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RaceTCS = the Racelogic traction control equivalent
A few years back I posted a review on a Racelogic traction control unit which I installed on my Camaro and received enough feedback to suggest others have interest in this functionality.
The Racelogic TC is still working great however they stopped producing them shortly after I purchased mine. I’ve since been a part of a few other turbo-LS builds and was on the hunt for a used Racelogic unit when I stumbled onto the RaceTCS. I figured I’d take a chance and ordered a few boxes: One for my truck and the other for a friend’s 67 Camaro, both of which have turbo L33’s and 4l80e’s.
I’ve had both units installed for a few weeks now and they function as well as the Racelogic unit. The interface isn’t as polished as the Racelogic which has a nice digital gauge in an aluminum housing but I’m not finding that I miss it considering a simple dial and LED is all the more I need. The software has additional functionality over the Racelogic too.
If you already have a Racelogic unit, I wouldn’t swap it out but if you’re starting from scratch, I’ve been really happy with the results. I was looking for a review like this before buying it originally and didn’t see one so hopefully this review helps someone else.
Really interesting, I was hoping such a thing was available!
So, how did you do it for the ABS sensors on your vehicles, which obviously did not have ABS from the factory?
My car is a '70 Impala, with a Magnacharged LQ9? 4L80E and stock 12 bolt rear.
My Camaro has AFX spindles which use a Corvette hub assembly that comes with speed sensors. The rear signal I take from the 4l80e output. My Silverado uses the same rear output of the 4l80e and the front hubs were swapped over from a 1998 K1500 as the later GMT400 platform used front wheel speed sensors and it's a direct swap.
I'm not sure what options are available for your Impala with regard to front sensors but I'm sure something could be figured out. The RaceTCS software allows for sensor reference voltage adjustment so a variety of sensor types could be used and the tooth count adjusted to your setup.
Your car would be a perfect candidate. No matter how crappy the road, what tires your using or water/sand/gravel on the road, the box just sorts it out. I can nail the throttle under full boost around a slight corner and the car stays completely manageable. It's completely transformed the high horsepower cars I've installed it on.
Well, that is all very interesting! A traction control seems to me easier to live with than getting slicks (carrying the wheels, swapping them...).
When you mention taking the rear output signal from the 4L80E, do you mean you splice a wire right from the trans harness? Do you happen to know which one it is, its colour?
As for the front signal, my car uses 1970 Corvette (C3) front spindles and brake assemblies, I will have to research if someone has a wheel speed sensor for those parts... Any pointers?
they cut fuel to reduce power output? how is this done safely under load?
It cuts a cylinder's complete cycle. In other words, the deactivated cylinder just takes a gulp of air. It's the same thing OEM's have been doing forever as an RPM limiter.
Well, that is all very interesting! A traction control seems to me easier to live with than getting slicks (carrying the wheels, swapping them...).
When you mention taking the rear output signal from the 4L80E, do you mean you splice a wire right from the trans harness? Do you happen to know which one it is, its colour?
As for the front signal, my car uses 1970 Corvette (C3) front spindles and brake assemblies, I will have to research if someone has a wheel speed sensor for those parts... Any pointers?
There should be solutions available, though this is an area my knowledge is limited. There are active and passive sensors and you want them all to be the same style. Passive (which are what the output of the 4l80e is) should have 2 wires and if you plan to use the transmission output, you'll want your front sensors to be passive as well. I'd start by Googling "universal passive speed sensor" and seeing what comes up. Some sensors are able to use the back of your wheel studs as a reluctor, though I think you can get creative with this as the software allows you to adjust the reluctor tooth count.
It cuts a cylinder's complete cycle. In other words, the deactivated cylinder just takes a gulp of air. It's the same thing OEM's have been doing forever as an RPM limiter.
i always thought I heard it was safer to retard timing a bit to reduce engine power for traction control although i believe that has its limits creating too much heat. on the fuel cut do you know if they do one cylinder at a time and cycle through them or all at once? just curious how this all works.
I don't know about this one exactly but the racelogic I had would cut out 2 to 6 cylinders depending on severity and duration of the wheel spin. It starts with the same 2 cylinders and progressively moves to more cylinders if spin increased or is continued. They went with this because honestly when the engine gets powerful enough retarding timing doesn't kill enough power to control wheel spin. When an engine goes from v8 to v6 that is a dramatic drop in power and will control wheelspin under most conditions. Also it's better them the factory traction control that shuts the throttle and then whacks it back open. This system feels more like the engine jut lays over for a short amount of time and then comes back to life. It really is amazing how well it works.
Sounds like a great product. I was a little hesitant when I read it cuts fuel to control power output, but their website says that cylinder will actually run cooler during that time due to the incoming air cooling it.
It's a universal product, which means that it will need to be wired in, no harness. I assume the fuel injector wiring needs to be routed to the tcs box and back to the injectors, but how many injectors need to be wired in? That can get ugly if all 8...
Sounds promising though. I wish someone made a harness for a 5th gen camaro, lol.
I had asked them about this in regards to installing in a vehicle with Methanol injection (as there would still be methanol injecting under boost conditions) and worry about a super lean burn.
They had said they have not seen it installed in a car with methanol injection but advised against it.
I had asked them about this in regards to installing in a vehicle with Methanol injection (as there would still be methanol injecting under boost conditions) and worry about a super lean burn.
They had said they have not seen it installed in a car with methanol injection but advised against it.
Anyone come across it?
I had asked Julio at AlkyControl this years back and he said it wouldn’t be enough methanol to light off. I never tried it as I decided to switch to E85 at that time and haven’t looked back.
Don't see any reason it wouldn't. Still just killing power to keep tires from spinning. Even with awd it will see a difference in tire speed either front or back which ever is spinning and cut cylinders to control it.
Hi,
numpty question but...
my t56 vss signal i already want to splice into for the cortex boost controller i bought.
With these signals would splitting it threeway loose too much signal?
Not sure how this would all work.
regards
gav
Depends on the abs sensor. I don't know if the 2010 vette had hall effect or vr sensors. You would have to find out. My 2012 camaro abs sensors didn't work so I had to set up a tone wheel and vr sensor for the front wheels. Luckily I had already swapped to a 4l80 with an external vss or I would have had to do the same to the rear also.
02-12-2021, 09:17 PM
RaceTCS = the Racelogic traction control equivalent 
