This is a very good question and with the use of our dyno's gages, I have the answer. I actually have done this test and recorded the readings. Most transmissions depending on where the line pressure is at, the cooler flow and cooler pressure will change accordingly. Minimum is about 30psi cooler pressure with a flow rate .6 GPM(gallons per minute) and max is about 100psi cooler flow with 2.0+GPM. These reading obviously change as the transmissions line pressure increases. At an idle with the transmission line pressure at 70psi in drive, the cooler flow is at .6 of a GPM with about 30psi cooler pressure. As you increase the line pressure of the transmission the cooler flow and cooler pressure will increase. Also when the torque converter clutch is applied these cooler pressures will increase as well. For example in OD TCC unlocked with the transmissions line pressure at 150 psi, the cooler flow is at about 50psi with 1.2 gallons per minute cooler flow. With the TCC locked at 150psi main line pressure, the cooler pressure is at 65psi and 1.6 GPM cooler flow. I hope that my answer was what you were looking for and also that you have a better understanding now. Thanks for the reply. Vince

 

I like to see trans temps between 175*-225*. Any thing above 250* is really pushing it. Good question and thanks for asking. Vince

 

I never take my transmission over 205*, even when drag racing and hot lapping. Having a big cooler helps a lot!

 

Here are some more photo's that I have taken of our in house Axiline Transmission Dyno.


















More photos coming so check back often. Feel free to ask a question or if there is something you would like to see post it. Enjoy Vince

 

I do through away a lot parts when building our units. The local scraper can attest to that as well. He comes by every day to empty the trash cans in the shop. I hate lifting those heavy *** cans. Thanks for the comment Ben and glad the exhaust guy liked what he saw.

 

Don't forget to send your 6 speed friends over to FLT! The FLT Extreme Duty T-56 rocks!

 

Here are some photos of a FLT beast shell assembly.

Here is a pic of the new low roller installed.

This next picture a picture to show you the modified low roller race. It has been machined to compensate for the sleeve and the bearing.

Here is a photo of the race installed.

Here is a photo of two sun gears. The one on the left has the wide bushing. The beast requires using a wide bushing.

Here is a photo of a bad oe shell and a new beast shell.

Here is a photo of an unmodified beast shell.

Here is a photo of the sleeve that we in stall.

Here is a photo of the sleeve and bearing installed.

Here is the photo of the sun gear installed. We use this setup on all level 4 and 5 units.


Enjoy the photo's Vince

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/813148-finish-line-transmission-s-holiday-special.html

 

Here are some pictures the beginning of the trans being assembled. This first picture is of the case bushing installed.

Here are a couple others.



Picture is of the low/reverse piston with the seals installed.

Picture with of the low/reverse piston, spring cage and snap ring.

Picture of the piston in the case ready to be installed. This is the tool that I use to lightly tap it into place.

This picture is with the piston in the case and the spring cage ready to be compressed.

This is the tool that is used to compress the spring cage.

This is how the spring cage is compressed in order to install the snap ring that retains the spring cage.

This is what it looks like when it is done.


More photo's coming of the assemblies being installed. Stay tuned and enjoy the pictures. Vince

 

It shifts flawlessly and has held up to the power for the past few years too. You guys even build some killer Muncie 4 speeds.

 

Here are some photo's of one we just got done doing.

 

We only use Finish Line Transmission for all of our high horsepower applications. Chuck at FLT has built several transmissions for us for cars making well over 700 rear wheel horspower. Here are a few examples...

1999 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
FLT Level 5 4L65E with Precision Industries multi disc stall converter
FLP Resleeved 408ci LS2
Procharger F1 (17 psi)
Dynoed 889 rwhp & 760 rwtq on 93 octane with 75 shot of nitrous



2000 Chevrolet Corvette
Level 6 4L60E with Precision Industries multi disc stall converter
427 C5R
Procharger F1R
770 rwhp 790 rwtq
9.60 @ 140 mph with a 1.38 60 foot time



1995 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Extreme Duty T-56
388 LT1
Procharger F1 (22 psi)
770 rwhp 682 rwtq

 

Here are some added photo's of the back half of the trans being assembled. The next step is to get the rear planet assembly ready and get it installed in the case. As you can see in the pictures in post #72 we have installed our low and reverse piston assembly. The next parts to look at are the rear ring gear and the ring gear support. This first picture is of the support. Note the condition of the bushing surface and also the splined area's of this part. They need to be like new in condition. If they are badly worn, we will replace it with another one. Here is the photo.

The next piece is the rear ring gear. We make sure that this gear is clean and free of debris. The snap ring groove loves to collect debris. Some builders never take this apart. That is poor building practice IMO. We make sure to view and clean every part in these transmissions. Also making sure that the gear itself is not chipped or damaged in any way. Here is a photo of a ring gear ready to be installed.

Here is a picture of the two pieces assembled with the snap ring.

The next part to address after cleaning it in solvent is the rear planet. We inspect the gears for pitting, chips and looseness of the pinion gears. See where my fingers are, this is where the gear needs to be checked for looseness/wobble. Here is a picture of the planet.

The next photo is of the planet with the torrington bearing already installed.

Next is to assemble the planet and the ring gear assembly.

I always make sure to lightly grease bushing surfaces of hard parts and also the bushing itself.

The next step is to get the low reverse clutch pack ready to be installed. The wave plate is the first plate that will be installed into the case. This is followed with a steel and a clutch until all 5 plates are in the case. Here is a photo of the pack before it is installed.

Next we will install the planet assembly into the case.

Then the wave plate, steels and frictions are installed.

The following part is an anti-rattle clip. We as always inspect this clip to make sure that it has not collapsed and is like new in condition. Here is a picture of it.

I always grease this clip into place in the case.

The next part to be installed will be the low roller support. Here is the photo.

The next thing to do is to install new low roller and the snap ring to keep it in place.

The next step is to install the low roller race. This race has been modified for use with our FLT beast sun shell kit.

When fully installed this is what it looks like.

The next step is to install it into the case. Here is the photo of the complete low roller assembly assembled into the case.

Next step is to install the snap ring into the case. It is important that it be installed in the correct location.

Here a photo with the snap ring seated in the case and also the low roller seated on the planetary.

Next we will assemble our FLT/beast sun shell package. I will update this thread with the rest of the rear half of the transmission later on. I have a customer coming in from out of state to pick up his unit today. Got to go. Stay tuned and enjoy the photo's. Vince

 

The next step is to replace the rear sun gear bushing using a wide bushing for the beast sun shell. This is required to add support for the shell and is recommended by the manufacturer. I believe the reason is because the shell is heavier. Here is a picture to show the difference in the two bushings.

I always look closely at the teeth of the gear (bottom) and also the splines that will be pressed into the the sun shell(top). They need to not show any signs of wear. Otherwise unacceptable gear train noise can occur. Here is a close up photo.

The next photo is of the stock beast shell.

Here is a photo to show you what happens to the factory shell. The OEM shell on the left is obviously broken. You can also see that the beast shell is much thicker in this area.

Here is a photo to show you what the oem washer looks like. This washer would normally be installed on the low roller race and would only be used with an oem shell. When using the beast shell it would be discarded.

Here is the photo with it on the race.

Here is a picture of the washer that is supplied with the beast shell.

Here is a photo with it the washer installed. We only use this setup on our level 3 builds.

On our level 4 and 5 builds we use a bearing instead of the washer. Here is a photo of what our FLT beast shell looks like with the bearing installed.

In order to install a bearing here it requires that we install a sleeve to support it. It also requires the low roller race be modified. Here is a photo of the sleeve for the shell.

Here is a photo of the factory race.

Here is a photo of our modified race. It has been decked and bored.

When it is all done we press the sun gear in and this is what gets installed next in our level 4 and 5 builds.

Here is the photo with our FLT beast shell installed.


I will post up some more photo's of the reaction shaft and output shaft differences to complete the rear half install. Feel free to post a question or a comment here in this thread. Stay tuned. Vince

 

Here are the remaining photo's that I promised that I would post of the rear half of the transmission assembly. I believe we left off with the FLT beast shell being installed.

The next piece in the trans for us to look at is the reaction shaft. There are two different styles for these transmissions. The first style is the washer style which in this next photo is piece on the right. The piece on the left is the bearing style. I prefer the bearing style and it is a mandatory piece in all of our level 5 builds. Theses pieces have been polished and are ready for inspection. I look closely at the splined areas of these parts to look for wear and must be like new in order to be used. The bushings in these parts are in most cases are replaced. These bushing are still the originals. Here is the photo.

Next we will inspect the front ring gear for wear. The area where the reaction shaft and the snap ring is installed love to collect dirt and debris. It is good practice to make sure that the part is not only good to use but is also very clean. We also want to make sure that the area where the 3-4 clutch rides is in good condition as well. Here is the photo.

The next step is to assemble the reaction shaft and the front ring gear. Note that the bearing and the snap ring have already been installed in it's proper location. Here is the photo.

If you were not using the bearing style reaction shaft. The washer that would be used instead would be installed and greased here.

The next step is to inspect the front planet. Once again we need to look at the splines of the part where the output shaft will ride. Also the pinion gears need to be inspected for looseness/wobble and pitting. Here is a photo of the front planet.

I always make sure to apply some assembly grease to the areas where bushings will ride. Also I will apply grease to the bushings themselves.


Here is the photo of the planet and reaction shaft assembled.

Here is the photo of the full assembly being installed.

Now we are ready to install our output shaft. Here is the photo.

Here is a photo of the output shaft for a 2wd vehicle. It has been polished and is ready to go.

Note the location of the snap ring groove and also the surfaces where the bushing will ride. They are in perfect condition. Here is the photo.

The next step is to install the output shaft and install the snap ring. Here is the photo.

After all pieces are in place, I make sure to grease the area where the front sun gear bushing will ride.

Here it is, the rear half of the trans is now built.


I hope you guy's are enjoying the photo's. Feel free to post a comment or a question here. I will start the next portion of the front assemblies here in the next couple days. Stay tuned. Vince

 

I have to agreee... These guys are top notch. After my rock-on trans had issues, I went to a stage 5 with these guys and all summer, 15/20 bottles, several 10/low 11 sec pass's, and beating the **** out of the car the whole summer, everything is still good to go for next year. Cant wait as the 2nd stage of N20 is going on the car!! :-)

 

It is definitely one of them that we address. There are quite a few things to address when building these units and it is not something that we learn over night. I have been doing this for 18 years if that tells you anything. Vince

 

We have one in 1000rwhp 03 truck. Parish 8 is the member that owns it. We have a 3rd gen that is making somewhere around 1400. Not sure on the user name here though. There are a couple there's over 1000rwhp if that tells you anything. Feel free to give Chuck or myself a call when you have a chance. Vince

 

I would like to show you what makes FLT one of the best on the market. We put more in our transmissions then most do and spend money were others save it for themselves. There is no cutting corners when it comes to our customers. You deserve it and it is that simple.

1. All transmissions come Dyno tested. Here is the real world photo of the machine we use. This insures us that when you get them they work. No excuses. 100% satisfaction guarantee.

2. All units come complete as a bolt in application. These units are shipped with a bell and tail. As you can see in this photo they are literally new. All you need to do is install them. No BS for the installer to do other than put it in. We feel you pay for 100% of a transmission and that is exactly what we give you.

3. No need to swap tail housings and have to put a new bushing and seals in it. It's ready to go and already installed. Some companies do not supply you with this because it only cost them more money. We feel that all new transmissions require it and you as the customer deserve it.

4. All units come with the correct bell housing installed. Not making the installer do it. These bolts that hold this bell on can be very difficult to get out and often strip out. Once again giving you 100% of the transmission and not worried about saving money for ourselves on parts.

5. All units come with the proper cooler fittings. As you can see they are new. Old fittings can leak and cause your new trans to fail due to lack of oil. Once again giving the installer 100% of the transmission.

6. All units come with the proper linkage shafts in them. I get calls all the time from guy's that buy rebuilt units with the wrong ones installed. Their shifters do not line up properly or will not work at all.

7. All units come with valve bodies that have been fully disassemble and checked for proper tolerances. It's the only way to do it in my opinion. These valve bodies come with the trans go hd-2 kit installed. Not a low budget in house kit that costs a couple dollars. We spend money on our units and give it right back to you.

8. All units come with new solenoids and internal harnesses installed on the valve body. Old electronics could be the reason why the last trans failed. We like to eliminate the chance of failure. Once again giving you more for your money.

9. All units come with new clutches and bands. Not just what came out of the core that we built for you. Most companies reuse these.




10. All transmissions come with newly refreshed pumps. Surfaced machined with new internal components and new oversize pressure regulator valves. We do this to eliminate all cross leaks greatly reducing transmission failures.

11. All units come with new upgraded FLT beast sun shells. This is not a normal beast shell in our level 4 and 5 builds. It comes with a bearing and sleeve for added quality/strength.

12. All units come with new wide bushing were available. This gives your transmission added strength and support.


There are many more things that we do. Take a look at our build sheets and compare them to the competition when purchasing a unit. There is a lot of marketing scams out there that make things look better then they really are. At FLT we fully go through your unit and do not cut corners in order to save us money. I personally guarantee it. Look at it like food. Why have peanut butter and jelly when you can have prime rib. Vince

 

Funny that you say that. I have a competitor's trans on the bench right now. It's funny what some companies call a new high performance unit. I will not post the name of the company so don't even ask. The customer lives here in Chicago and was told this was a new unit. He came to us to have a trans brake installed and wanted to make sure that he had got what he paid for. The unit had not been installed, but he asked that I look it over while I was in there. Good thing he brought it in because I found two serious issues with it. One bushing being installed incorrectly and another not there at all. This unit had failure written all over it. It had a used separator plate in it with one of the seats for a check ball that was very worn. It had new clutches in it but not a brand that I would use. Used solenoids and just a **** poor build in my opinion. Like I said, we go all out in our builds and do not cut corners. You guy's get what you pay for with FLT. Companies like this one need a good warranty with a product like this. This thing probably would not have made it 100 miles. I'm sure it would have been warranted but would have been blamed on a bad part not the builder. You guy's would freak if you seen the things I have seen in 18 years in this business. All I can say is buyer beware. Stuff like this just does not fly at our shop. Vince