Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Was hoping for some guidance to some performance

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Today, 12:02 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
dlwhitehurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Talking Was hoping for some guidance to some performance

Well for starters I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext Cab 4.8l. Fresh or somewhat fresh Motor and Trans about 25k ago.
It's the 4.8l w/ 4l60e Stock other than I've cut the exhaust off for now, moved the pipe to the rear, and put a resonator on it, still have stock cats, and i have a CAI installed, nothing fancy, do have a heater mod, but that's beside the point.
So, I'm thinking of adding some hp, I'm a disabled Vet, and not rich, so I don't have a lot of cash but was hoping someone here could help me pick out the best option that adds HP/TQ for cheap, but I don't per say like cheap jobs.
I think a cam kit, with a decent Exhaust will be the way to go, put unsure.
Facts to consider
I want to retain fuel milage or boost? not really possible, I know.
I have changed the tire size: Stock was 235/75r16 I have LT245/70r17 now, almost 2 1/2 taller difference.
I have POS 3.42 Gears, that I can't change because I am scared to, because everyone says you have to get the right. and not paying someone $2500 for one set "NOT 4WD". when a gear set costs $500 or so.
I want to improve power overall, to pull, and accelerate faster, and not be beat by some idiot who does 45 in a 55, I'm in Louisiana so there's a lot of idiots here no offense. but where I live, all over Louisiana really. people love to go 10+ under the speed, then try and race you, these newer trucks with the 8 speed and 10 speed are getting harder to beat , not really beatable at all in my pos. anyways. I went Stright to cam because the kit i could get for about $500 to $1000 and could possibly get it done from someone or do it myself. Its the cheapest thing imo to add power for cheap without a bunch of work, I have no knowledge of Turbo setups, so I dont think i could do that, as a part changer sure, but no knowledge of diag or anything. I cant see just adding an exhaust because it doesnt add as much power for about the same price or more as a cam. But either way is someone willing to help me if not a cam figure out a parts list? so far this is what i got.

LSXceleration Stage 2 NSR Truck Cam 212/218 .522/.529 HR12+4
$300
LSXceleration LS6/LS3 Valve Spring Kit 83265K1 - .560 Max Lift
$140
LSXceleration Sportsman 7.400" Length, 5/16", .080" wall, Hardened Pushrods
$109
Email tune with HP Tuners MPVI3 " I OWN" $200-$300

or

Sloppy Mechanics Stage 1 Camshaft - Choose Kit to Include PAC 1218 Springs, Seals, Gaskets and Pushrods 4.8 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2 LS LS1 LS2 LQ4 LQ9 Elgin 1838-P (269motorsports.com)

Please let me know your thoughts! Thanks inadvance!
Old Today, 12:22 PM
  #2  
TECH Fanatic
 
RB04Av's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,588
Received 670 Likes on 464 Posts
Default

Define "performance".

What I see in your truck is, an engine that's too small to begin with, gears that keep it at too low RPM to produce what power it can, and then, larger tires that just make those other handicaps worse. If I were the betting kind, I'd bet that the ONE attribute you'd most like to improve, is ACCELERATION, especially at zero/low speeds. I have a 4WD 5.3 with 3.73 gears and stock size tires. Much heavier truck than yours, but still; that's its EXACT weakness.

Putting a cam with longer than stock duration in it will just make all that worse.

Never heard of "LSXceleration". Not that that's definitive, or that I've heard of everything there is, or that anything I haven't heard of can't be any good, or any such; only, this being a forum for people who work with this type of engine, that it might ought to have come up somewhere or sometime. Not an entirely good sign.

If I had your truck, I'd look FIRST at gears and a torque converter. Maybe 4.56 and 2500 RPM or so. I'd leave the engine itself alone for the time being. There's no "there" there, without boost. Next thing would be, long-tube headers.

Old Today, 12:55 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
dlwhitehurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

makes sense. I get it but let's stay clear of boring to 5.7 or change engine size, that's not what I'm looking for. I totally understand what you're getting at, I purchased the engine and trans, I should have gone with the 6.0 at that point but I had no interest in doing so or going fast at the time, next time lesson learned. if this truck/engine had 180k this conversation would stand 200% more as we would be looking at an engine upgrade or rebuild.
What I'm looking Todo, along with a strong tune possibly even 93 octane+ only tune is add power, I'm not looking for 500HP, I don't need 500hp to beat the guy in the stock Honda civic... I already match him... but I can't beat him... or leave him from the line... I keep up with them right now.
what I expect is an additional 50 tq or so. which would put me at about 335 more than enough to get by, then maybe leave room to go more, with like an exhaust, plenty of cams are advertising like 60+ HP. so why wouldn't this be possible? I have a fresh engine that doesn't have a lot of miles on it that will last.

***Also side note/story. I have a 2002 Yukon 5.3 w/ 3.73 Gears Everything stock except CAI & Handheld Tune. Beats even the newer stock hondas. especially if i already hit my powerband. aka or " go to pass them because they are going to slow"
at a stop light they have a change but i normally pull away after 40 to 60 and get in front of them. its 700lbs heavier than my truck, but that thing has 100k+ on motor, its been replaced and total milage on yukon is 400k+ and ive put 3 trans in it, well two were bad, the shop that did it replaced cause under warranty, nothing i did...***

Also another reason, as mentioned above I stated in my first post the goal was to improve acceleration and I also dont want to swap trans just yet, im gunna go untill this one goes out which it only has 25k on it, so no, I dont want 500HP, I aint trying to blow the trans, and I wont be hard on this thing, just tired of the idiots and want more power. thats all.
Old Today, 01:19 PM
  #4  
TECH Fanatic
 
RB04Av's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,588
Received 670 Likes on 464 Posts
Default

what I expect is an additional 50 tq or so.
Pretty much what I thought your goal would be.

Larger cams don't increase low-RPM torque. They increase upper-RPM horsepower AT THE EXPONSE OF low-RPM torque. More cam will REDUCE low RPM torque. Wrong direction to go in. You don't need horsepower; you need TORQUE. Changing a cam to one "advertising like 60+ HP" will NOT increase low-RPM torque. Doesn't work like that. Don't corrupt what I just told you with talk about "500 HP". That isn't what I said.

The ONLY mod you can do, besides some form of boost (specifically, a blower of some type OTHER THAN centrifugal), is long-tube headers. Butt even those aren't going to give a 4.8 50 more ft-lbs. 20, MAYBE.

"93+ octane" isn't going to help. Lower-octane fuel actually contains more energy. The advantage of, and reason for, higher octane fuels is, they don't detonate as easily, therefore are tolerant of higher compression. As long as your long block is anywhere near stock, your compression isn't high enough to need it, and it will REDDUCE engine output while INCREASING fuel consumption, at the same time as making each unit of fuel that it DOES consume, more expensive. The only measurable improvement that putting higher octane through that motor will give, is to make it slightly faster, by way of weight reduction centered at the driver's wallet.

Gears & converter aren't going to "blow the trans". Fear of that isn't rational.

If you want acceleration from low speeds, leave the engine as-is; and concentrate on letting it get off-idle. Gears & converter FIRST. No need to swap the transmission, not sure where that idea came from. Don't put words I didn't say into my mouth to then give you something to argue against, or do it to others who are trying to HELP YOU.
Old Today, 01:22 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
dlwhitehurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thats why i figured id pair with a 2800rpm stall to help move it from line. and i believe the truck cams help from 2000 to 4500rpms am i wrong?
Old Today, 01:25 PM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
dlwhitehurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RB04Av
Pretty much what I thought your goal would be.

Larger cams don't increase low-RPM torque. They increase upper-RPM horsepower AT THE EXPONSE OF low-RPM torque. More cam will REDUCE low RPM torque. Wrong direction to go in. You don't need horsepower; you need TORQUE. Changing a cam to one "advertising like 60+ HP" will NOT increase low-RPM torque. Doesn't work like that. Don't corrupt what I just told you with talk about "500 HP". That isn't what I said.

The ONLY mod you can do, besides some form of boost (specifically, a blower of some type OTHER THAN centrifugal), is long-tube headers. Butt even those aren't going to give a 4.8 50 more ft-lbs. 20, MAYBE.

"93+ octane" isn't going to help. Lower-octane fuel actually contains more energy. The advantage of, and reason for, higher octane fuels is, they don't detonate as easily, therefore are tolerant of higher compression. As long as your long block is anywhere near stock, your compression isn't high enough to need it, and it will REDDUCE engine output while INCREASING fuel consumption, at the same time as making each unit of fuel that it DOES consume, more expensive. The only measurable improvement that putting higher octane through that motor will give, is to make it slightly faster, by way of weight reduction centered at the driver's wallet.

Gears & converter aren't going to "blow the trans". Fear of that isn't rational.

If you want acceleration from low speeds, leave the engine as-is; and concentrate on letting it get off-idle. Gears & converter FIRST. No need to swap the transmission, not sure where that idea came from. Don't put words I didn't say into my mouth to then give you something to argue against, or do it to others who are trying to HELP YOU.

also, let me clear, ive seen alot of people go the direction with Why not... just bore it or replaced with bigger engine, or build it to 500hp. except the issues are.. I dont want 500hp so no... i was just covering it from wasting time before it was said sorry and everyone loves bigger engines, but there are some people like me who like making the 5.3 guys hate life you know the ones who dont have modded engines per say.. and find out i have a 4.8 that beat them. thats my goal
Old Today, 01:33 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
dlwhitehurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Spoiler!




Old Today, 01:47 PM
  #8  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
dlwhitehurst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

"Gears & converter FIRST. No need to swap the transmission, not sure where that idea came from. Don't put words I didn't say into my mouth to then give you something to argue against or do it to others who are trying to HELP YOU."

I understand your going pull the were here to help no one else has posted. I can leave, I came here for help, not to argue against what I was asking, your wrong here not me. I can go elsewhere, you Stright out the gate ignored what i was asking, and then you put words in my mouth not the other way around read the entire post first. i never said gears and a converter would blow trans, everyone knows the 4l60e can't withstand 500hp stock I've replaced enough of them to know. I was trying to get off the subject your biased about. immediately went to **** on the 4.8l. Jesus. I didn't come here to start a war about which v8 this or that, I asked for cheaper price. to performance mods which was not really directly asking to go another direction if you can't tell from that from my original post then that's on you. it was VERY clear i wanted to go this path unless there was evidence of a better price to performance, if you chose not to help then 3 things will happen
1. I will notate what I know about you on this forum long time member, admin or owner or not. this isn't the 60's anymore, respect and such is two ways not one way you don't own me, and I don't own you.
2. I will gladly leave and let everyone know about it. there is one simple rule when someone asks for help. stay on subject don't come here to trash it. I am the OP! original poster. which means I ask for help. you didn't offer said help, you offered for me to walk into an argument, now I will assume maybe you're having a bad day. and I DONT KNOW ABOUT you, but I'm a veteran and a grown *** man. I say how i feel, and I will also be the first person to tone down an argument and be civil the decision is in your hand how you react.
3. if all above still doesn't make any sense to you, I won't argue any further ill just leave. I have no ties to this place. plenty of other places that will help.

Gears are too expensive vs the performance you get. again, said in original post. *Just replying as I reread all of it
Old Today, 06:37 PM
  #9  
TECH Fanatic
 
RB04Av's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,588
Received 670 Likes on 464 Posts
Default

So, put a cam in it. Obviously that's what you want to do, whetehr or not people who have EXPERIENCE, warn you otherwise, and tell you what WOULD advance your cause, instead of what your heart's desire would do, which is, DEFEAT you. Which is of course TOTALLY OK; after all, it's your car, you can do whatever you want.

I suppose, if you're lucky, someone will come in here and tell you what you want to hear, instead of giving you TRUTH. Won't change the actual outcome. (try a stopwatch over a familiar MEASURED distance: go capture it now) Seems to be a pretty common theme these days. Not that that will change what will REALLY happen when you do the cam swap; obviously you just want the music into your ears, to validate what you've ALREADY decided and are determined to do.

Sorry, that would NOT be me.

Gears are too expensive
As long as you think that, you will FAIL. You will waste your money on things that work AGAINST you. You will use your money, however much or little that might be, as the weapon to shoot yourself in the shorts. Which of course, doesn't hurt ME in the slightest. YOU are the one who will suffer from the "benefits" of poor decision making.

Best of luck to you and your project. Go forth and multiply fruitfully. Peace out.
Old Today, 06:47 PM
  #10  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
gametech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Stockbridge GA
Posts: 4,155
Likes: 0
Received 484 Likes on 339 Posts

Default

I put over 300,000 miles on a 2002 silverado with the 4.8 that originally had 3.42 gears. Any of the cams you are asking about will make the truck slower for 99% of your driving. After the first 125,000 miles, I needed to start towing with it, so I put on a Whipple supercharger. It still sucked with the factory gears and torque converter. I put in 3.73 gears, and that got it to where I could at least tow comfortably, but it was still not speedy by any means. Without 4.10 gears and probably at least a 3200 stall converter you would need boost to make that truck outrun anything. Truthfully you need all 3 of those things to keep up with the newer trucks. And any cam you put in that does significantly increase horsepower will need to rev over 6000rpm to really shine, and that will kill your 4l60. Believe me or not, up to you.



Quick Reply: Was hoping for some guidance to some performance



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:32 PM.