I need guidance for a 600 rwhp naturally aspirated lt1 383 running on premiu
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Teching In
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I need guidance for a 600 rwhp naturally aspirated lt1 383 running on premiu Hey, I'm currently driving around in a 350 lt1 in a 97 firebird. It's a stock block running on 62 thousand miles, require guidance and a parts list. Also don't treat this thread as a pure motor question, I also need help with finding a auto trans and a rear end capable of using and handling the high horsepower. The project will take me a while and allot of money, we'll pretend my budget on the motor is 10 grand. I'm new to this game so thank you
Not gonna happen with an lt1 in anything you would want to ever drive and definitely not on 93 octane. You would be better off going heads, cam, intake ls7...cheaper, more streetable and would meet your goals (well, maybe not rwhp through an auto but it would be mid to high 5xx's).
A 600rwhp N/A 383 LT1 on pump gas ain't happening especially through an automatic. I would either be more realistic with your N/A rwhp goals given your parameters or consider nitrous or forced induction if you're adamant about making 600rwhp.
Assuming a 600rwhp car...
For a rear end you're gonna want at least an 8.5" 12 bolt and maybe more preferably a 9" or Dana S60 or the like.
For the auto trans you're gonna want a 4l80E, TH400 or the like.
EDIT: Your profile says your 18 years old...do you even have the experience needed to drive and properlyhandle a car with anything even remotely close to 600rwhp? When I was in high school my <300rwhp LT1 got me into ALOT of trouble and I'm lucky to be alive. A 600rwhp car to a new driver is a quick way to end up in a casket, I'd work your way up to that.
Assuming a 600rwhp car...
For a rear end you're gonna want at least an 8.5" 12 bolt and maybe more preferably a 9" or Dana S60 or the like.
For the auto trans you're gonna want a 4l80E, TH400 or the like.
EDIT: Your profile says your 18 years old...do you even have the experience needed to drive and properlyhandle a car with anything even remotely close to 600rwhp? When I was in high school my <300rwhp LT1 got me into ALOT of trouble and I'm lucky to be alive. A 600rwhp car to a new driver is a quick way to end up in a casket, I'd work your way up to that.
Last edited by StealthFormula; Apr 18, 2017 at 10:08 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo In the 500's is still dreaming especially when we're talking an automatic car. A stalled auto absorbs a lot of power and is no dyno queen. 500+rwhp in an N/A stroker LT1 has been done before and can be done but the ones I know of have not been street cars and are very well thought out builds. To get an automatic car with an N/A stroker motor to meet or exceed 500rwhp is going to require a lot of compression, excellent cylinder heads, a lot of cam preferably solid roller and perhaps even a sheet metal intake manifold. Streetability will not be of #1 concern at this point. I wouldn't worry about the rwhp figures personally because a well thought out 383 stroker with an automatic that dynos say 450rwhp is going to be a car capable of 10 sec 1/4 passes all day long and will own 99% of the cars on the road.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 11
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A 600rwhp N/A 383 LT1 on pump gas ain't happening especially through an automatic. I would either be more realistic with your N/A rwhp goals given your parameters or consider nitrous or forced induction if you're adamant about making 600rwhp.
Assuming a 600rwhp car...
For a rear end you're gonna want at least an 8.5" 12 bolt and maybe more preferably a 9" or Dana S60 or the like.
For the auto trans you're gonna want a 4l80E, TH400 or the like.
EDIT: Your profile says your 18 years old...do you even have the experience needed to drive and properlyhandle a car with anything even remotely close to 600rwhp? When I was in high school my <300rwhp LT1 got me into ALOT of trouble and I'm lucky to be alive. A 600rwhp car to a new driver is a quick way to end up in a casket, I'd work your way up to that.
Assuming a 600rwhp car...
For a rear end you're gonna want at least an 8.5" 12 bolt and maybe more preferably a 9" or Dana S60 or the like.
For the auto trans you're gonna want a 4l80E, TH400 or the like.
EDIT: Your profile says your 18 years old...do you even have the experience needed to drive and properlyhandle a car with anything even remotely close to 600rwhp? When I was in high school my <300rwhp LT1 got me into ALOT of trouble and I'm lucky to be alive. A 600rwhp car to a new driver is a quick way to end up in a casket, I'd work your way up to that.
302) but never built my own that's why I'm even considering such a proposition and this isn't something that's gonna be done tomorrow so with any luck it'll be there in 2 years. Thanks for your concern and advice
It sounds like you have a great car to start with with only 62k miles. I would consider doing full bolt-ons and then going with a nice heads/cam package from Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction which would include porting your stock cylinder heads. You can do everything for a lot less than your budget all said and done. The car will dyno less than 400rwhp through a stalled auto but will run it's *** off and be a car capable of 11's all day long. With a setup like this you can probably leave the 10 bolt alone and just beef up your existing 4l60e so the performance you get for the money spent is pretty good. If you want more than that N/A then I would go 383 or 396.
Punch block to .030 over, reuse factory crank, new rods and forged pistons. Leave factory heads alone, and upgrade springs/valves. Big injectors, and a big fuel pump. Fab up a single turbo kit or buy one, run a 76mm turbo, and make all the HP you want.
Junkyard 4L80e with a full race shift kit and a quality billet torque converter
Roll the dice with a 10 bolt but know you will break it later.
Should make an easy 600whp and be done for 10k.
Junkyard 4L80e with a full race shift kit and a quality billet torque converter
Roll the dice with a 10 bolt but know you will break it later.
Should make an easy 600whp and be done for 10k.
Punch block to .030 over, reuse factory crank, new rods and forged pistons. Leave factory heads alone, and upgrade springs/valves. Big injectors, and a big fuel pump. Fab up a single turbo kit or buy one, run a 76mm turbo, and make all the HP you want.
Junkyard 4L80e with a full race shift kit and a quality billet torque converter
Roll the dice with a 10 bolt but know you will break it later.
Should make an easy 600whp and be done for 10k.
Junkyard 4L80e with a full race shift kit and a quality billet torque converter
Roll the dice with a 10 bolt but know you will break it later.
Should make an easy 600whp and be done for 10k.