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Well firebirdmuscle got his and let me know it worked well so I went to order it and it's now on backorder. I called them and they should be able to ship in a few days though. Anyways I was looking for other options so I can drive the car, what do you guys think of this, https://m.summitracing.com/parts/spe...FcO4wAodGz8Ecg
Sounds like a few people were running them with MAFs when the 102 stuff just came out. The accordion style might let it flex more like stock but its probably not as strong as the 5 ply 22° one.
You guys that are running with just a coupler do you have to take it off to get the lid off and access the filter, or does it have enough give in it to angle the lid up?
Well I got the bellow on, was a bit of a pain and I might have trimmed about .25" more than I would have liked but it will work. Looks like switching out the filter will be a bit of a pain with the bellow but maybe it'll loosen up some with time. Didn't get a chance to drive it because I had to pack up for a little trip. Should be on the road next week though!
Here are some pictures of the build that I haven't uploaded yet, I don't have anything better to do sitting at the airport...
The IM heatshield on the bottom of the FAST Air box all sealed up to fully utilize the SSRA
7 different lengths of the Manton 11/32" pushrods Pushrods arranged and measured, also a stocker on the end for comparison Rods in Rockers on and torqued All back together (minus bellow)
I'll have to grab some pictures of the valve covers and bellow next time, I also put on the granitelli plug wires since the first startup.
Once I run a tank of gas through it it will be time to drop the tank and put in the racetronix kit most likely.
Well I've been driving the car a bit, I need to use up the gas so it's easier to drop the tank and install the racetronix pump. Unfortunately my tuner is booked till mid July so I have some more time to be driving on my base tune. When the car is stopped and you give it a rev it finds idle decently but when you coast up to a stop sign it hunts/surges in ~500 RPM swings. It also is quite loud when first started, kind of like it's the water pump. It seems to go away as it warms up. I haven't gotten on it very hard yet but it doesn't seem very different power wise from before, hopefully that will change with the final tune.
Startup noise could possibly be the iac valve on first fire up since it goes away when warm. Maybe??
Not that anything is wrong. Mine use to do it. Just adjusting the new air coming into the engine. The final tune should do the trick.
Good point, I kind of remember that it would change tone/volume when cracking the blade on the TB a bit. Is there a way to check? I have the torque app but don't see a gauge for iac.
Any ideas as to why it idles fine at a stop but not when rolling I'm neutral (6 speed)?
Good point, I kind of remember that it would change tone/volume when cracking the blade on the TB a bit. Is there a way to check? I have the torque app but don't see a gauge for iac.
If you have HPTuners you can log the IAC position. But it does sound like IAC. At cold start, it has to get air from the IAC to hold a higher idle speed. As it warms up and idle speed drops, the IAC closes. When it's wide open, it can sound like a bearing going out. I at one point thought it was the power steering pump bearing.
Any ideas as to why it idles fine at a stop but not when rolling I'm neutral (6 speed)?
Returning to idle is the single hardest thing these controllers have to do. It can take quite alot of effort to dial it in. IN one sense, if your IAC counts are too high, idle timing is off, fueling still off, any of these things will cause return to idle surging.
Thanks for the info guys. Fortunately I got a slot with my tuner the first week in June now. That means I have to burn through this tank of fuel, drop the tank, and put in the racetronix pump before then.
My tuner also mentioned adjusting the throttle stop on the TB to open a little more to help with the return to idle, so I'll give that a try as well.
Cracking the TB blade didn't help my issue. When using the torque app I see that tps spikes to 0.4, back to 0, and cycles while coasting to a stop. Any ideas why tps would be changing without touching the gas?
Dropped the alternator nut on the k-member I thought, spent an hour looking for it and still can't find it. So off to get a new nut then test fire to make sure it works. After that reinstall the exhaust and heat shields.
It will all be done tomorrow, then it has a date with the tuner Monday. Plan to pick it up Wednesday, getting pretty excited to see how it is after the tune.
Here is a picture of the tank out of the car, and of the racetronix lot.
Now for the bad. The car is at the tuners for a little sleepover and he noticed 2 issues:
1. The O2 sensors don't respond properly. When I put on the longtubes and ory a few years ago Iwas getting a code for slow switching. After replacing the sensors my tuner ended up just tuning out the code. Well now it's biting me and he is recommending I check the heater circuit so I will have to figure out how to test that back once I get the car back.
2. He says the car has excessive valvetrain noise, not something I wanted to hear after spending $255 on pushrods after measuring all 16 locations with the Johnson lifters and straub trunnion bushings. He said different valve covers can amplify the noise (I have the Holley ones) but that my noise still seemed almost concerningly loud. I will have to pull the valve covers and remeasure. I triple checked so I just don't understand where I could have gone wrong. I set the lifters up with ~.040" preload which aligns with all the posts I've seen about them and Mr. Mamo's recommendation.
I pick the car up tomorrow, hopefully with the full tune it will at least feel more powerful. If not I will be disappointed cause with the base tune it sure didn't feel like I added ~90-100 hp which I should have with this setup.
Johnson's short travels are louder than stock lifters. It's really very likely fine.
I have the 2110's so they're not really considered a travel, correct? I thought they were supposed to be pretty quiet even though that is a pretty subjective statement. My tuner stated that he normally goes with LS7 lifters and has good luck to 8k RPM's so doesn't see much reason to stray from that. He is a reputable LS tuner in the area and has f-bodies/vettes himself and had 7 LS's at the shop when I dropped mine off so for him to call me after hours while trying to tune it makes me a little concerned.
Kinda kicking myself for saving $50 by buying the lifters off the classifieds even though they were still new. Also I bought rockers off eBay with the straub bushings already installed, not sure if that could be an issue. Maybe I need to look into going with the new TSP roller rockers.
I'll have to pull the valve covers and start a little investigation in the valve train. I just really want avoid pulling the heads again.
The .040" preload will be just about cut in half with the Al block and heads at full operating temperature correct?
Maybe take some vids when you get the car back and we can see what it sounds like. When I got mine started it was definitely louder than stock or LS7 lifters. I've ran both. I have Johnson short travel lifters and Yella Terra rockers. There's always a debate on whether the Johnson's are worth it but everybody I read that runs them is very happy with them. When Mamo and I put my setup together he said Johnson's were leaps and bounds above LS7 lifters. I've read Tooley say the Johnson's are unnecessary until approaching 1000hp. Different tuners and builders just like different setups. I'd just pull the valve covers like you said you're going to and go from there. Don't get to worried about it without looking into it a little more. If your tuner hasn't ran them or tuned cars with them before he probably is just not used to hearing the style you have.
I honestly didn't think the valvetrain noise was terrible, I mean I can hear it but it almost sounds like an exhaust leak. I will get a video tonight and throw it up.
I am also working with Randy at johnson, he states .040 preload is good but gave me a spreadsheet to look at which I will have to do once I get to a computer.
04-27-2017, 10:22 AM
