Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Well my son crunched his 4l60 last night. We were out making some 4wd launches and trying to chase down a timing drop issue on the launch. The last launch he held the brakes as hard as he could and it started building boost (no 2 step yet to take the load off) and I heard a slight bump (sprag I think) and now it only has second gear and reverse. This is his daily with nothing else to drive, he's now using my truck while I drive the GTO. His is a 04 short bed, regular cab 4wd, turbocharged. So I throw the towel in, the 60e just isn't going to hold up to 4wd launches like that. I'm going to fix it so he will have something to drive, but in the meantime, we scooping up an 80e core and honestly i don't know where to begin with upgrades on building it. We want it to hold at least 1000 for future updates. Recommendations? Only thing I’ve looked up so far is sonnax build recommendations. I’m going to put the heavy duty 300m input and intermediate shafts in. And the extreme duty forward clutch hub kit. I see there’s an over run kit to apply those to save the sprag and then a kit with a bunch of valves, springs, spacers etc. and I don’t like shift kits. I don’t want it shifting hard either.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Shoot me a PM to discuss in depth.
I have a transbrake VB that does the overrun kit...built in

If you don't want transbrake you can do your own valve body fairly easily

1000hp in a truck
Short list:

• Input Shaft (Jake's Performance 4340 shaft I have used at 1000 wheel reliably...the sonnax 300m is also incredibly nice. Those are the only 2 I use. Jakes or Sonnax)
• Stock main shaft honestly will live. If you do upgrade, no matter what year trans, early or late, go with a hollow main.
• Sonnax 34322-01 Fwd hub is nice. I prefer that one so that I can cut it to set endplay. If you want a "drop in" option, go with the 34322-02k
• 34 element sprag
• 3 waved int frictions. Keep wave apply plate.
• Dual Feed Directs. This can be done easily with a 3/8 cup plug and leaving a couple seals off
• 1/16" bleed hole in direct drum
• 5 fwd with wave
• 5 dir no wave, thick .090 steels. Or you can do 6 frictions with .077 steels
• Roller output thrust. Simply use a th400 case bushing in the 80e case. Drive it about .080 proud towards the pump. Use a th350 pump bearing as the thrust. Start with a .010 shim under the bearing. Might have to swing .010 either direction to get endplay right
• Sonnax LB1 boost valve, reuse stock spring
• Jake's performance makes a really nice setup to use a TH400 high flow filter...I highly highly recommend this
• If you have access to a lathe, lots more to be done

There's plenty more to discuss for VB and Pump, but that's a good start for ya

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

thanks! I was actually going to message you before posting this, but I thought it would benefit others to see. I do have a lathe btw.

wlink14

My DIY youtube special build list for my personal 700whp car is as follows, with 1000hp the only things I would upgrade are shafts and hub, and switch a spring out in the boost valve.

Basically a stock unit that is dual fed, with some lubrication mods. My valve body is stock, No shift kit, and it is perfect. Still stock accumulators.
Make sure youve got that 34 or 36 element sprag, and you MUST pull the shifter into "D" or 3rd position while beating on it to avoid killing the sprag. Also need to be careful about shifting during burnouts and catching traction during burnouts. Sonnax also sells a kit to apply the overrun clutches in 4th.
2nd gear seperator plate feed hole @ .076"
3rd and 4th gear seperator plate feed hole @.096"
Center support lube hole enlarged
Converter feed and drain holes enlarged
Line to lube hole drilled @ .055"
Direct clutches dual fed internally(leave seal out, plug hole)
Thicker/wide intermediate snap ring
.055" hole in outside of direct drum for high rpm
Any clutch pack will do, I am using alto reds
New bushings
AFL valve reamed
Endplay set tight. Get a pack of selective endplay washers.
Leave reverse checkball out for faster reverse apply.
Pump is stock.
Sonnax LB1 boost valve with low hp spring, you may want the high hp spring but mine already shifts hard enough.
Set your clutch clearances tight on the intermediates, I did NOT use a wave plate here.
Directs were like .050", forwards maybe .040", I personally dont think clearances are super critical.
Get a nice converter and you will not be upset!

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

thanks!