So I just picked up a 2000 Silverado (dbc) with around 250k miles but super clean. I’m picking up a 2002 lq4 out of an h2 this Friday to swap into it. Motor has 195k miles but the salvage yard said it ran good. The h2 looked well taken care of and had a k&n intake. So my question is should I tear into the motor or just throw it in and go? I have a fti streetsweeper-tq cam (220/224 around .600 lift and 111 lsa) that I’m installing and I’ll put in an ls2 timing chain and melting 10296 oil pump. Plan to run 8.1 injectors also. Truck already has long tube headers. I can get a set of 862 heads locally for dirt cheap and get a head job and surfaced for $200 for everything. This will bump my compression from 9.4 to 10.5. If I do this I’ll also run morel lifters and ls9 head gaskets. Is it worth the extra $600 to do the head swap and put new lifters in? I’m running a 3k stall and comp 918 springs also.

I think the heads are worth it, not sure about lifters unless you're using something like the 5315 lifters. I’d probably still go with LS7 lifters if it were me.

I planned to run the 5315 lifters for $200. I’ve seen the zzp ls7 lifters for $110. I don’t plan to spin the motor past 6300 I just want it to be worry free and easy to check for push rod length. I’m debating on changing the rod bolts. I don’t really want to tear into the bottom of the motor if it doesn’t really need it because then I’m doing a full rebuild. Not sure if ls6 bolts would be an upgrade or if I should just leave the stock gen 3 bolts in there. I know the gen 3 rods are weaker but idk if thr rod bolts are much different.

Also should I check one or two of the rod bearings for wear? If they are good can I just reinstall and torque back down or do I need to check clearances? Should I do a slight hone and replace the rings? I know that some hones will remove too much material so my plan is to pull the heads and check the walls and I’ll pull the pain and check for any issues.

So just keep it all together and swap cam and springs? I’ll also replace the timing chain/ls6 oil pump and rear main/oil pan gasket. Just didn’t know if I would make good gains switching to 5.3 heads and raising compression to 10.5. Once I pull the heads I’ll be another 600 into it with the heads/lifters/ls9 gaskets/head bolts. But I will have a new top end so it might be worth it.

Cost of the motor included I did a break out to see gains to cost what’s worth it. I also picked up some gen v lt1 rods and pistons like brand new for a possible 6.2 build if I did a complete rebuild. Assuming the cylinders look good and no excessive tolerances I may forgo that.

cost of full engine and tuning included

cam only - $1750
cam/head - 2300
6.2 build - 3300

What are your goals?

I’m not looking to drag race it... it’ll be a daily driver that i’ll Play with from time to time. Plan to get a black bear cable tune or possibly a local dyno tune. I want something that will be realiable and fun but not something I’m gonna street race. It has long tubes and the 5.3 feels gutless but idk if it’s tuned or not. If I’m already planning a 93 tune I feel like the 862’s might help power going off what magazines have posted in their comparasions. It’s a good 20/20 across the board

So I’ve came to the conclusion that I’m going to run the 862 heads. I plan to mil them .030 and install the 317 intake valves in them. This will give me right around 11:1 and great flow

I’m picking up the heads for $40 and I’m selling the 5.3. Complete to help offset some of the 6.0 cost. I planned to get a valve job and take .030 off also to give me 11:1. I’ll ask them about bowl blending as well. I’ve seen Dynos where the 862’s picked up over 20/20 throught the power band. I figured with 195k miles at the very least I need to remove the heads to put on new lifters. When I removed them I’ll check the bores out. I’m really itching to put the gen v rods/pistons in and I just found a forged crank for $100! But if the bottom end is good i’ll run it as is. I’m getting a 6.0 short block for $100 because one cylinder needs to be sleeved. I planned to build that one for whenever this one lets go. My redline will be close to 6300 for now. I’m working on what to do with the trans. I’m either gonna run a sonnax/transgo kit with billet servos or do a full tear down. I feel that since I’m not spinning it the moon the 862’s will add a good bit. My biggest question is should I put the 2” valves in it. They are super efficient I just hope the added flow from the 2” valves shows it on the dyno.

I just ordered a melding 10296 high flow oil pump and the summit timing chain kit. Also orders some ZZP LS7 performance lifters, Chevrolet head bolts, BTR Ls9 head gaskets, and all other gaskets. I will basically be replacing everything on the motor excluding the rotating assembly.

Honestly I’ve never checked into welding the chambers. I’m only paying $200 for the heads and valve job and taking a few cc’s off. Every magazine article I’ve read shows they flow nearly the same but the 5.3’s are a lot more efficient than the 317’s. Apparently it’s the coeffient effect of the heads. If I do a built trans I’ll go 6600 tops. I don’t plan to beat on it and want it to last. I’ve looked at 80e swaps and can get take outs pretty cheap. I have a double cardan driveshaft so I assume I would only need to shorter the front half due to the 80e being longer. Throw in a new trans crossmember hen buy the new harness adapter and I’m done. Aside from adding a few feet of new trans line and upgrading the trans cooler.

I’ll get on it. Def not gonna baby it all the time. I planned to 93 tune it no matter 9.5 or 11:1 compression so figured I might as well get the max out of it. I can build this trans for as much as it would cost to get a used 80e and all the parts to install it. From what I’ve read most people would rather have a used 80 over a built 60. I found one local for $650 including core charge. $200 in yoke and ujoint, $150 in crossmember, $150 in harness and $600 in circle d converter. This one will let me keep my stock flexplate.