How do I launch a Turbo car?
How do I launch a Turbo car? I'm crying out for help. I have all the pieces of a great drag car, I just can't get them to come together. I have run 12.45@121mph, and I've never cut better than a 2.0 60' in my life. I have 465rwhp, and 510rwtq, with 400tq on tap at 2800rpm. I just can't get the 'lil fugger to launch. The car is just a 3.8L v6, so off idle torque is non existent.
Here is a complete list of my stuff:
Nitto 555r dr's 245/50/16 <---they never spin on a launch
centerline front wheels with lemans metric tires. (70% solution for skinnies)
QA1 F series 12 way shocks on all four corners.
QA1 front springs
Built T5 manual transmission
SPEC stage III clutch
Zexel torsen diff with 3.23's (I heard these gears are the best with a turbo)
UMI LCA's and PHR
LCA relocation brackets welded in
I know launching a turbo car isn't the easiest to begin with, but I KNOW this car can do better than 2.0 60's.
What settings should I put my shocks on?
My front QA1's are height adjustable. Should I raise them up really high?
What is a good procedure for revving/dumping clutch on the start line?
Here is a complete list of my stuff:
Nitto 555r dr's 245/50/16 <---they never spin on a launch
centerline front wheels with lemans metric tires. (70% solution for skinnies)
QA1 F series 12 way shocks on all four corners.
QA1 front springs
Built T5 manual transmission
SPEC stage III clutch
Zexel torsen diff with 3.23's (I heard these gears are the best with a turbo)
UMI LCA's and PHR
LCA relocation brackets welded in
I know launching a turbo car isn't the easiest to begin with, but I KNOW this car can do better than 2.0 60's.
What settings should I put my shocks on?
My front QA1's are height adjustable. Should I raise them up really high?
What is a good procedure for revving/dumping clutch on the start line?
Well I see that you said your piece of crap Nittos are actually NEVER spinning when you launch.. So.. That only means one thing!
A. You don't have jack crap for power down low
B. You don't have enough gear to make up for the lack of power
C. Turbo lag owns you
D. YOU AREN'T LEAVING HARD ENOUGH
E. All of the Above
I'm gonna go with E...
A. You don't have jack crap for power down low
B. You don't have enough gear to make up for the lack of power
C. Turbo lag owns you
D. YOU AREN'T LEAVING HARD ENOUGH
E. All of the Above
I'm gonna go with E...
A. You don't have jack crap for power down low<--- yeah, its a v6, it has no power down low.
B. You don't have enough gear to make up for the lack of power <--- I've been told that turbos need taller gears, are you telling me otherwise?
C. Turbo lag owns you<--- I'm trying to get around that
D. YOU AREN'T LEAVING HARD ENOUGH<--- that is the point of this thread dude. I'm trying to figure out how to leave harder.
B. You don't have enough gear to make up for the lack of power <--- I've been told that turbos need taller gears, are you telling me otherwise?
C. Turbo lag owns you<--- I'm trying to get around that
D. YOU AREN'T LEAVING HARD ENOUGH<--- that is the point of this thread dude. I'm trying to figure out how to leave harder.
If you're not spinning at all I would add more power before messing with a suspension that's not spinning.
Add a 2 step and build some boost (also known as TORQUE) while the clutch is in....that will make a big difference in the launch.
Add a 2 step and build some boost (also known as TORQUE) while the clutch is in....that will make a big difference in the launch.
What rpm are you leaving at? Other things that need to be told:
1. what are the frt. and rear shock settings.
2. what is the tire press.
3. what is the pinion angle.
4. what type of burn outs are you doing.
start there.
1. what are the frt. and rear shock settings.
2. what is the tire press.
3. what is the pinion angle.
4. what type of burn outs are you doing.
start there.
Well since I was obviously on the right page then my first bit of advice would be to buy yourself a 2-step.. What rpm are you launching at? Tall gears normally do better with boost applications. I think your problem is that you aren't building any boost at the starting line which can be hard to do with a manual car. leave hard enough to make it spin the tires and go from there. if you aren't building boost in the lower rpms then make it spin a little by leaving really hard and that will get the car moving. some cars need to spin a little bit!
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Originally Posted by Mr.Nitrous
1. what are the frt. and rear shock settings.
2. what is the tire press.
3. what is the pinion angle.
4. what type of burn outs are you doing.
start there.
2. what is the tire press.
3. what is the pinion angle.
4. what type of burn outs are you doing.
start there.
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I tried to use HPTuners to make a ghetto phabulous 2 step, by changing the neutral rev limiter to 4800rpm upper limit, and 4700rpm lower limit. That was great in theory, but it actually gave me a 500rpm window of "2 stepness".
THe car boggs pretty bad sometimes after launch. It'll fall on its face, and I'll have to wait for the turbo to spool back up. I'm trying to figure out how some of the M6 turbo guys leave hard and keep thier turbos spooled.
I generally do a 5 second burnout. I would go longer, but the car creeps forward. Boost + vacuum assisted brakes don't get along. I guess I need to buy a linelock if I'm gonna get serious. Tire press is 20psi. I don't know the pinion angle, but it's stock, if that means anything noteworthy to you. Right now my shocks are all set on 2 out of 12. The car bobs like a 54 caddy.
I also want to know what the general rule of thumb is for adjustable shocks. Soft in the front, stiff in the back? I know I don't need to mess with them right now, but when I quit bogging, I will need to.
THe car boggs pretty bad sometimes after launch. It'll fall on its face, and I'll have to wait for the turbo to spool back up. I'm trying to figure out how some of the M6 turbo guys leave hard and keep thier turbos spooled.
I generally do a 5 second burnout. I would go longer, but the car creeps forward. Boost + vacuum assisted brakes don't get along. I guess I need to buy a linelock if I'm gonna get serious. Tire press is 20psi. I don't know the pinion angle, but it's stock, if that means anything noteworthy to you. Right now my shocks are all set on 2 out of 12. The car bobs like a 54 caddy.
I also want to know what the general rule of thumb is for adjustable shocks. Soft in the front, stiff in the back? I know I don't need to mess with them right now, but when I quit bogging, I will need to.
Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
why in the hell would any of that matter??? he said that the car DEAD HOOKS every pass on freakin nittos! I wouldnt touch a damn thing as far as the suspension goes...
Leave at a higher rpm, like 5000-5200 and you will need to slip the clutch a bit to keep it from grabbingg too hard and killing the power down i.e. don't just let the clutch all the way up on the launch. Once you get that worked out a little bit more then on to the suspension. With the qa1's you can try this to keep it from grabbing and bogging. Put the rears at 5 and leave then there. put the frt. at 6 to help keep it from weight transfering. This should help it to easy it up on the leave alittle. As you get better and things progress, loosen the frt. up a click at a time. Hope this may help you out.
Originally Posted by Mr.Nitrous
Did I say to change anything? NO... I am just trying to make sure that all things are in the ball park. If you read the first thing I asked, that will tell much of what is going on. So what happens when he leaves harder then it spins? That why I ask an array of questions to make sure its on the right track. Now back on track.
Leave at a higher rpm, like 5000-5200 and you will need to slip the clutch a bit to keep it from grabbingg too hard and killing the power down i.e. don't just let the clutch all the way up on the launch. Once you get that worked out a little bit more then on to the suspension. With the qa1's you can try this to keep it from grabbing and bogging. Put the rears at 5 and leave then there. put the frt. at 6 to help keep it from weight transfering. This should help it to easy it up on the leave alittle. As you get better and things progress, loosen the frt. up a click at a time. Hope this may help you out.
Leave at a higher rpm, like 5000-5200 and you will need to slip the clutch a bit to keep it from grabbingg too hard and killing the power down i.e. don't just let the clutch all the way up on the launch. Once you get that worked out a little bit more then on to the suspension. With the qa1's you can try this to keep it from grabbing and bogging. Put the rears at 5 and leave then there. put the frt. at 6 to help keep it from weight transfering. This should help it to easy it up on the leave alittle. As you get better and things progress, loosen the frt. up a click at a time. Hope this may help you out.
my best results have been a very high rpm slip of the clutch
move the clutch just enough to get the car moving forward, keep the nose up, when you hear and feel the boost comming in then get all the way off the clutch and you're off.
2 steps break stuff for me.
move the clutch just enough to get the car moving forward, keep the nose up, when you hear and feel the boost comming in then get all the way off the clutch and you're off.
2 steps break stuff for me.
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
From: aiken ,sc
Originally Posted by LT Malice
I'm crying out for help. I have all the pieces of a great drag car, I just can't get them to come together. I have run 12.45@121mph, and I've never cut better than a 2.0 60' in my life. I have 465rwhp, and 510rwtq, with 400tq on tap at 2800rpm. I just can't get the 'lil fugger to launch. The car is just a 3.8L v6, so off idle torque is non existent.
Here is a complete list of my stuff:
Nitto 555r dr's 245/50/16 <---they never spin on a launch
centerline front wheels with lemans metric tires. (70% solution for skinnies)
QA1 F series 12 way shocks on all four corners.
QA1 front springs
Built T5 manual transmission
SPEC stage III clutch
Zexel torsen diff with 3.23's (I heard these gears are the best with a turbo)
UMI LCA's and PHR
LCA relocation brackets welded in
I know launching a turbo car isn't the easiest to begin with, but I KNOW this car can do better than 2.0 60's.
What settings should I put my shocks on?
My front QA1's are height adjustable. Should I raise them up really high?
What is a good procedure for revving/dumping clutch on the start line?
Here is a complete list of my stuff:
Nitto 555r dr's 245/50/16 <---they never spin on a launch
centerline front wheels with lemans metric tires. (70% solution for skinnies)
QA1 F series 12 way shocks on all four corners.
QA1 front springs
Built T5 manual transmission
SPEC stage III clutch
Zexel torsen diff with 3.23's (I heard these gears are the best with a turbo)
UMI LCA's and PHR
LCA relocation brackets welded in
I know launching a turbo car isn't the easiest to begin with, but I KNOW this car can do better than 2.0 60's.
What settings should I put my shocks on?
My front QA1's are height adjustable. Should I raise them up really high?
What is a good procedure for revving/dumping clutch on the start line?
Geoff,
Keep trying more RPM on the launch until it launches, if that doesn't work, turn your nitrous on. What's gonna happen though is once you get it to launch with some power, you're just going to blow the tires off. Those nitto's won't hold the power you have.
Keep trying more RPM on the launch until it launches, if that doesn't work, turn your nitrous on. What's gonna happen though is once you get it to launch with some power, you're just going to blow the tires off. Those nitto's won't hold the power you have.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Ewing, NJ
Get the latest version of HPTuners. There is an option to use the ETC park/neutral rev limiter. That's the one you want, it'll hold a smooth RPM. Put the fuel limiter back up to 7000rpm or whatever. Start raising that launch RPM bit by bit.
Also, I would assume 4.10s would be a better gear option. The top of 4th gear is 117 with 26in tires and if that ever becomes a problem, there are taller tires.
As far as the launch goes, a quick slip of the clutch has always worked for me. You have to find the sweet spot to keep the nose up without bogging down. I was cutting 1.9s with 3.23s on 235 BFGs.
Good Luck, and if you want to fly me to FL to demonstrate, I'd be more than happy to oblige.
g
Also, I would assume 4.10s would be a better gear option. The top of 4th gear is 117 with 26in tires and if that ever becomes a problem, there are taller tires.
As far as the launch goes, a quick slip of the clutch has always worked for me. You have to find the sweet spot to keep the nose up without bogging down. I was cutting 1.9s with 3.23s on 235 BFGs.
Good Luck, and if you want to fly me to FL to demonstrate, I'd be more than happy to oblige.
g
Enter the v6ers.
I didn't mention my spray because I usually don't spray untill I shift into second. I sprayed off the line once, and it blew my nitttos away. Now that I think of it, that prolly would have been a good launch if I had some MT ET's or something.
I'm gonna hit the track on the 18th and try all the things everyone has said. I will try a 5000+ rpm launch for the first time.
G- I'll get that new HPT. I have a local guy that is willing to take me under his wing. If that falls through, I prolly will fly you down here for a weekend.
I didn't mention my spray because I usually don't spray untill I shift into second. I sprayed off the line once, and it blew my nitttos away. Now that I think of it, that prolly would have been a good launch if I had some MT ET's or something.
I'm gonna hit the track on the 18th and try all the things everyone has said. I will try a 5000+ rpm launch for the first time.
G- I'll get that new HPT. I have a local guy that is willing to take me under his wing. If that falls through, I prolly will fly you down here for a weekend.
This is what you need to do temporarily:
Go get in your car, and get it nice and warmed up. Put it third gear at around 1500 rpms. Slam the gas and watch your tach like a hawk. You should feel and see on the tach where your turbo is fully spooled and your powerband kicks in. Let's say that's at 3200 rpms. Put your car in first gear at a dead stop, and rev to 3200-3500 rpms and then let the clutch out fast but only about halfway or where it first engages. Hold and obviously give it more gas to keep your rpm's from dropping. Keep letting it slip until you get going fast enough to where when you do let the clutch all the way out, your still at 3200-3500 rpms. When the clutch is out, slam the gas.
Of course this takes a toll on your clutch after a few runs so this is what you need to do as a fix:
Install low but tall gears. Rev to redline and dump the clutch. You shouldn't bog because if your have a low first gear then it should rev VERY fast and therefore you won't have lag. The tall gears come in because when your turbo is fully spooled at 3200 rpms (or wherever) that's when you have close to peak torque anyway.
I also hope your powershifting (not letting off the gas at all between shifts) because whenever your throttle blade closes, it blows off your boost and your turbo has to spool up again. It will wear your synchros over time so you will need supporting mods for powershifting.
Go get in your car, and get it nice and warmed up. Put it third gear at around 1500 rpms. Slam the gas and watch your tach like a hawk. You should feel and see on the tach where your turbo is fully spooled and your powerband kicks in. Let's say that's at 3200 rpms. Put your car in first gear at a dead stop, and rev to 3200-3500 rpms and then let the clutch out fast but only about halfway or where it first engages. Hold and obviously give it more gas to keep your rpm's from dropping. Keep letting it slip until you get going fast enough to where when you do let the clutch all the way out, your still at 3200-3500 rpms. When the clutch is out, slam the gas.
Of course this takes a toll on your clutch after a few runs so this is what you need to do as a fix:
Install low but tall gears. Rev to redline and dump the clutch. You shouldn't bog because if your have a low first gear then it should rev VERY fast and therefore you won't have lag. The tall gears come in because when your turbo is fully spooled at 3200 rpms (or wherever) that's when you have close to peak torque anyway.
I also hope your powershifting (not letting off the gas at all between shifts) because whenever your throttle blade closes, it blows off your boost and your turbo has to spool up again. It will wear your synchros over time so you will need supporting mods for powershifting.