Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

help just installed new clutch etc and having shifting problems

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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 06:49 PM
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Arrow help just installed new clutch etc and having shifting problems

here's the deal. i just installed my ram hd clutch kit with new flywheel and slave clyinder and the car is not wanting to go into gear easily when trying to shift its sloppy also. you have to put a little force to make it go into gear. please any advice will help!! in the clutch kit they gave us a spacer to put between the slave and the tranny could that be the problem since the factory didnt have one? also me and my buddy bleed the system do the new slaves come already bleed? please help!! THANKS A MILLION...
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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how did you bleed it?

might try to vacuum bleed it
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon
how did you bleed it?

might try to vacuum bleed it
pumped it a few times then put it to the floor and my buddy opened the valve only a little bit. kinda the way you bleed brakes.
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 07:46 PM
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im pretty sure you need the spacer...its the vettes that dont need it from what ive heard....steven try to get in touch with Joe from T56rebuilds.com i hear is pretty knowledgable with that stuff
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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I didn't have a spacer with my McLeod clutch but if it came with it, I would assume it is supposed to be used. What did the directions say?

In regards to the hard shifting/getting into gear = hydraulics problem. If you are running the stock master cylinder, you might need to "drill mod" it. My McLeod adjustable master was only bench bled, drill modded, and slightly adjusted for the throw and it is perfect. What the problem is, there is not enough fluid being pushed to fully disengage the clutch. The drill mod should help.

Good luck
Andy
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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i'd say its a slave problem, most likely a little air still in the system not letting the clutch to completely disengauge causeing the hard shifts
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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slaves are factory bled, try driving around for a couple days (unless the problem is too bad) if you have a small bubble it will work its way out
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by oange ss
slaves are factory bled, try driving around for a couple days (unless the problem is too bad) if you have a small bubble it will work its way out
that would work too, thats what i did on one of my cars that didn't have a bleeder screw
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 01:55 AM
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you need the spacer.
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 10:20 AM
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the spacer is in. im almost thinking thats the problem because it almost seems as tho the clutch isnt engaging all the way down. when im at a stop light in first gear the car wants to roll like the clutch is being let out.
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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Steven take that spacer out and then try running it, its all about trial and error sometimes, i know its sucks...Slave DO come factory bled, no need to bled them! let us know how it goes!
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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You didnt bleed your slave right. The spacer is not the problem, you need that.
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Rick
You didnt bleed your slave right. The spacer is not the problem, you need that.
Details please.....

I bleed by having a buddy pump the pedal three times, hold, i crack the bleeder for a second, tighten, release pedal?

Thanks
Andy
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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Do not bleed it like brakes. The easiest way is to gravity bleed it. Since the MC is at an upright position there is going to be trapped air. This is why they sell them pre bled. Gravity bleeding does not always work either. After gravity bleeding get down there with your hand and vigoursly pump the pedal with the bleeeder screw closed, you don't have to pump all the way down, just 1/3 of the way. This will try to force the air down. Then try to gravity bleed again.

This works best!! If you have access to air, I like to use a cap on the resevior that has a small hole in it and pressure bleed the MC. Most LS1 F-bodys have this cap. Pull the rubber out in the inside. You can apply a soft air supply and have someone pump the brakes slowly with the bleeder screw open. Tighten the bleeder screw and apply just a light amount of air pressure, with someone pumping the clutch again. Then just pump the clutch fast. You should have a good pedal now. Replace the rubber.
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