Lets Talk Sensors. . .
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Launching!
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Detroit
Lets Talk Sensors. . . Ok people lets talk sensors and how do we know if its time to replace them. .
I know there may be quite a few so I just need you to list the major sensors and the one that goes bad the most... I'm having a problem with my car and I'm trying to find out why...
My Problem: when I start my car it runs perfect but after driving it for a wile (or when it heat up). It handles like its miss firing (& kind of sluggish) like you got it in the wrong gear a little bit. I've changed spark plugs and wires so I know it’s not that... I had a Beretta years ago that had a similar problem where when it heat up it would feel the same way. It would miss fire so much it would cut off and I would have to rev the motor before slapping it into gear just to make it home sometimes. (I’m not going to let my camaro get to that point). . . I'm thinking maybe it a sensor that has something to do with air to fuel ratio because it just seems like I'm not burning/combusting all of my fuel . . . but only when driving for 10 mins or more. . I have a thermostat in the car so the engine temperature never even reaches the half way point. .. And I'm just suck on what it could be... this problem is preventing me from driving long distances and I'm really trying to fix this problem before I put the car in storage for the winter. . Please help. .
oh by the way i have a 1994 chevy camaro z-28
I know there may be quite a few so I just need you to list the major sensors and the one that goes bad the most... I'm having a problem with my car and I'm trying to find out why...
My Problem: when I start my car it runs perfect but after driving it for a wile (or when it heat up). It handles like its miss firing (& kind of sluggish) like you got it in the wrong gear a little bit. I've changed spark plugs and wires so I know it’s not that... I had a Beretta years ago that had a similar problem where when it heat up it would feel the same way. It would miss fire so much it would cut off and I would have to rev the motor before slapping it into gear just to make it home sometimes. (I’m not going to let my camaro get to that point). . . I'm thinking maybe it a sensor that has something to do with air to fuel ratio because it just seems like I'm not burning/combusting all of my fuel . . . but only when driving for 10 mins or more. . I have a thermostat in the car so the engine temperature never even reaches the half way point. .. And I'm just suck on what it could be... this problem is preventing me from driving long distances and I'm really trying to fix this problem before I put the car in storage for the winter. . Please help. .
oh by the way i have a 1994 chevy camaro z-28
no they aren't hard to replace you might have to go to an autoparts to get a special socket to remove them sometimes you can get a wrench on there but i know with our cars you probably wont have enough room to do it with a wrench so you will probably have to get that socket
otherwise its pretty self-explanatory disconnect it, unscrew it, replace it
how many miles are on it? if the opti is still origional that could be the problem when those start going bad they can start making your engine run like crap and a lot of times it wont rear its ugly head until it has warmed up a little bit
otherwise its pretty self-explanatory disconnect it, unscrew it, replace it
how many miles are on it? if the opti is still origional that could be the problem when those start going bad they can start making your engine run like crap and a lot of times it wont rear its ugly head until it has warmed up a little bit
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Detroit
Originally Posted by 1994Z28Lt1
no they aren't hard to replace you might have to go to an autoparts to get a special socket to remove them sometimes you can get a wrench on there but i know with our cars you probably wont have enough room to do it with a wrench so you will probably have to get that socket
otherwise its pretty self-explanatory disconnect it, unscrew it, replace it
how many miles are on it? if the opti is still origional that could be the problem when those start going bad they can start making your engine run like crap and a lot of times it wont rear its ugly head until it has warmed up a little bit
otherwise its pretty self-explanatory disconnect it, unscrew it, replace it
how many miles are on it? if the opti is still origional that could be the problem when those start going bad they can start making your engine run like crap and a lot of times it wont rear its ugly head until it has warmed up a little bit
i dont have a picture or anything but all you gotta do is follow the exhaust manifolds down they will be screwed into the exhaust there will be one for each bank of cylinders and being that its a 94 so it will be OBD 1 you wont have to worry about one after that cat
i know you should be able to see the passenger side o2 from up top
i know you should be able to see the passenger side o2 from up top
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2005
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I changed the o2's on my 94 Z-28 and it was not too difficult. Just unplug and turn out. The driver side is easy, plenty of access room for a wrench. The passenger side however is a bitch, no room for a wrench. Buy the special tool, or I used a spring loaded wrench with teeth on the jaws, worked great. Good luck. See ya.
John
John
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I had a similar situation with my '94 LT1 T/A, it resulted on a bad coolant temperature sensor/switch, well not really the sensor but the pigtail/connector, its attached at the front of the water pump. What this sensor does is read the temperature of the engine and tell the PCM how to adjust air/fuel mixture according to engine's temperature, if the PCM fails to get signal from this sensor, it will act as if the engine was always cold, leading to a rich mixture that'll cause a little misfire, over normal idle speed, and even black smoke. Mine wasn't that serious, but once fixed it sure ran way better. You should check for vaccum leaks.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Detroit
i changed it and i'm still having that problem i think its my Fuel pressure regulator because if you stand behind the car you can smell gas.. its running rich and my motor feels flooded at times
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 444
Likes: 1
From: Bahrain
The first thing to do should be to have the PCM scanned to see what realy going on. Some parts like the opti for example will not show up as trouble codes on the scanner when the cap and rotor part is bad.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 312
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From: Romeoville, IL
I had a similiar problem and it ended up bring the stupid azz wires. When the engine would get warm, it would start to break down a couple cracks in the wires. The insulation would basicly loose its effictivness and would start arching. Try to get your car up to running temps at night. Go into a dark *** area (garage), bring a flash light, pop the hood and look for flashing light coming from the heads or opti or coil. Trust me don't rule out the wires. See if they are arching, it will missfire and the o2 sensors will see the lean mixture and will throw more fuel in. That's why you smell the raw fuel.
Mike
Mike