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Just in case you have trouble with the Felpro gaskets, keep your stock manifold gaskets handy. I was able to successfully reuse mine with a little carbon cleanup.
Just in case you have trouble with the Felpro gaskets, keep your stock manifold gaskets handy. I was able to successfully reuse mine with a little carbon cleanup.
Ok thanks, I went with the Fel-Pro because the kooks ones looked junk
Those wires and socks should work. As long as the socks separate the primaries from the plug wires they should be fine. The more important thing to remember when installing those plug wires is to make sure they are fully engaged with the spark plug. The rubber provides a suction type fit that give some resistance when you tug on it. You'll need to be able to tell the difference between that resistance and what a properly engaged snap feels like.
Ok, should i also try to re use the spark plug heat sheilds off the delphi wires? Add them to these ngks?
I also need a starter blanket and some kind of heat wrap for the starter alternator wire, anyone have any suggestions to what i should buy?
You can reuse the stock plug shields (I did, along with the DEI boots), but I don't think they're very necessary. They're kinda tricky to get on there correctly.
Ordered these two ebay items, a starter wrap, and some header wrap to wrap up the starter wire. Was gonna just grab them at the parts store but they really didnt have much of a selection so i just ordered online again
I have a jeep that regularly breaks the rear header bolt, I've had to replace it about every 4 years since 1994.. (When I bought it new... )
Tools,
Right angle drill (Small)
Dremel with pointed grinding tip.
Set of rotating collet screw extractors.(https://autofastenersandclips.com/co...nt=19614243271) For reference they look like this can be had cheaper...
Can of "cold shot" (Product for freezing electrical parts when your looking for thermal issues)
Propane torch with small tip.
Can of your favorite penetrating oil.
Using the Dremel grind the center of the bolt so its flat or just a little concave so you can get the drill to center easily.
The extractor rotates left not right, about 4 out of 6 times the bolt walks out on this step. Use the right angle drill with the extractor to drill in to the bolt until Just before the collet would try and grab to spin the bolt out.
Use the propane torch to heat the bolt up to where you don't want to touch it with a bare hand, then take the can of cold shot and spray it in the hole till you get ice. then heat it up again, now give it a soak with the penetrating oil and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Now hit it with the cold shot again.
Gently run the extractor back in with the drill, don't use much power and let the bit do its work, it should grab the bolt and turn it out.
1 time I had this not work ,, I used a left twist drill that was the diameter of the inside of the threads and drilled the remainder of the bolt out, sort of, about 1/3 of the way in it rotated the bolt out..
When I did mine, I had the front drivers and rear pass bolts broken. Tried the left handed drill bit, and then snapped off the easy out in the driver front bolt. Buddy came over with his MIG and both came right out. Personally, I wouldn't be learning how to weld on the heads of my own car, but to each his own. I would be cautious as to how much heat you are applying to heads so as to not risk warping them.
Well atleast i found a muffler shop that will weld the few broken bolts out for me for around 50-100 bucks, so hell yea, they can have at it all they want lol, now I just got to rent a car dolly so when i get around to getting the manifolds off I can get it towed to them.
But another shop i called said it cant be done if there broken flush, he said he tried it and it dont work, he wants to tap them out, no way, ill try this and let him know!!
Mike, sorry for falling off the face of the Earth. I finally got around to importing some photos of the quadruple welded bungs on my V2 headers. The local shop (Hillery Company) did a nice job on the welds for about $160.
By the way, I learned that Kooks bungs kinda suck. Sorry about that recommendation. While you were getting your stuff done, I bought a bunch of bungs from different distributors and found that Yother in California does the same thing as Kooks but higher quality and at a lower price ($5.50/ea). Note the wall thickness variations on the Kooks stuff versus the consistent Yother stuff in pictures below. My favorite bungs are the low-profile, stepped, tumble-polished 304SS bungs from Fab Pros. They're the best quality and they cost the least ($2.95/ea). The only caveat is that you need a rather large 15/16" drill bit to prep for them.
Kooks M18 bungs and plug
Yother M18 bungs
Fab Pros stepped low profile M18 bungs
Stainless Works O2P plugs and M18 copper crush washers
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 08-22-2017 at 12:11 AM.
Well atleast i found a muffler shop that will weld the few broken bolts out for me for around 50-100 bucks, so hell yea, they can have at it all they want lol, now I just got to rent a car dolly so when i get around to getting the manifolds off I can get it towed to them.
But another shop i called said it cant be done if there broken flush, he said he tried it and it dont work, he wants to tap them out, no way, ill try this and let him know!!
B.S. find an experienced welder. Both mine were broken flush, and one I had already drilled and had the end of the easy out broken off in. They need to first weld onto the bolt to form a small nipple extending it beyond the head surface. Then attempt to weld the nut onto bolt. The first one we had to try two or three times before it got a good enough weld, the second came out first try.
"Can't" probably equals "I can't charge enough to make it worth my time" or they dorked it up once and had to buy a head and R&R time. Keep looking, you'll find someone with enough experience and confidence to take it on.
Mike, sorry for falling off the face of the Earth. I finally got around to importing some photos of the quadruple welded bungs on my V2 headers. The local shop (Hillery Company) did a nice job on the welds for about $160.
By the way, I learned that Kooks bungs kinda suck. Sorry about that recommendation. While you were getting your stuff done, I bought a bunch of bungs from different distributors and found that Yother in California does the same thing as Kooks but higher quality and at a lower price ($5.50/ea). Note the wall thickness variations on the Kooks stuff versus the consistent Yother stuff in pictures below. My favorite bungs are the low-profile, stepped, tumble-polished 304SS bungs from Fab Pros. They're the best quality and they cost the least ($2.95/ea). The only caveat is that you need a rather large 15/16" drill bit to prep for them.
Kooks M18 bungs and plug
Yother M18 bungs
Fab Pros stepped low profile M18 bungs
Stainless Works O2P plugs and M18 copper crush washers
Looks good, i already had the kooks bungs just drilled and welded, well see how good of a job it is when their installed to see if they leak.
Do i need copper washers for my sw bung plugs?
I got the plugs but they didnt come with a washer.
Also cant tell in your pics, did u have them added towards the inside of the car or the outside?
Did some more ebay shopping. Ordered a starter blanket for like 17 bucks
Also ordered a roll of ebay header wrap for like 14 bucks. Only got this to use to wrap the starter/alternator wire. Should i wrap any other wireing or anything with it while im at it?<br/>Also what spark plug gap should i use on the ngk tr55ix?
But now i should have everything needed to do it right, i ordered everything people said. Shouldnt be missing a thing
Fuzzy. Theres the cheap 25 dollor weld job i got done. He did them both for that price. There both facing towards the inside of the car at about a 45 deg angle. I had them done before they got ceramic coated. On the bottom pic on the left side of the pic is the one that was added.
Well the owners manual say to gap at .040 so thats what i did, made it to where the 40 thing on this thing dont fit, if it did fit it would be tight, so its probly at 38 or 39ish. What a pita, i never gapped a iridium plug before, that thing was pretty tuff to bend around.
So i picked up this gapper to use instead of the cheap coin style gapper i had. Also grabbed some spark plug boot electrical grease.
Pull the bolt and gently pull. When you reinstall take the dipstick out first. It sometimes takes a little finagling to get it to rotate in properly, but once it's lined up just push back into place. You will feel it engage.
08-16-2017, 02:10 PM
