Whats needed when upgrading to a HO alternator?
Do the math smart guy, if it makes 146.8 at 833 rpm and 189.1 at 1000 rpm, then you take into account the diminishing increase in amperage as rpms increase you will come up with approx 166.x amps at 900 rpm. Even if you suck at math it doesn't take a smart fella to know that at 900rpm it will be greater output than at 833rpm. If you use a different math approach, you come up with 157 amps at 900 rpm. Either way, I'm right and I don't understand how you don't comprehend the facts here. Thanks you, come again.
I also didn't "bring animosity" to the thread, RooRnZ28's comments to me brought this all on. I gave my opinion and he gave me sarcastic remarks.
It is kind of funny the one acting like he was going to post some profound resonse before you (oneBADDz) posted started this thread with:
Good 4 gauge will flow around 120 amps.
Good 0/1 gauge will flow around 300 amps.
4 guage will be too small for a 235 amp alternator.
and in regards to oneBADDz's post, anyone with any kind of math skill can read a graph and figure out simple math...in this case it is a graph of what the alternator puts out at a certain rpm. it doesnt take some electrical engineering degree figure that one out. and its just a "dyno graph" of the damn alternator... no need to get all butt hurt over numbers on paper.
and in regards to oneBADDz's post, anyone with any kind of math skill can read a graph and figure out simple math...in this case it is a graph of what the alternator puts out at a certain rpm. it doesnt take some electrical engineering degree figure that one out. and its just a "dyno graph" of the damn alternator... no need to get all butt hurt over numbers on paper.

get it? It may be static on the alternator, but it will vary car to car. On an LS1 without underdrives it comes out to 3. That alternator doesn't drive itself once installed in a car
get it? It may be static on the alternator, but it will vary car to car. On an LS1 without underdrives it comes out to 3. That alternator doesn't drive itself once installed in a carThe alternator pulley ratio is for the alternator pulley, not the other pulleys
If the stock ratio is 3 then this alternator does not use the stock ratio.I still wouldn't have bought that alternator, I would have went with another one that gives more power at idle
I think idle output is one of the most important factors in deciding which alternator to buy. The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The alternator pulley ratio is for the alternator pulley, not the other pulleys
If the stock ratio is 3 then this alternator does not use the stock ratio.I still wouldn't have bought that alternator, I would have went with another one that gives more power at idle
I think idle output is one of the most important factors in deciding which alternator to buy.1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the accessory drive belt
3. Raise the vehicle
4. Remove the positive cable from the alternator by sliding the boot back and removing the nut.

5. Remove the alternator rear bracket

6. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the oil cooler clip.
7. Remove the front alternator mounting bolts and oil cooler clip.

8. Disconnect the alternator electrical connector

9. Remove the alternator
The larger replacement alternator will not use the rear mounting bracket or the cooling duct that was on the original.
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Sep 12, 2007 at 07:17 AM.
My new one stays above 13V at idle and stays there. Big improvement!! Thanks again Whitebird for the installation diagrams!!







