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Talked to Mike at EFI source and the injectors are most likely the issue due to being so big for a NA engine. So I am dropping the fuel pressure down and also lowering the required fuel number about 1 full number. DAVE926 also helped me understand some stuff last night which was great.
Talked to mike at EFI source and it looks like it may be my injectors are too big for NA so I am reducing the fuel pressure down and also dropping the required fuel by 1 number to see if that helps. Needs to be leaned out. Also had another fuel setting that was wrong. Hoping tonight it runs right for me.
It now runs. Still doesn't idle but that's fine for now. Its like the idle is too low, not sure if its fuel related or not, but its not rich like it was. Main thing is it runs and sounds good. So the engine build looks to be fine. Now I can mount the front clip and start working on the turbo piping.
Well I finally have the hot side piping completed. Had to make my own 2 into 1 which turned out better than expected. Just need to install the wastegate downpipe which is easy and the turbo downpipe which might exit through the unused gas fill inlet in the bed. If I want to keep it all hidden I will dump it through the bed.
The wideband is in a temp location until I get the downpipe installed. I am going to run it NA with the hot pipes only to cook and blow out any oil or small debris left in the system from the cutting and welding. This was nothing gets into the turbo accidentally.
It now runs. Still doesn't idle but that's fine for now. Its like the idle is too low, not sure if its fuel related or not, but its not rich like it was. Main thing is it runs and sounds good. So the engine build looks to be fine. Now I can mount the front clip and start working on the turbo piping.
First off, bada$$ build so far, it's going to fly when you're done. I was having a similar issue when I first got my car running. Wouldn't idle without staying on the throttle ,running super rich, plugs soaking wet with fuel lol... What helped me was I noticed I had 4 squirts each engine cycle, so I dropped it to 2 and it idled by itself without me staying on the throttle. Just waiting for my wideband to come in so I can start tuning it now. Not saying that's your issue but might be something you might want to check it out
Yea the idle was fixed from the first startup. We chenged a few things. Because of the 80lb injectors and higher base pressure it was dumping gas. So backed down the pressure and dropped the injector requirement value and its much better. The idle issue now is just the IAC needing to be bumped up a few numbers. Not an issue but for some reason I couldnt get the laptop to connect to the MS3 yesterday. Used the set screw on the throttle blade as a band-aid for now just to make it run for a few minutes. Wideband showed about 11.0 at idle so still a little rich.
As for the MS3 not connecting I have no clue. I have several issues in the wiring as well. Some are wiring and some may be settings in the box. When I ran it yesterday and sgut the ignition off it kept running. Never did that before. I had to unhook the battery and kill it. Thankfully I havent added the ignition jumper wire to the alternator yet. Lol.
So it continues. Trying to find someone local that would like to help on the electrical stuff that knows more than I do.
Yea the idle was fixed from the first startup. We chenged a few things. Because of the 80lb injectors and higher base pressure it was dumping gas. So backed down the pressure and dropped the injector requirement value and its much better. The idle issue now is just the IAC needing to be bumped up a few numbers. Not an issue but for some reason I couldnt get the laptop to connect to the MS3 yesterday. Used the set screw on the throttle blade as a band-aid for now just to make it run for a few minutes. Wideband showed about 11.0 at idle so still a little rich.
As for the MS3 not connecting I have no clue. I have several issues in the wiring as well. Some are wiring and some may be settings in the box. When I ran it yesterday and sgut the ignition off it kept running. Never did that before. I had to unhook the battery and kill it. Thankfully I havent added the ignition jumper wire to the alternator yet. Lol.
So it continues. Trying to find someone local that would like to help on the electrical stuff that knows more than I do.
you know what? Mines does that here and there. Not to the extreme where I have remove battery power, but I noticed sometimes when I turn the ignition off, the car still runs for a few seconds??? I haven't had time to really mess with it because I was moving and had to just the car running so it could be moved, but I definitely have to look over some stuff lol..I'm not sure if it's something in the box, Or something on my end?? If I trace it down before you do, I'll be sure to share my findings with you.
I deal with Mike at EFI Source with the MS3 box. Hes been really helpful, but it would be much easier to have someone in person that's able to just sit down and go through it.
Great build here is what I did not the way I plane on doing it but it works really well. My motor is a ly6 out of a 08 van I just change cam and valve springs and I carberated mine cause iam old school and did not want to learn the computer stuff yet. Msd controlle moduel and a afr gage and ive been very happy with the performance so far. This truck has ac and a 4l80 with tci manual valve body no computer needed, so it was normally aspirated and I got the turbo bug and sence I had the hight dollar headers I wasent removing them so I mouted my turbo in the bed on passenger side next to cab. Installed a 2 1/2 to 2 1/2 to 3 Y and 3 inch to a t4 turbo flange in bed of truck. My turbo is a Comp brand that only needs water to circulate no oil lines too deal with. Been running it for 3 years now and haven't finished the exhaust like I wanted too but have not installed intercooler just added meth injection and I have ran 10 psi many times and been to 15 a lot only when iam at the track. Drive this truck too the track and too anywhere I like cruses at interstate speeds easy 2200 rpm 3.50 rear gear 28 inch tire best time to date is 9.92 133 1/4 mile 1.58 60 ft I know their more in it ill try to post pict ures good luck keep up the good work good luck with your build.
Slow and steady progress. Everything is now in the bed and mounted. Just need to run the water lines to the IC. BTW, the Ice/water tank in the back corner was bought from Chiseled Performance. He builds these to order and he did an awesome job. I wanted to give him a good plug here. Yes I paid for it LOL.. 350 shipped was a good deal. I made the IC brackets myself. Welds aren't pretty with my spool gun but hey, it will hold up fine. I also tipped the IC to allow the inlet pipe from the turbo to be as straight as possible. I need to take the IC to have another bung installed for the outlet so it allows it to completely fill with water. I wont weld that myself. I really need a TIG welder but hate to pull that $2k trigger right now.
I also have the cold pipe ran through the cab now up to the front firewall. The original plan to take it through right behind the front tire has me in a bind. It hits the tire. So its being routed this weekend up under the dash.
You might need to get an insulated case or something for that ice box. The alum ICE boxes sweat like a **** and water the track down, esp in a pickup bed like that.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 02-13-2017 at 09:57 PM.
Good call on that. I didn't even think about it but it would have taken 5 minutes once ice is in it to figure it out. Do you feel the IC might condensate as well? I don't think it will hurt to wrap it as well
Few buddies are using the insulated food bags with great results for the tank and the IC. Both will sweat like crazy. Sealing the bed area off with a drain plug might be easier. Makes a mess no matter what you do... even the charge pipe sweats.
That's a good idea as well svslow. I am going to look at stick on type insulation materials. I want whatever I use to be stuck to the parts. Like sound matting.
Almost done. Ice tank is insulated. IC still needs to be wrapped and 1 bung added to make it actually fill up. Its not designed to be laid on its side like it is. Cold side pipe is complete. Don't go hating on my aluminum welding. I don't have a TIG welder and am using a spool gun on my Miller MIG welder. Sucks really but it works. Meth system is installed. I did have to get a new elbow. The one I had was too long and it didn't give me enough room to get the pipe installed. All that is needed is to install the carpet, complete the wiring for the lights, and install seats and belts. Just emailed Pat G to see when he can get me in for the tuning. I'm going to see if I can get lucky and be able to race the race coming up in May. I don't have time to be at the race in about 10 days from now. I tried but just couldn't get it done in time.
Well, after emailing Pat G, it looks like he does not mess with anything other than GM OEM systems. So I have spoken to Henderson in New Braunfels and he can get me set up. I am hoping to be ready for him in the next few weeks.
went for the first drive today, just up the street and back. It needs tuning badly and I am clueless. HA. It falls on its face with too quick opening the throttle. I didn't get above 2k rpm. Just wanted to be sure it runs. So I am calling Henderson Performance tomorrow to see when he can get to it. I also need to get a new converter in the trany before going to the dyno. It will push trough the Hughes it has now. I got the lights working except for the blinkers. Used the diagram I was given on the forums here but didn't work. I'll check more into that later. I am trying to make it for the Dirty South No prep race the second weekend in May. I want to run in the True Street class and maybe a truck class.
Only thing left on the interior is plugging the holes which I have the glove box cover, air vents, speaker grills ect. Just haven't put them in yet in case I need to pull the dash again for more wiring.
I thought that gold box was supposed to be fairly easy to tune? I get that you haven't done it before, but with what your looking to do, your not going to just throw 1 tune in it, and leave it, you will have to tweak it every time you run it, and dial in certain things, for certain conditions. I do get wanting a "solid" base tune done, but IMO I have found it is best to get someone to look over what you have done, and have them help you along rather than just having someone do it, and then not having a clue about what to tweak later. JMO, don't take offense.
Glad to see you got it together and that it made a roll down the road!
10-12-2016, 01:11 PM
