into the wiring harness. and re-install the exhaust on the passenger side.
Been working to get the interior back together, before I start the engine. I had heard that if the seats are not in it will set off an air bag code? Here area few photos of the pedal mounting and the GM OB2 port. I still have to fiberglass the old pedal area as a trim cover.
Nice turbo! I wish my 996 had tan interior......
Yes if you have the seat unplugged and turn on the key you will get a airbag light! And not every scanner will do Porsche airbag reset.
I filled my old pedal spot with carpet.
Last edited by Outlaw 911; 03-02-2017 at 01:14 PM.
Durametric is what you will want - for both cars! Can reset airbags and read codes easily. 997.1 or .2? Or is that a 991? I really only know the 996 very well lol! Lots of fun to be had with that turbo
Durametric is what you will want - for both cars! Can reset airbags and read codes easily. 997.1 or .2? Or is that a 991? I really only know the 996 very well lol! Lots of fun to be had with that turbo
2007 997.1TT 6sp MT, Slate Grey Metallic with Sand Beige full leather interior and sport adaptive seats. It is stupid fast!!! And yes I was looking into buying a Durametric for both cars..........
I have a Autel Md802 it has usa, euro (and porsche), asian cars and does codes, live data with srs and abs. Price is pretty reasonable for what you can do.
You are way ahead of me now.. which pedal is that and did you stuff the TAC module under the center console? I plan on buying my pedal this week and curious where you got yours and for how much? Seen several Silverado ones on Fleabay. My PCM was programmed for a Vette Pedal and TAC but not wanting to spend the premium if a truck pedal works. Not sure if I will need reprogramming if I swap but still cheaper than buying a Vette TAC module
You are way ahead of me now.. which pedal is that and did you stuff the TAC module under the center console? I plan on buying my pedal this week and curious where you got yours and for how much? Seen several Silverado ones on Fleabay. My PCM was programmed for a Vette Pedal and TAC but not wanting to spend the premium if a truck pedal works. Not sure if I will need reprogramming if I swap but still cheaper than buying a Vette TAC module
I am running the E38 ECM for 58X, so no TAC module. Mine is the Corvette pedal, Vette pedal was only $100- $120 from PCS.
2007 997.1TT 6sp MT, Slate Grey Metallic with Sand Beige full leather interior and sport adaptive seats. It is stupid fast!!! And yes I was looking into buying a Durametric for both cars..........
Head over to 6SpeedOnline and get that turbo really moving The .1 is a great deal like my 996 turbo, stupid power until the rods bend! Intercoolers and a tune, it'll fly.
My Autel won't even plug into my obdii port, frustrating! Works on everything else it seems though. The Durametric talks Porsche pretty well although my DME was swapped for a ProEFI
Worked most of the day Sunday on the car. Got the interior 90% installed, still have the seats and the convertible top area to finish.
Finished the Oil Cooler fan wiring.
mounted the GM ECM.
Built the Porsche gas pedal fill panel, still need to wrap it with grey vinyl or grip tape??
Here is a picture through the rear window to show the lack of room in the Cab cars for wiring. I have the relay and fuse block for the GM ECM back in this small area.
It was pretty easy to build, just rolled some thin aluminum sheet over a pipe to match the curve. And then JB welded it to the plastic Porsche pedal mount, after I spent about an hour cutting it down.
Mike,
The cooling system is plumbed the way Renegade Hybrids instructed. the only change is I have a engine driven water pump and they run an electric one. And yes I drilled holes in the T stat, to allow coolant flow.
Thanks,
Clyde
I ran an ls3 mechanical pump and kept having cooling issues, i finally had to run both the ls3 pump and an in-line electric pump and all my cooling issues went away.
Sorry to "backtrack" 4LUX, but I was wondering if you can assist me with something. Do you happen to have a picture of the RH engine mounts installed in your car? I'm about to install my LS into my Porsche, and want to make sure I have my mounts in right.....something just seems off to me.
See my photo below......is the blue arrow bolt correct (I used the factory bolt). And what bolt goes where the red arrow is (does RH provide that bolt)? Or am I wrong on all accounts?
12-20-2016, 12:36 PM
The .1 is a great deal like my 996 turbo, stupid power until the rods bend! Intercoolers and a tune, it'll fly.
