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Whats needed when upgrading to a HO alternator?

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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 06:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz

Like I said, different cars have different setups and requirments. I found what I needed thanks to this thread, and will be buying one VERY soon.

yea, i searched and searched but came up with nothing. glad the thread helped out some people other than myself!


and $300 for an alternator is expensive, but its one of those things that needs to be upgraded. plus it came with a 2yr warranty!
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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i have been thinkin about upgrading my alternator for awhile but i just dont know about pickin something up off of ebay. What is the brand?(sorry if i missed it)
The stocker just needs to go. After I did my battery re-location, and installed 1: Rockford 1000bd and 2: 400-4 amps it is really suffering.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:04 AM
  #23  
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I don't think the stocker cuts it period, especially after a few mods
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RooRnZ28
yea, i searched and searched but came up with nothing. glad the thread helped out some people other than myself!


and $300 for an alternator is expensive, but its one of those things that needs to be upgraded. plus it came with a 2yr warranty!
Where si this for $300 PM me
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RooRnZ28
well i think 150-160 amps is pretty good at idle, but thanks for the input
i think you just wasted your time with your post...


but anyways.... my car is far from stock. with my cam, the car idles at 800-900 rpms, not 500. plus i have lots more things to power at WOT, so this alternator will work just fine for me.
Where do you see in that chart 150-160 amps at idle? Please show me.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:23 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 95bat
Where do you see in that chart 150-160 amps at idle? Please show me.
You're right - it's 45 amps at 600rpm (1800 alternator speed) for that 235-amp alternator. That's why I was surprised that the 200-amp alternator I got puts out 89 amps at the same speed. Compared to the idle output of the stock 103-amp or 105-amp alternator, that's a significant increase. I can sit at a light in 90 degree weather with the A/C on along with headlights, turn signal, stereo, etc. and when the engine fans kick in the voltmeter barely moves. It used to sink down into the yellow area.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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so what is the brand of the specific alternator that you guys are using?
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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This is the 200-amp one I got: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02...temZ8042374986 although last week it was only $250 (now $275).
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 12:50 PM
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I guess you two skipped the posts where we mentioned our cars are cammed and idle at 800-900

If you search that same guy's buy it now listings, he has teh same exact alternator listed at 275 in some listings and 250 in others.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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well i think i am gonna pick up one of these friday then! gangsta!

whats the deal with that? after i did my cam swap my voltage sucks. i mean i know the car idles around 750 but even under throttle it still is barely at 13v with the stereo off. Thats even using a red top optima!
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
You're right - it's 45 amps at 600rpm (1800 alternator speed) for that 235-amp alternator. That's why I was surprised that the 200-amp alternator I got puts out 89 amps at the same speed.
Thank you.
A real alternator will put out decent output at idle as well as full output uunder 2k rpm.

Originally Posted by oneBADDz
I guess you two skipped the posts where we mentioned our cars are cammed and idle at 800-900
So can you read the chart and tell me what the output is at 900 rpm?

I tested my alternator (200A Excessive Amperage) with an amp meter when I got it. It put out 110 amps at idle, which is about 900rpm in my car. That was actually the most power my stereo could draw, too, so who knows if it can put out more.

As I said before, I think buying an alternator that can't put out decent voltage at idle is a waste of money. 45 amps at idle is no better than stock.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by transaman98
well i think i am gonna pick up one of these friday then! gangsta!

whats the deal with that? after i did my cam swap my voltage sucks. i mean i know the car idles around 750 but even under throttle it still is barely at 13v with the stereo off. Thats even using a red top optima!
Voltage regulator in the alternator keeps the battery voltage where it is. If yours is stuck at 13v, your regulator is set too low. Should be 14.4 to 14.8 volts. When its very hot, it will drop to 13.2 to 13.8 usually.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 95bat
So can you read the chart and tell me what the output is at 900 rpm?
Uhhhh, yeah. Can't you?
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
Uhhhh, yeah. Can't you?
I'm asking you so you can answer me and prove your own self wrong.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 95bat
I'm asking you so you can answer me and prove your own self wrong.
you don't knwo what you're talking about and you brought animosity to this thread for absolutely no reason.

Do the math smart guy, if it makes 146.8 at 833 rpm and 189.1 at 1000 rpm, then you take into account the diminishing increase in amperage as rpms increase you will come up with approx 166.x amps at 900 rpm. Even if you suck at math it doesn't take a smart fella to know that at 900rpm it will be greater output than at 833rpm. If you use a different math approach, you come up with 157 amps at 900 rpm. Either way, I'm right and I don't understand how you don't comprehend the facts here. Thanks you, come again.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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Alright guys trying to get back on topic...I'm in the middle of installing mine...any tricks or tips to getting that bastard out of their!! I have all three of the the bolts out of the front..2 for the alternator, one for the bracket with the pulley on it and the one rear bolt (that was a bitch) thank god for stubby wrenches!! What is holding the other pully bracket onto the alternator? There aren't anymore bolts and the whole thing is loose but the bracket and the alternator are still attached to each other...what am I missing...I know there has to be something else holding that bastard on and I can't get them both out without seperating them or removing the sway bar to allow enough clearance. I am gonna finish it up tommorrow so any thoughts from someone who has done this a few times would be appreciated. My GTA was 10x easier...I had that thing out and replaced in 30 minutes once. Damn 4th gens..LOL!!
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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ps, here's a link to the $250 alternator from alterstart that whitebird referenced
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...099219015&rd=1
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:29 PM
  #38  
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Lets not forget shipping!!! $271.99....
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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Mine is still good and I'm just upgrading, so I figure I can sell mine fairly easily and reduce the out of pocket cost for the upgrade
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by oneBADDz
you don't knwo what you're talking about and you brought animosity to this thread for absolutely no reason.

Do the math smart guy, if it makes 146.8 at 833 rpm and 189.1 at 1000 rpm, then you take into account the diminishing increase in amperage as rpms increase you will come up with approx 166.x amps at 900 rpm. Even if you suck at math it doesn't take a smart fella to know that at 900rpm it will be greater output than at 833rpm. If you use a different math approach, you come up with 157 amps at 900 rpm. Either way, I'm right and I don't understand how you don't comprehend the facts here. Thanks you, come again.


well i was gonna respond, buy you summed it all up for me... thanks you jesus!!
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