Need help building a bottem end.
Need help building a bottem end. I want to get a LE2 H/c Package but he told me i would need to build the bottem end b/c that set up shifts at 6400-6600 RPM...
So.. I'm gonna need help gathering what parts I need.
So.. I'm gonna need help gathering what parts I need.
not everyone has a built bottom end for the le2 but if you want to do a 355. speed pro pistons, eagle rods, stock crank, cleviette 77 bearings and you should be good if you doint all motor get the pistons domed to 11:1 compression
For a budget built 355 build I would use the following parts:
-stock crank
-Scat part #2-ICR6000-7/16 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...25&CtgID=21452
-Mahle Piston's & rings part # SBC250030F05 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=16076&CtgID=
-Clevite P-series rod bearings # CB-663P
-Clevite P-series main bearings # MS909P http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rod-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-ARP main bolts for strength http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-balance the engine $150-$200
-Zero deck your block $120-$175
-Torque plate hone the block (est. $15 per cylinder)
This should net you 11.17:1 compression with a 58cc head and a 4.060" bore head gasket with a .040" compressed thickness.
-stock crank
-Scat part #2-ICR6000-7/16 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...25&CtgID=21452
-Mahle Piston's & rings part # SBC250030F05 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=16076&CtgID=
-Clevite P-series rod bearings # CB-663P
-Clevite P-series main bearings # MS909P http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rod-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-ARP main bolts for strength http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-balance the engine $150-$200
-Zero deck your block $120-$175
-Torque plate hone the block (est. $15 per cylinder)
This should net you 11.17:1 compression with a 58cc head and a 4.060" bore head gasket with a .040" compressed thickness.
Last edited by 1997bird; Dec 6, 2007 at 03:32 AM.
Trending Topics
i had the same kind of setup 355 but i had forged speed pro pistons, gm pink rods and the rings were gaped for 200 shot. 11 to 1 compression which is good for all motor which i was going for with a spray once in a while
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Southern Maryland
For a budget built 355 build I would use the following parts:
-stock crank
-Scat part #2-ICR6000-7/16 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...25&CtgID=21452
-Mahle Piston's & rings part # SBC250030F05 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=16076&CtgID=
-Clevite P-series rod bearings # CB-663P
-Clevite P-series main bearings # MS909P http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rod-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-ARP main bolts for strength http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-balance the engine $150-$200
-Zero deck your block $120-$175
-Torque plate hone the block (est. $15 per cylinder)
This should net you 11.17:1 compression with a 58cc head and a 4.060" bore head gasket with a .040" compressed thickness.
-stock crank
-Scat part #2-ICR6000-7/16 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...25&CtgID=21452
-Mahle Piston's & rings part # SBC250030F05 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=16076&CtgID=
-Clevite P-series rod bearings # CB-663P
-Clevite P-series main bearings # MS909P http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rod-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-ARP main bolts for strength http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-balance the engine $150-$200
-Zero deck your block $120-$175
-Torque plate hone the block (est. $15 per cylinder)
This should net you 11.17:1 compression with a 58cc head and a 4.060" bore head gasket with a .040" compressed thickness.
Some notes: Always keep your stock windage tray or other proven tray.
Replace the oil pump relief spring with a high pressure version and your bottom end will live a long and happy life.
Its hard to beat the stock pan for quaity and function.
I spin to 6800 and beyond and have been doing that for about 5 years on my stock bottom 350LT1 which only until recently received fresh Mahle bearings.
Detonation is what kills the bottom end on these things (I my opinion). Not rpm.
I always run the very best gasoline available and more octane than needed which has really been key to engine longevity. (also go easy on the WOT spark timing).
Karl Ellwein
Last edited by Karl Ellwein; Dec 8, 2007 at 02:42 PM.
I'm going with a Fully forged 383 short block that is Balanced, bored .030", honed, magnafluxed, align bored, splayed, decked to zero, and all arp bolts, Forged Eagle 4340 5.7" rods, Forged Sealed power pistons (10.76:1 with 64 cc head and 11.55:1 with 58 cc head) and either an Eagle or Scat 4340 forged Crankshaft, plasmamoly rings and clevite 77 brgs., all new and ready to go for $3100.00. should be around 11.7:1 compression with the block being decked and the Head gaskets being .39" at quench... If ya need some part #'s I could always get some....LMK Good Luck. Also I have some info on doing a 396 Rotating assembly as well. I've got an article on how to build one and get 550+ HP and 500 Ft. Lbs of tq. using a small cam.... FYI
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Southern Maryland
LT1Formula007,
good luck on your project.
At the risk of posting this way too many times, put a windage tray on that splayed cap $3100 short block you are getting. The ARP studs are too short for a stock windage tray so don't be tempted to just leave it off, (or you'll be pumping oil and air).
OP
State69champ, were you thiking full rebuild or just a quick re-fresh with some new bearings and a new oil pump? I personally think an old LT1 can handle a high rpm heads/cam package without a re-fresh. Run good gasoline and tune the spark advance on the extra conservative side.
Karl
good luck on your project.
At the risk of posting this way too many times, put a windage tray on that splayed cap $3100 short block you are getting. The ARP studs are too short for a stock windage tray so don't be tempted to just leave it off, (or you'll be pumping oil and air).
OP
State69champ, were you thiking full rebuild or just a quick re-fresh with some new bearings and a new oil pump? I personally think an old LT1 can handle a high rpm heads/cam package without a re-fresh. Run good gasoline and tune the spark advance on the extra conservative side.
Karl
Last edited by Karl Ellwein; Dec 9, 2007 at 10:26 PM. Reason: fix typo
I've been turning my stock bottom end to 6500 since 70k miles, I'm at 100k now. I just put in a new oil pump and canton pan with the new h/c swap for saftey though. My old oil pump gears were chewed up pretty bad too so it was a good move.
And the stock windage tray wouldn't fit with my canton pan so I took it off, it has a windage screen and crank scraped though so will I be ok? It's a 242-t pan.
And the stock windage tray wouldn't fit with my canton pan so I took it off, it has a windage screen and crank scraped though so will I be ok? It's a 242-t pan.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Southern Maryland
It's funny how the crank can pound out a big air space in the sump even around all the screens and baffles. That's why the stock tray is close to the crank and over the sump. It works so well in that possition, (near the crank and in the area affected by windage....the sump).
The test would be to set up a good oil pressure guage and run the car WOT and have a buddy stare hard at the gauge. If pressure is steady at 60 or 70psi or whatever your relief spring is set at then all is well. But when air gets pumped with the oil the gauge may go to 60 upon initial WOT then quickly drop to a steady 40psig which kinda looks like steady oil pressure. The gauge is showing what it sees. It is really air/oil pressure now. The bearings are gasping for "oil" at this point.
Well, that's my current line of thinking on this. Karl
The oil control for bolth drag racing or road course racing is by far better than the stock oil pan. The crank scraper and windage tray work much better. The larger Canton windage screen breaks up the air and oil better, so that you are seperating the two and keeping aeration to the pump to a minimum. Plus the pan has better oil control so that it always has the oil pump pickup fully submerged in oil, even when the g-forces come up from a hard corner or under hard acceleration. If you ever get the chance to look at the LSx Corvette oil pan take a look at it, it has all of these features built into it from GM. The pan shape looks goofy, but it is very functional, to bad they didn't build one like it for the LTx motors.
Last edited by 1997bird; Dec 10, 2007 at 10:22 AM.
Thanks for the info on the windage tray Karl.... I had already planned on going with a canton oil pan , but didn't know about the air/oil issue or the arp bolts being too short. I'll have to look into something else I guess....Thanks again! I'm planning on putting around 6 grand into this thing by the time the motor goes in, plus my other bolt-ons that I need. So I sure don't want to leave anything out that could damage my engine. I'm planning on using the LE2 heads and a LE3 cam along with a 3800 stall and a Built transmission. And a 12 bolt By the end of next year....Funds will be low after I get the engine in there and tuned with all of the bolt-ons. (supporting mods)
