Wilwoods installed...
Wilwoods installed... What:
Wilwood Part Numbers:
140-7763 Front Superlie 6 Piston 13" Two Piece Rotor Brake Kit
http://wilwood.com/PDF/ds446.pdf
140-6745 Rear Forged Billet Dynalite 4 piston caliper w/ internal parking brake
http://wilwood.com/PDF/ds408.pdf
You will also need Wilwood part numbers:
220-6746 Front SS braided line kit
220-6856 Rear SS braided line kit
Tools needed:
7/16", 14mm, 15mm, 18mm Socket
7/16", 12mm, 13mm, 14mm Combination Wrench
Measuring Device (Machienist ruller)
Things to watch out for:
The front rotors are much larger, both in Diameter and Thickness, They may not clear aftermarket front lower control arms when the car is at normal/reduce ride height. My BMR front lower A-Arms needed to be clearanced in order to fit. This was easily accomplished with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel.
One thing to watch out for is spacing, You need to make sure that the Caliper is centered on the rotor. The kits include shims that are placed between the caliper and mount. Mine used two shims on the side to side and verticle adjustment on the front and two shims for the side to side on the rear.
Other than that, they bolt right on..
So far the only negative to the kit is the difference of the finishes on the front and rear calipers. The fronts are a smooth anodized (almost glossy) finish and the rears are a very flat textured finish. Both do have the Wilwood logos.
The Fronts will require to use of a 17" or larger front wheel, my 17X9" SS ZR1's fit without a problem. The rears will pretty much clear ANY 15" or larger wheel as they set the caliper further towards the center of the car. The caliper is over an inch inset from the face of the wheel flange.
Rears:
Fronts:
Completed Project:
Wilwood Part Numbers:
140-7763 Front Superlie 6 Piston 13" Two Piece Rotor Brake Kit
http://wilwood.com/PDF/ds446.pdf
140-6745 Rear Forged Billet Dynalite 4 piston caliper w/ internal parking brake
http://wilwood.com/PDF/ds408.pdf
You will also need Wilwood part numbers:
220-6746 Front SS braided line kit
220-6856 Rear SS braided line kit
Tools needed:
7/16", 14mm, 15mm, 18mm Socket
7/16", 12mm, 13mm, 14mm Combination Wrench
Measuring Device (Machienist ruller)
Things to watch out for:
The front rotors are much larger, both in Diameter and Thickness, They may not clear aftermarket front lower control arms when the car is at normal/reduce ride height. My BMR front lower A-Arms needed to be clearanced in order to fit. This was easily accomplished with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel.
One thing to watch out for is spacing, You need to make sure that the Caliper is centered on the rotor. The kits include shims that are placed between the caliper and mount. Mine used two shims on the side to side and verticle adjustment on the front and two shims for the side to side on the rear.
Other than that, they bolt right on..
So far the only negative to the kit is the difference of the finishes on the front and rear calipers. The fronts are a smooth anodized (almost glossy) finish and the rears are a very flat textured finish. Both do have the Wilwood logos.
The Fronts will require to use of a 17" or larger front wheel, my 17X9" SS ZR1's fit without a problem. The rears will pretty much clear ANY 15" or larger wheel as they set the caliper further towards the center of the car. The caliper is over an inch inset from the face of the wheel flange.
Rears:
Fronts:
Completed Project:
Last edited by Ryan K; May 2, 2008 at 12:17 PM.
Caliper Dust Boots
This is a rubber concertina style boot which snaps into the caliper around the piston or pistons and onto the piston protrusion itself. This “bellows” configuration allows the piston to move in and out of the caliper without contamination from the environment. Road grime, dirt and especially moisture can corrode production type caliper pistons leading to premature failure of the piston seals rendering the caliper inoperable.
Vehicle manufacturers typically design their products around a minimum criteria list which almost never includes special materials for components such as caliper pistons. Many production style caliper pistons are therefore aluminum or other easily corrodible metals for obvious reasons, not least of which is cost. It is less expensive by far to make aluminum pistons and rubber boots than to make stainless steel pistons for example. A huge percentage of production car calipers HAVE to have dust boots or they will not last to the end of the warranty.
Aside from some of the obvious weight and capacity drawbacks of production calipers, dust boots can be a hazard to high performance drivers. Brake components are designed to convert kinetic energy (inertia of the moving vehicle) to heat energy and then dissipate that heat. The heating and cooling cycle occurs with higher frequency under spirited, or race driving conditions where it is not unusual to develop enough heat to make rotors glow red hot. Radiant and conducted heat developed under hard driving conditions can easily heat the calipers to the point where the brake fluid boils and the boots burn. Dust boots are not installed on true racing calipers.
The best solution for safe and reliable high performance calipers is to eliminate the rubber boots and build pistons from good quality, non-corroding stainless steel. Such calipers are built by Wilwood Engineering and other quality companies. Precision Brakes Company has been supplying Wilwood calipers for high performance street and race use for nearly 19 years without complaint. Our experience has been that companies who do build aftermarket calipers with dust boots make an issue of this fact to justify the exorbitant cost of their products.
This is a rubber concertina style boot which snaps into the caliper around the piston or pistons and onto the piston protrusion itself. This “bellows” configuration allows the piston to move in and out of the caliper without contamination from the environment. Road grime, dirt and especially moisture can corrode production type caliper pistons leading to premature failure of the piston seals rendering the caliper inoperable.
Vehicle manufacturers typically design their products around a minimum criteria list which almost never includes special materials for components such as caliper pistons. Many production style caliper pistons are therefore aluminum or other easily corrodible metals for obvious reasons, not least of which is cost. It is less expensive by far to make aluminum pistons and rubber boots than to make stainless steel pistons for example. A huge percentage of production car calipers HAVE to have dust boots or they will not last to the end of the warranty.
Aside from some of the obvious weight and capacity drawbacks of production calipers, dust boots can be a hazard to high performance drivers. Brake components are designed to convert kinetic energy (inertia of the moving vehicle) to heat energy and then dissipate that heat. The heating and cooling cycle occurs with higher frequency under spirited, or race driving conditions where it is not unusual to develop enough heat to make rotors glow red hot. Radiant and conducted heat developed under hard driving conditions can easily heat the calipers to the point where the brake fluid boils and the boots burn. Dust boots are not installed on true racing calipers.
The best solution for safe and reliable high performance calipers is to eliminate the rubber boots and build pistons from good quality, non-corroding stainless steel. Such calipers are built by Wilwood Engineering and other quality companies. Precision Brakes Company has been supplying Wilwood calipers for high performance street and race use for nearly 19 years without complaint. Our experience has been that companies who do build aftermarket calipers with dust boots make an issue of this fact to justify the exorbitant cost of their products.
Ryan, Great looking install !! I'm confused why you had to cut the bottom of the BMR A-arm to fit ? I have the exact same setup on the front of my 96 WS6 with 2002 LS1 spindles & LS1 Wilwood front 6 piston, 2 piece rotor kit. I'm wondering why mine cleared no problem, what different between are 2 situations. Just curious, first I have heard of that problem.
Here's my front setup:
Here's the rear setup: (4 piston, 2 piece) I'm not sure if 15" rims will fit this particular setup. I have been trying to figure the spacing and offset to see if a 15 can work. What is the part # on the rear kit you have ?
Here's my front setup:
Here's the rear setup: (4 piston, 2 piece) I'm not sure if 15" rims will fit this particular setup. I have been trying to figure the spacing and offset to see if a 15 can work. What is the part # on the rear kit you have ?
Have you put it on the ground & driven it yet? Drive it around a little and you'll see that when the suspension is loaded that they rub... Actually just set it down and then crawl under and look at the clearence.
Ryan
Ryan
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TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: Down Under
What have you done to control brake bias???
that is the NO. 1 thing that most people overlook when installing larger diameter rotors and calipers with greater pistion area. You need to be sure the areas are balanced otherwise you may be hurting your braking performance instead of helping it.. (i.e. locking up front or rear way before the others lock up)
that is the NO. 1 thing that most people overlook when installing larger diameter rotors and calipers with greater pistion area. You need to be sure the areas are balanced otherwise you may be hurting your braking performance instead of helping it.. (i.e. locking up front or rear way before the others lock up)
H8LUZN, I won't know if I need a brake bias until I actually really run these brakes hard, which I have not done yet. The swaybar always looks like its upside down on a MOSER 12 bolt until you get the correct endlinks to reposition the bar correctly. I did not have on the correct endlinks in that picture.
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: Down Under
Originally Posted by 96silverram
H8LUZN, I won't know if I need a brake bias until I actually really run these brakes hard, which I have not done yet. The swaybar always looks like its upside down on a MOSER 12 bolt until you get the correct endlinks to reposition the bar correctly. I did not have on the correct endlinks in that picture.
I see alot of guys add large front rotors/calipers and then do nothing to the rear... now that totally changes your brake bias and may effectively give you WORSE braking capability than stock because your underutilizing the rear. But then again, the proper brake bias is never constant and totally depends on your optimum lateral deceleration, weight transfer, and coefficient of friction of your tires. For example, in the rain (low mu) you would want a brake bias closer to 50/50 and then for road racing with sticky tires (high mu) you would want to shift it significantly forward... The stock settings are deemed a good comprimise for road going vehicles
I will say, the car does look beautiful though
Last edited by H8 LUZN; Apr 2, 2006 at 03:58 PM.
H8 LUZN, I'm not sure why you keep referring to stock rear setups casuing brake bias issues. Both cars that show pics of the brakes are running larger rear setups. Mine has the 12.2" two piece, 4 piston rear setup. So, are your statements just based on Big front with stock rear brakes having bias issues ? I'm curious, all the cars that have a big brake front & rear have seemed to have great breaking ability over stock.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 522
Likes: 1
From: San Bernardino, CA
Things to watch out for:
The front rotors are much larger, both in Diameter and Thickness, They may not clear aftermarket front lower control arms when the car is at normal/reduce ride height. My BMR front lower A-Arms needed to be clearanced in order to fit. This was easily accomplished with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel.
do you have a picture of the lower cup with the rotor installed. Would cutting it weaken the control arm?
Also, are the wilwood's 6-piston the only 6-piston brakes that will fit the stock wheels?
The front rotors are much larger, both in Diameter and Thickness, They may not clear aftermarket front lower control arms when the car is at normal/reduce ride height. My BMR front lower A-Arms needed to be clearanced in order to fit. This was easily accomplished with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel.
do you have a picture of the lower cup with the rotor installed. Would cutting it weaken the control arm?
Also, are the wilwood's 6-piston the only 6-piston brakes that will fit the stock wheels?
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Can anyone advise on wheels that fit versus wheels that do not fit, like my fairly new American Racing TTII's. Now I have WOW brakes with no wheels... The Wilwood calipers hit the inside of the spokes, that sucks.