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diff between true trac and detroit locker??

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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 07:56 PM
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Exclamation diff between true trac and detroit locker??

I remember reading you can get either or from Strange in their dana 60's. So, which one is better? Pros and cons of each? I am very new to rear ends, so I want to make an informed decision when I order mine, prolly pretty quick from tybrn becuase of their GP goin on.

I am buying it for a daily driver, 450RWHP, beaten daily, and track used too. It will have an auto in front of it when it gets installed. Hopefully. If the money doesn't run out first.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 10:54 AM
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From what I know the Detroit locker is nearly indestructible but it's noisy. If you race alot with hard launches in an M6 I'd go locker. For an auto car daily driven the True Trac may be a better option if the noise would bother you.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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Noisy !?!!

Its only noisey when the dovetails reset.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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what are dovetails and how do they reset? Like I said, I dont know much about rears. I know the detroit locker doesn't have clutches, and the true trac does. But I also heard that the detroit locker can grenade if it tries to lock in at over a 5 mph difference between tires or something like that. Could someone please verify this?
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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you can also now buy a "soft locker" which is very similiar to a old-school detroit locker, but without all the racheting noise when turning. Personally, i drive a 9" car with a legit NASCAR locker, and i will NEVER go with anything else. There is nothing that compares to the reliability of a locker with the easy driveability of one. A well set up locker will turn just as well as a posi-type rear.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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let me tell you DONT GET A LOCKER for a street car, trust me, i got a locker in my MOSER 9 and i HATE IT, i am gonna swap it out to the tru trak as soon as i got some cash and throw this locker in the woods.........
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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This is what I gathered from looking around before replacing my diff.

The TrueTrac doesn't have clutches.
It uses worm gears rather than spider/side gears/clutches found in Eatons .
It is said to be more street friendly than a locker due to a softer engagement/dis-engagement. A drawback I've personally experienced (as well as a few others [https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/568520-detroit-tru-trac-diff-anyone-got.html]) is some "slop" on accel/decel/coast. It results in a slight clunking as the "play" is taken up. This just may be the nature of it.

Verdict is still out but I know mines been like this since day one. It is said to not be as strong as a locker but better than an eaton/auburn.

Mine is in a Strange 12bolt behind a 6xx rwhp M6 and has seen about 7-8 passes so far at the track. Launching at 4k-5k on 325/50/15 MT DR with 1.6-1.7 60' @ 3750 lbs. Holding up so far. I'll see what happens when I put a slick on it.
I think it would last for some time behind an A4.

Pics from my blown eaton and truetrac install. (Post# 5)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/507193-what-broke-your-12-bolt-whos.html




Please excuse the description. It's just a basic understanding of how I think it works based off of pics and things I've read.

A Locker has a set of discs/pucks with flat square teeth cut into the face of each.
These "disks" push together and lock into each other to connect the 2 axles while going straight. When you turn or pull into a parking spot, the "disks" disengage and can cause a "racheting" sound as the teeth pass across each other as well as some "lunging".
I think this may have been more of an issue on earlier designs. Once you straighten out the "disks" "click" back together.
I may be wrong on this as I don't have one. The diff may remain open until wheel slip occurs.

This is said to be the strongest diff without going to a full spool.





Auburn ( spider/side gears, no clutches, cones of side gears press into case for posi)


Eaton (spider/side gears, clutch packs)
Very similiar to the Auburn. The back of the side gears have clutch packs rather than the cone.




TrueTrac (worm gears, no clutches) http://www.detroitlocker.com/DT.htm#


Locker http://www.detroitlocker.com/DT.htm#


Spool (Locks both axles together at all times)
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by thechef
let me tell you DONT GET A LOCKER for a street car, trust me, i got a locker in my MOSER 9 and i HATE IT, i am gonna swap it out to the tru trak as soon as i got some cash and throw this locker in the woods.........
dont throw it in the woods. Put it in a box, and ship it to me!


I can understand your resentment though, lockers are DEFINATELY not for everyone.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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holly crap dude! that was an excellent response! So, it looks like niether the true trac or the detroit locker use clutches?? Wierd. Now, who is using what, and how do they like it?
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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For the street, with some drag use, true trac is a no brainer.

Doesn't a locker lock and unlock everytime you are on and off the gas?

I can only speak of what I have (truetrac) and I like it. The people I talked to with lockers on street cars say it made the car drive like crap and it was unenjoyable but still "streetable" I guess anything is streetable including a spool. But the truetrac will be much smoother than a locker and will hold up to your power levels with ease.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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I've had a Detroit Soft Locker for the past two years and it's a part time daily driver, 99.9% of the time you don't even know it's there. On tight turns you get some locking and unlocking but that's it. I'm going to a 408 soon, and it's nice to know that you can dump the clutch at 4-5,000 rpm and not worry about gernading the rear.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 02:14 PM
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running a locker on street last 2-2 1/2 years on street, would do the same again
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by FirebirdStud
I remember reading you can get either or from Strange in their dana 60's. So, which one is better? Pros and cons of each? I am very new to rear ends, so I want to make an informed decision when I order mine, prolly pretty quick from tybrn becuase of their GP goin on.

I am buying it for a daily driver, 450RWHP, beaten daily, and track used too. It will have an auto in front of it when it gets installed. Hopefully. If the money doesn't run out first.
If you are going to an auto simply because you are making more HP, you should look into some of the sponsors, like T56rebuilds. A T56 can handle HP, it it's built correctly.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
If you are going to an auto simply because you are making more HP, you should look into some of the sponsors, like T56rebuilds. A T56 can handle HP, it it's built correctly.
well just like everything else, its all about the benjamins. Or rather, lack there of. The clutch alone is a grand. Then you have to build the tranny. When your done, inconsistency is still the name of the game with a stick. I will admit, I will miss mine alot. But, I think it will be better for me to get the auto, get more consistent, and let the computer determine when it needs to shift. We will see, like I said I dont know if I will like it, but you never know unless you try.
Cody
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FirebirdStud
holly crap dude! that was an excellent response! So, it looks like niether the true trac or the detroit locker use clutches?? Wierd. Now, who is using what, and how do they like it?
i run a true detroit locker, not a soft locker. Alot of the streetability of a locker has to do with the person setting them up. Simply put, a poorly set up locker will sometimes fight you in turns, and chunk and jerk trying to lock/unlock.

Like i said, i will NEVER go to a different rear setup, other than possibly a spool
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