02's not switching codes , HP tuners kill this ??
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
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02's not switching codes , HP tuners kill this ?? 
I have kooks headers and catted Y pipe but I get contant codes for 02's not switching or heating up properly. There working fine , everything looks great but still codes and its really pissing me off. Is there a way I can disable these codes from being thrown with Hp tuners ??
Also the airbag light as it has been removed , can HP tuners make it ignore these ?? If anyone has done it can you post a few instructons
All those diagnostic tests can be turned off (or
turned off the error setting). The ASR/TCS though
has almost nothing to do with the PCM except as
a "timing slave"; the TCS "brain" and the ABS
"brain" are the main actors, the PCM just
responds to the spark retard signal from TCS.
You can vary that part, only, with PCM programming.
I know of noone programming the TCS brain
turned off the error setting). The ASR/TCS though
has almost nothing to do with the PCM except as
a "timing slave"; the TCS "brain" and the ABS
"brain" are the main actors, the PCM just
responds to the spark retard signal from TCS.
You can vary that part, only, with PCM programming.
I know of noone programming the TCS brain
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
All those diagnostic tests can be turned off (or
turned off the error setting). The ASR/TCS though
has almost nothing to do with the PCM except as
a "timing slave"; the TCS "brain" and the ABS
"brain" are the main actors, the PCM just
responds to the spark retard signal from TCS.
You can vary that part, only, with PCM programming.
I know of noone programming the TCS brain
turned off the error setting). The ASR/TCS though
has almost nothing to do with the PCM except as
a "timing slave"; the TCS "brain" and the ABS
"brain" are the main actors, the PCM just
responds to the spark retard signal from TCS.
You can vary that part, only, with PCM programming.
I know of noone programming the TCS brain
You might want to think about using the rear O2's. To do this you will have to get some converters to allow them to connect to the weatherpacks for the front O2's. Supposedly, the rear O2's are of a higher wattage and using them in the front bungs with LT's will resolve 1153/55 and 0153/5 issues as they will not cool off as much (thus, you get an infrequent switching code). I believe LG sells these convertors already.
Just my $.02.
That's interesting about the higher wattage bit.
I've thought that just bypassing the PCM heater
control entirely (somehow fooling it with a dummy
load) and running full time heater power might be
the way to get happy O2s with headers. Presuming
the heater has a decent life expectancy when
always-on.
I've thought that just bypassing the PCM heater
control entirely (somehow fooling it with a dummy
load) and running full time heater power might be
the way to get happy O2s with headers. Presuming
the heater has a decent life expectancy when
always-on.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
I believe J-rod is the one that I saw posting about the higher wattage. I don't know if it is true or not. I do know that people have had success using the rear O2's as described, but I don't know how many have ever validated their tune using a true wideband.
I was under the impression that the rear O2's might work better is because of the "reference air point" being different for the rears than it is for the fronts. The O2's have to have a clean air reference point, and an air channel is built into the wires. They should never be bent, crimped, etc. and the manual says they are not repairable. I am not for sure if the wires on the rear O2's are longer than the fronts, but it might make sense that a reference point for the rears (being calibrated for being farther away from the engine) would suffice when using LT's because the front O2 bungs are now much farther away from the motor.
I do know that the rear O2's cost more for a 2001 y-body. Go figure.
BTW, I get 1133/53 errors. I will be trying the rear O2's next week. I tried calling Bosch to see about any differences in the O2's and they said call GM. Can't find anyone at GM that knows anything.
I was under the impression that the rear O2's might work better is because of the "reference air point" being different for the rears than it is for the fronts. The O2's have to have a clean air reference point, and an air channel is built into the wires. They should never be bent, crimped, etc. and the manual says they are not repairable. I am not for sure if the wires on the rear O2's are longer than the fronts, but it might make sense that a reference point for the rears (being calibrated for being farther away from the engine) would suffice when using LT's because the front O2 bungs are now much farther away from the motor.
I do know that the rear O2's cost more for a 2001 y-body. Go figure.
BTW, I get 1133/53 errors. I will be trying the rear O2's next week. I tried calling Bosch to see about any differences in the O2's and they said call GM. Can't find anyone at GM that knows anything.
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TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 413
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by TXNC5
I believe J-rod is the one that I saw posting about the higher wattage. I don't know if it is true or not. I do know that people have had success using the rear O2's as described, but I don't know how many have ever validated their tune using a true wideband.
I was under the impression that the rear O2's might work better is because of the "reference air point" being different for the rears than it is for the fronts. The O2's have to have a clean air reference point, and an air channel is built into the wires. They should never be bent, crimped, etc. and the manual says they are not repairable. I am not for sure if the wires on the rear O2's are longer than the fronts, but it might make sense that a reference point for the rears (being calibrated for being farther away from the engine) would suffice when using LT's because the front O2 bungs are now much farther away from the motor.
I do know that the rear O2's cost more for a 2001 y-body. Go figure.
BTW, I get 1133/53 errors. I will be trying the rear O2's next week. I tried calling Bosch to see about any differences in the O2's and they said call GM. Can't find anyone at GM that knows anything.
I was under the impression that the rear O2's might work better is because of the "reference air point" being different for the rears than it is for the fronts. The O2's have to have a clean air reference point, and an air channel is built into the wires. They should never be bent, crimped, etc. and the manual says they are not repairable. I am not for sure if the wires on the rear O2's are longer than the fronts, but it might make sense that a reference point for the rears (being calibrated for being farther away from the engine) would suffice when using LT's because the front O2 bungs are now much farther away from the motor.
I do know that the rear O2's cost more for a 2001 y-body. Go figure.
BTW, I get 1133/53 errors. I will be trying the rear O2's next week. I tried calling Bosch to see about any differences in the O2's and they said call GM. Can't find anyone at GM that knows anything.
The best thing you can do if you are replacing your O2's and have Long tubes is to use Bosch 13111 or the Denso Equiv. They are for 2002 Corvette's (Rear's) They are about 2.5 feet long eliminating the need for extensions and they are identical to the stock F-Body. I did just this last week as my Stock 99 O2 sensors were getting old and not switching as wide. These switch perfect and are a direct replacement and you can buy them from Autozone for about 55.00 ea. BTW, The air reference signal is in the base of the O2 where the wires come through. It is critical not to get anything in the way of this and to not modify the wires going from the O2 to the connector as per GM's Techlink CD's. It is really not in the "wires" as you can see from this pic. http://www.jackaroo4wdclub.com.au/techtalk6.html
I had the same problem with me FlowTech LT's and I wrapped my headers haft way down the primarys to get more heat to the O2's and it worked i've had no codes sence I wrapped them ,On some long tubs the O2's are so far down stream that the air going under the car cools the headers down and the O2's can not get up to temp.
I just went and got a set of the Bosch 13111's. Here is a little FYI for all of ya. If you get it from Autozone, they are 55$ and have a 3 month warranty. If you purchase the same thing from Advance Auto Parts, its 75$ and a 1 year warranty. I had to get one at each place.
Anyways. Put them on the car this morning and so far so good. Fit great, got rid of my extensions and my throttle response is back. I'll keep ya'll posted.
Anyways. Put them on the car this morning and so far so good. Fit great, got rid of my extensions and my throttle response is back. I'll keep ya'll posted.
Originally Posted by Randy WS6
Advance Auto will match price Auto Zone
I asked the guy there and he said there was no way due to the warranty being different on the two. I might go back when a buddy of mine is working and see what I can't come up with.
So far, I have about 30 miles on the car and she is running stronger then ever. Everything seems to be going great and no code yet.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 413
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From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by HC02SS
I asked the guy there and he said there was no way due to the warranty being different on the two. I might go back when a buddy of mine is working and see what I can't come up with.
So far, I have about 30 miles on the car and she is running stronger then ever. Everything seems to be going great and no code yet.
So far, I have about 30 miles on the car and she is running stronger then ever. Everything seems to be going great and no code yet.
It is funny you say that you could only find one at each store. I had the exact same problem here in ATL. No store had more than 1 in stock. I had to go to 2 different stores as well. There is soo many AutoZones's around me though it really doesn't matter much. I did check advance but only saw the price difference, I didn't check the warranty but 1 year might be the way to go if you plan on going through them much (Leaded Race Fuel, etc...) I have been lucky on most of my cars only needing them when they get a bunch of miles on them.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 749
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From: Chandler, Arizona
Thought I'd add something to this thread. I just put on LT headers and started throwing the 1133 & 1153 codes. I've been running rich for the last month since I did my cam swap, but I didn't get a tune waiting for my headers to come in. Anyway, since I have 68,000 miles on my 2001 Z28, I thought it would be best for new O2 sensors before my tune this weekend.
Thanks to all the people on this board. I originally did the "ghetto" trick and crimped on longer wires onto the existing OEM O2 sensors. However, by the advice of this board I bought the rear O2's from a 2001/2002 corvette made by Denso. The part number you want is: 234-4617. The leads are quite long. Just to make sure they'd work on the fronts, I called Denso Product Support. They pulled the drawings and said that they are identical to the 234-4087 fronts except for the longer leads. Same element, wiring, etc. Even though they do cost $10 more, it's worth it because you don't have to buy $20 extensions, plus they should be more reliable with one less connector.
Thanks,
Glenn
Thanks to all the people on this board. I originally did the "ghetto" trick and crimped on longer wires onto the existing OEM O2 sensors. However, by the advice of this board I bought the rear O2's from a 2001/2002 corvette made by Denso. The part number you want is: 234-4617. The leads are quite long. Just to make sure they'd work on the fronts, I called Denso Product Support. They pulled the drawings and said that they are identical to the 234-4087 fronts except for the longer leads. Same element, wiring, etc. Even though they do cost $10 more, it's worth it because you don't have to buy $20 extensions, plus they should be more reliable with one less connector.
Thanks,
Glenn
Originally Posted by glennhl
However, by the advice of this board I bought the rear O2's from a 2001/2002 corvette made by Denso. The part number you want is: 234-4617. The leads are quite long. Just to make sure they'd work on the fronts, I called Denso Product Support. They pulled the drawings and said that they are identical to the 234-4087 fronts except for the longer leads. Same element, wiring, etc. Even though they do cost $10 more, it's worth it because you don't have to buy $20 extensions, plus they should be more reliable with one less connector.
Thanks,
Glenn
Thanks,
Glenn
Thanks.
