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I understand the fuel system to operate @ 58psi on Gen III and IV LS (maybe other Gens too). It looks to me like from your gauge you indeed have 58 psi or within some error %.
Especially if it holds pressure, I say worth trying to start.
Doug
I wish that were true. Here is a better pic. I am using the stock BMW fuel system. I thought that BMW would do better than 48 psi. From a quick search, it looks like the normal range is 55-60 psi. I am 7 psi below the low end of the spectrum. Stock LS2 injectors are 34lb/hr at 58psi. LS3 injectors are 41 lbs/hr at 58 psi. With my higher flow rate, will that make up for the lower pressure?
The pump may be up to it -- but clearly the BMW system is reg'd to a different point. I run a Deatschwerks DW300 in-tank pump, -6AN lines and the Corvette/Delco filter/reg on the Volvo. 58 psig with plenty of capacity for the stock LS3.
Here's an interesting observation. I just went out and checked the fuel pressure on my 2001 GMC sierra pickup truck with 130,xxx miles. It maxed out at 51 psi at the rail and then held at 48 psi without the engine running. Maybe I'll try and run it just to see what happens.
what to hear something strange? My e60 runs at 40psi. I changes the pump (deatschwerks 255lph) and regulator/filter recently and it is still 40-41 psi.
I sell performance parts and most guys with n/a applications down here wouldn't set their regulators more that 50psi at idling....and that is street racing vehicles.
I think you should run it and see. A good old wideband gauge is nice for these situations but adds up $$$...
Time for some more CAN-kicking. There is a switched power source under the dash in the passenger side footwell. It's the accessory port (cigarette lighter). Switched power sources are very rare on this car, so if you find one, use it. They have a unique bright-green/black color. Ground is usually brown on BMW's.
I also found a place to mount the starter relay (which this car does not have in stock form) and the switched power relay that runs everything under the hood.
They are now wired in and I can crank the engine over from inside the car. Since BMW did not intend for anyone to do be able start this car without going through a CAS module, turning the key does not produce 12 volts in any wire that I could find. If anyone finds a wire that carries 12 volts only when the key is turned, I want to know about it. Anyway, I went the "high-class route (or possibly redneck route, you decide) and installed a start button. Sorry for the bad pictures, the sun was shining in through the window and my cell-phone couldn't quite get a good shot.
That's where I'm at. When I cranked the engine over, it made no efforts to start. The fuel pump cycles normally, I have not yet checked for spark. I'm going to blame it on VATS for now since I have not yet wired up the ALDL port yet and cannot access the ECM.
Had a bit of success today. It turns out that the engine is much more likely to start if you plug in the crank sensor. Lifters are still a bit noisy, but getting quieter each time I start the car.
There was a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust in this video. I'm hoping that's a temporary thing while the newly honed cylinders and rings are getting to know each other again.
Congrats on the start up!!! That's a big hurdle crossed.
Probably not a relevant data point -- but on my stock, new crate engine (GM) - on a cold start including the first one, it's at 60-65 psig until the oil starts to warm a bit, settling into something around 35 psig at idle when oil temp is at 210F. And never any blue smoke at all, even on first start. And the valve train is so quiet, you can actually hear the injectors clicking open and shut.
Thank you, yeah, I'm excited about it. My valvetrain clatter could have something to do with the fact that the engine has been sitting for a year with the valve springs putting pressure on many of the lifters. In regards to the oil pressure, I'll look into how closely resistance translates to PSI, it shouldn't be too far off, but I think there is a conversion factor with the actual pressure being higher than the resistance being displayed on the meter. Anyway, once I finish buttoning up the wiring, which is still going to be a while since I am learning as I go, Ill run it through some full heat cycles and see how it does. Lol, right now the whole car looks like it's on life support with all the wires running everywhere.
My misunderstanding - thought I was seeing a psig reading. Buddy who recently brought '68 XKE back from 11 years of sitting. Amazing what a slug of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase did to quiet valvetrain over 100 miles or so. Based on manufacture date, my "new" crate engine had been sitting for 22 months before start up...
No worries. It's all good. I think you made the smarter decision in using a crate engine. You don't have the stress of wondering if some little mistake that you could have made during the build process will end up causing catastrophic failure.
You are making things a lot easier for guys like me who is venturing into a swap on this particular car.
Thanks a lot man!
Congrats on the initial start up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!
I think you made the smarter decision in using a crate engine.
Well - if you're in a position to do it, a lot of potential problems are made easier by throwing money at them. I wanted aluminum block, but didn't want to rebuild or inherit someone else's troubles. So it was an easy decision for me. There is no substitute for cubic dollars! LOL....
You are making things a lot easier for guys like me who is venturing into a swap on this particular car.
Thanks a lot man!
Congrats on the initial start up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!
Thank you. I spent today getting long tube headers installed on the caprice (trying to reach that 500 hp mark), but I'll be back on the BMW tomorrow. There is still a ton left to do, but hearing the engine run sure gives my enthusiasm for completing the project a lift.
Question for anyone who might have an idea for what I could do for my tcc control wire for my ecm. Most cars have 12 volts running through the switch when the pedal is up and 0 when it's down. Some have 0 when its up and 12 volts when it's down. But not BMW. My car has 12 volts when it's up, then when you push it down the voltage drops to 0 and goes right back up to 12 volts while the pedal is still down. Anyone have any ideas?
Question for anyone who might have an idea for what I could do for my tcc control wire for my ecm. Most cars have 12 volts running through the switch when the pedal is up and 0 when it's down. Some have 0 when its up and 12 volts when it's down. But not BMW. My car has 12 volts when it's up, then when you push it down the voltage drops to 0 and goes right back up to 12 volts while the pedal is still down. Anyone have any ideas?
I just used a normal 5 pin relay. 12v out to ecm on 87a and used brake light power to activate the relay to take power away while brakes on.
Thank you. I didn't even think about using brake light power. Guess I'll start researching where the 12 volt brake wires run on this car and wire up another relay.
Thank you. I didn't even think about using brake light power. Guess I'll start researching where the 12 volt brake wires run on this car and wire up another relay.
Funny how you think that 10 pack of relays will be enough until the end of the fist day and your out.
08-01-2017, 03:29 PM
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