It's on the passenger side... that I'm 100% positive on, because that's what the DTC code says.

 

After replacing mine with 13111's, i still got codes in the cold cold weather within a few weeks. I had to exchange one of the new 13111's and now everything seems to be working well. If i run into any more codes, ill most likely throw some clamp on header jackets over the primaries.

 

Why did you have to replace one of your O2 sensors?

 

Well, to be honest, I think it has something to do with "luck of the draw". One of the new ones was still switching slowly, so i returned it to autozone and walked out with another 13111. Its been a month since I installed the second one and the codes have not come back, not even immature codes that dont illuminate the SES.

 

What is LTFT/STFT?

 

Long Term Fuel Trims / Short Term Fuel Trims. theyre tables of data your ECM keeps that affect how much extra or how much less fuel the injectors flow. Its the computers way of automatically tuning the carbeurator's pintle / jets.

 

So if I'm monitoring this, is there anything that should catch my eye? Something that would make the P1153 trip?

 

No, fuel trims are for someting else...

Really there's nothing you can look for with logging software thats tripping this code. It just happens when your o2 sensor either gets old, or its simply not getting warmed up enough to switch properly. If youve already replaced it with one of the rear corvette sensors with the higher wattage heater, then only thing left to do is insulate your headers to hold the heat in.

 

Well, if it's dumping fuel because the PCM thinks it's running too rich, wouldn't I see that in the fuel trim?

I'm going to take a look for an exhaust leak, too... I have a feeling that there is a leak on the rear-most part of the car where the headers bolt to the heads.

 

Apples to oranges. The o2 detects wether the engine is running rich or lean and then the ecm adjusts the trims based on the o2s findings.

The problem youre having is that the o2 sensor is reacting slowly. In normal operation, the sensors will swing from down around 200 or so mv to up arouns 600 mv. It will do this a couple times a second. 450mv being the pivot point, the computer requires the 450 mv threshold to be crossed so often before its considered insufficient switching. Bad or just cold o2 sensors switch at a slower rate than working ones.

 

And you think it could just be possible I bought a bum 13111 Bosch sensor and just had bad luck with it?

Man, I'd hate to fork out the $$$ for another sensor, only to have it trip P1153 again.

So since you're saying it's not warming up fast enough, would you recommend the header wrap, too? Where can I find some?

And if the O2 isn't warming up enough, fast enough... why is it the drivers side is operating just fine?

 

How long ago did you buy the 13111? Autozone has a 3 month warranty, and advance has a 1 year, i believe. I would but a new 13111 if I had to and keep exchanging it till you find a particularly stout one that dosnt throw a code. Still if all this fails, go to summit or jegs and try the clamp on header jackets. They go over the smaller primary tubes at the head. These will help hold heat in where the header stands to bleed off the most heat, plus theyre not as succeptible to moisture and road grime as header wrap on the collectors would be.

 

I bought my sensors from a place called O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I still have the receipt, I suppose I could take them back and exhange them.

Also... my drivers side O2 is now throwing P1133 for Insufficient Switching, Bank 1 Sensor 1. So now both sensors are throwing codes. Damnit!!!!

I got my car scanned and logged today... and so far all the readouts seem A-OK. The technician did say that it just looks like the O2's aren't switching as fast as they should (good call GuitsBoy!)

When I get the header jackets, should I replace the O2's again for safe measure, or is that overkill?

 

I would suspect that your problems may magically go away after the header jackets... If you still have a little bit left on the sensors warranty, I would say to go with the jackets first. Especially now since both sensors are throwing codes. Maybe all it'll take is a little bit more heat. Good luck!
-Tony

 

Man, there's so much stuff to choose from...

... I take it this is the product you're talking about?

Header Jacket @ JEGS

Man, those things are ugly! So much for making my engine compartment clean...

Oh well, it's worth a shot anyway.

 

Sadly, yes, those are probably your best bet. Maybe you could take them off again once the cold winter months are over.

 

For those with ceramic coated long-tube headers...Have you had the same experience with the insufficient switching O2 codes on the primary sensors? It seams that most people who are running proper tuning on their cars are having an awful time getting engines running correctly/efficiently with LT headers. Since the cermic coating acts as an insulator the hot exhast gasses stay hotter longer, I would thing the O2 would be closer to the desired temperature range. Also, anyone with wrapped insulated headers experiencing the same thing? Post up if you can.

 

usually the headers are running MUCH cooler due to the increased distance downstream, and the loss of backpressure from losing the cats.

 

Long time reader and my first respond. You guys all have headers and throwing this code.
Well, I have a stock manifold (no headers) and got the same codes P1133 and P1153. I have replaced both front sensor with denso sensor two weeks ago and the code came back two days ago. This is what prompt me to search here. I don't have $$$$ to keep replacing this sensor.
Now since I've been hearing a little ticking on my motor (I thought it was the lifters) this might conclude that the ticking is from an exhaust leak and 'causing this code to be thrown.
Things that make you say, hmmmmmmmmm.

 

I have been using vette sensors for about a year now. Bosch 13111's. No switching errors, they have always swinged at idle speeds. Trims do not go eratic either at idle.

as far as the ticking, check the header bolts. I had one start to back out a few months ago and it created a ticking sound.