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Whats needed when upgrading to a HO alternator?

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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:56 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
you don't knwo what you're talking about and you brought animosity to this thread for absolutely no reason.

Do the math smart guy, if it makes 146.8 at 833 rpm and 189.1 at 1000 rpm, then you take into account the diminishing increase in amperage as rpms increase you will come up with approx 166.x amps at 900 rpm. Even if you suck at math it doesn't take a smart fella to know that at 900rpm it will be greater output than at 833rpm. If you use a different math approach, you come up with 157 amps at 900 rpm. Either way, I'm right and I don't understand how you don't comprehend the facts here. Thanks you, come again.
I get ~80 amps at idle. Pulley ratio is 2.372. Multiply engine RPM by pulley ratio to get alternator RPM speed. 900 engine RPM x 2.372 = 2134.8 alternator RPM. According the chart he posted, that would be around 80 amps. Back to my original post, I said it would probably do 1/4 of 235 amps at idle. I was close, it does 1/3 output at idle.

I also didn't "bring animosity" to the thread, RooRnZ28's comments to me brought this all on. I gave my opinion and he gave me sarcastic remarks.

It is kind of funny the one acting like he was going to post some profound resonse before you (oneBADDz) posted started this thread with:
Originally Posted by RooRnZ28
hey all... ok i know next to nothing about electronics, so bear with me!
I hope that is enough and the OP, even though he was a bit of a douche bag to me, will take my (and others') advice and do the big 3 in AT LEAST 4 gauge wire. If the alternator actually does put out what the chart says it puts out, I would use 0/1 guage.
Good 4 gauge will flow around 120 amps.
Good 0/1 gauge will flow around 300 amps.
4 guage will be too small for a 235 amp alternator.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:35 PM
  #42  
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haha... its funny you say that because you were the one that was being a jackass in the first place.

and in regards to oneBADDz's post, anyone with any kind of math skill can read a graph and figure out simple math...in this case it is a graph of what the alternator puts out at a certain rpm. it doesnt take some electrical engineering degree figure that one out. and its just a "dyno graph" of the damn alternator... no need to get all butt hurt over numbers on paper.

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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 12:03 AM
  #43  
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I used the ratio 2.372 as well in my first calculation and got different results, but after more research the actual ratio is in fact right at 3.0 as the other two guys posted when they said "divide by three." The ratio right off the sheet is not accurate for calculation of engine RPM vs alternator RPM.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 12:51 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
I used the ratio 2.372 as well in my first calculation and got different results, but after more research the actual ratio is in fact right at 3.0 as the other two guys posted when they said "divide by three." The ratio right off the sheet is not accurate for calculation of engine RPM vs alternator RPM.
You can put any pulley size on an alternator. 3 might be the stock size, but they're advtertising 2.3 for their pulley ratio. I'm going with what they say they use.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 12:52 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RooRnZ28
haha... its funny you say that because you were the one that was being a jackass in the first place.

and in regards to oneBADDz's post, anyone with any kind of math skill can read a graph and figure out simple math...in this case it is a graph of what the alternator puts out at a certain rpm. it doesnt take some electrical engineering degree figure that one out. and its just a "dyno graph" of the damn alternator... no need to get all butt hurt over numbers on paper.

Once again you failed to answer anything. Just drop it?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 01:05 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 95bat
You can put any pulley size on an alternator. 3 might be the stock size, but they're advtertising 2.3 for their pulley ratio. I'm going with what they say they use.
Correct, and you are right. but when calculating emgine RPM/alternator RPM you HAVE to take into account the pulley on the other end of the belt get it? It may be static on the alternator, but it will vary car to car. On an LS1 without underdrives it comes out to 3. That alternator doesn't drive itself once installed in a car
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
Correct, and you are right. but when calculating emgine RPM/alternator RPM you HAVE to take into account the pulley on the other end of the belt get it? It may be static on the alternator, but it will vary car to car. On an LS1 without underdrives it comes out to 3. That alternator doesn't drive itself once installed in a car
I understand what you're saying. I also think we're taing far too much into account, such as belt speed and other pulley sizes, than is needed for this thread.
The alternator pulley ratio is for the alternator pulley, not the other pulleys If the stock ratio is 3 then this alternator does not use the stock ratio.

I still wouldn't have bought that alternator, I would have went with another one that gives more power at idle I think idle output is one of the most important factors in deciding which alternator to buy.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 01:44 AM
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drop it?
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 02:40 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 95bat
I understand what you're saying. I also think we're taing far too much into account, such as belt speed and other pulley sizes, than is needed for this thread.
The alternator pulley ratio is for the alternator pulley, not the other pulleys If the stock ratio is 3 then this alternator does not use the stock ratio.

I still wouldn't have bought that alternator, I would have went with another one that gives more power at idle I think idle output is one of the most important factors in deciding which alternator to buy.
The stock alt pulley ratio is NOT 3 though, the FINAL DRIVE RATIO is 3. We aren't taking into account too much, you HAVE to apply the alternator in question to the vehicle in question and use real data rather than test bench data. When you hook the alternator up to a larger drive pulley it spins faster than it did on the test bench, so you HAVE to use the ratio of the car in question not the test bench drive motor. The test is done on an alternator RPM basis and those results are based on nothing more. Once the alternator is being driven by the larger crank pulley that situation has changed and it is spinning faster at lower RPM. You aren't understanding. That data is not universal for every car, it is a set standard for testing alternator output and then you can't use the 2.3x ratio to calculate engine RPM in your given application
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 07:12 AM
  #50  
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Ian, to answer your question while these guys fight over trivia, here are the removal instructions from the manual:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the accessory drive belt
3. Raise the vehicle
4. Remove the positive cable from the alternator by sliding the boot back and removing the nut.


5. Remove the alternator rear bracket


6. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the oil cooler clip.
7. Remove the front alternator mounting bolts and oil cooler clip.


8. Disconnect the alternator electrical connector


9. Remove the alternator

The larger replacement alternator will not use the rear mounting bracket or the cooling duct that was on the original.

Last edited by WhiteBird00; Sep 12, 2007 at 07:17 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 08:20 AM
  #51  
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I plan on doing the big 3 next weekend with some 0 gauge welding cable

But I still think I need a new alt, stereo draws hard on her...good info everyone
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 09:21 AM
  #52  
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Thanks Whitebird that is EXTREMELY helpful!! You rock as usual!
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Old Sep 12, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #53  
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It's in and let me say...WOW what a difference. My alternator with 176,000 on it would keep the car running no problem, never move around alot, and run my system without issue. It just recently started having problems when warm. It charged up fine and would then drop like an anchor after about 20 minutes in the GA heat.
My new one stays above 13V at idle and stays there. Big improvement!! Thanks again Whitebird for the installation diagrams!!
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