LS1derfull

Can anyone tell me why my car keeps setting dtc p1133 and p1153 for lack of switching from o2 sensors? I have changed both of them and my tuning seems to be fine. I need to know if there is a trick to getting them to either switch more to satisfy pcm or lower the number of counts the pcm requires to keep from setting the SES light?

LS1derfull

Ttt ?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Most likely this is all from the exhaust cooling that the
headers have produced. The O2s go to sleep at low
exhaust gas flow, do not respond to the mixture dithering
that the PCM does to try and obtain switching, and it
bitches (your idle trims are probably also unstable and
idle gets a bit "funny" at times?).

You can kill the code, but killing the problem wants more
heat kept in the exhaust.

LS1derfull

Thanks JB, how can i heat up exhaust temp? Why arent more people having same problem? I did seal up Hooker Y-pipe connections with sensor safe rtv, but problem was there before i did this. Any more ideas?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

A lot of people have this problem, they live with it
(kill the codes, tolerate the idle / low cruise mixture
effects). I thought maybe switching over to the
'Vette rear O2s might be the answer (more heater
power so the O2s can "stay lit" despite cool temps)
but so far have not seen anybody say "I was cured!"
after trying it.

Then again, I don't know how many have actually tried
those out. Nor whether there is any way to find out
what the highest-heater-wattage sensor is, or if
rigging the sensor for full time heat might pay off.

Header wrap, higher idle setting, etc. might help it.
And of course we should only be talking about the
front O2s here, if those are rear codes with the off-
road pipe then those just have to be turned off (or
hang O2 sims if you not getting tuned).

Flyin'Brian

"I was cured" after trying it!!!
I've been using the rear Vette 02s for about 1.5 yrs now with no more switching problems. Used to get them all the time.
Fixed the prob for me

LS1derfull

I have rear O2 sims. I was curious if sensor safe RTV could still be causing this problem? And has anybody sunk there 02's in to header deeper by machining mounting bung down? Does this heat up activity?
I will try rear vette O2's, does anybody have part# for them? TIA

Bryan Wilkinson

iTrader: (1)

I have seen this problem every once in a while, mine is an 2002, and would think that I already have those version of the 02 sensors. Would this not be the case?
Thanks

LS1derfull

T.T.T. ?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

If the header leaks at all at the collector it will cause the switching code in cold weather.Also the air pump system can cause the problem.(in cold weather)Out of all the cars I've deleted the AIR systems,none of them have gotton a 02 switching code since.

monodax

You have GM sensors now, The fix is to use Bosch Brand 2002 Corvette Post Cat O2 Sensors.
They also have about 2.5 feet of wire so you will not need O2 extensions either. That is the reason most people use these but it also has a side effect of eliminating most peoples heater codes. I would also note what was said above if you have any leaks they will never be 100% correct and you will most likely still get the codes along with other problems with fueling as your LTFT/STFT will be incorrect. The O2 sensors are highly sensitive to leaks.

Flyin'Brian

No air pump on my car and I was still setting the codes.
The only thing that would work for me was the rear 02s.

J-Rod

Replace fronts with Higher wattage rear o2's, sim the rears...

Bosch 13111 or Denso DEN 234-4087

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/193534-02-s-not-switching-codes-hp-tuners-kill.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/198627-p0153-code.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/183533-denso-02-part-number.html

LS1derfull

Thanks Jrod.

LS1derfull

Well i followed JRODS advice and swapped in Bosch REAR Corvette 02's and car is fixed! Nice job guys thanks to all!

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

My 2001 keep getting the codes and I deleted my AIR a year ago. I just removed the codes with LS1Edit. It does not seem to effect the running.
I have heard of a few people using the rear vet O2's and still get the codes. Adavance Auto and autozone both have the Bosch 13111 for about $75 each. I just did not want to spend $150+ if I did not need to. I am saving for Cam,heads, etc.

Bill

ssjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Just want to add another success story for the 13111 sensors.

I gutted my cats a while ago and since then have had the 1153 code. Also the car was getting terriable gas millage(running rich). Last night I installed a pair of bosch 13111's and this am on the way to work the SES light went out on its own. I loaned my scanner to someone, but when I get it back I will see if the code is completely gone. If not I will reset it and see what happens.

Also as an FYI...I went to autozone to purchase the 13111's and they only had 1 in stock so I stopped by Advanced on the way home from there. They only had 1 also. When I looked in the box it was a different sensor than the one I got from autozone. The box was identical but the sonsor only had a 6 inch long wire, instead of 2 foot on the one from autozone. So I went to another Advanced. They had 2 of them and 1 had the short wire the other had the long wires. Identical boxes again. autozone was $75 and and advanced was $82.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I bought two 13111's on line and both had the long wires. It let me get rid of the wire extenders. It has been a month or more and no codes.
They worked for me...

Bill

Grave

iTrader: (4)

I was throwing Heater Malfunction codes on both front O2 sensors, and I was throwing the P1153 on my front passenger side only.

I bought the Bosch #13111 O2 sensors and tried them out.

It's only been a day, so it's still to early to tell if the Heater Malfunctions will come back, but I did throw the P1153 again.

What should I check for next? Leaks? How would I know if I have an exhaust leak somewhere? Where would be key places to look?

I really want to nip this thing in the butt... that SES light is really annoying.

That and I don't want to do any damage to my car...

SidewayzOZ

iTrader: (11)

Should be able to hear the exhaust leak from somewhere but if you cant then odds are it's where the collector mounts to the y pipe/x pipe or where the header bolts to the motor. Use the codes to figure out which side it's on.