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LQ4 build for 85 c30

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Old Yesterday, 07:56 PM
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Default LQ4 build for 85 c30

so i just picked up a 85 c30 3+3 2WD dually. its a MASSIVE truck, has a 454 and a TH475 in it. I personally HATE big blocks , cant afford 5mpg on a tow pig. That and a lq4 out specs it right out of the box and weighs half. to be honest, the BBC going ion my wifes 67 Riviera while the 430 wildcat is out for rebuild. Anyway, ive built dozens of LS engines for many different applications, mostly mud trucks and classic car engine swaps. usually use a SS2 cam bc you know eveyone wants the nasty idle and it works great in anything light. i currently have one in my gen 4 5.3l with decked 243s and 4.8l flat top pistons, unfortunantly my truck is 7400lbs, on 37s, 5.13s and a 4l80e swap. my 0-40 is slow but 3k and up rpms its scary fast in that big of a truck. last engine in this truck was a lq4 with same top end sans lift, tires, and gears ( 3.73 and 34s with a 4l70e) and it was ridiculous, spun tires in 1st-3rd at shifts. On to the c30 now, as of right now im stuck with the 3spd, 4.10 gears, and 235/85r16 ( just over a 32") tires. eventually will end up on semi tires but ill gear appropriatly when the time comes. here is what i have available to me for parts, someone who knows whats better to use for this 10k lb truck thatll ALWAYS be towing help me out here plz. and for towing itll usually have my 20' dual axle car hauler on it ( it weighs 2k lbs unloaded) but i may end up with a 40' gooseneck flatbed in the near future, would like to be able to haul 2 vehicles at once. i have 317, 243, 799, 862 ( not a chance ill be using these heads, not taking a chance on them being the " crack-tech ones") Heads. i have 2 LQ4 blocks, and a spare gen 4 5.3l i was going to pull the crank and connecting rods ( i change reluctor wheels all the time, ive built many gen3 engines to work in gen 4 vehicles) out of and put sum ly6 or lq9 pistons on it for compression but not sure more compression is the way to go for hauling, if its not ill just rering the dished lq4 ones and keep the gen 3 rods. None of these heads are decked, they are in stock form still but will be ported and a good ol valve job before they get used. i have a couple ss2 cams and a stage 2 LL truck cam (212/218 not sure the LSA but it has some chop thru non stock exhaust, even stock you can hear it some so im guessing 110ish). truck will have long tubes , x pipe and performance mufflers. i have a great tuneralso, i do alot myself but he goes thru and double checks everything and shows me where i need improvement too. Any Advice would be awesome, i have everything here except rings right now ( i stock enuff stuff to build a couple engines at all times, but only the 5.3s as far as rings) . i use melling 10296 pumps , but thinking a 10295 may be better since this will be a lower rpm engine? i have a few intakes also, but all are gen 3 truck, may splurge on a tbss and bigger TB or just bigger injectors, dunno yet. i think the stock converter on the th475 is like 1500rpm, not sure since its behind BBC tho. may have to do something about that also, but ultimately am searching for another 4l80e for this truck or a manual 5 spd.

my daily


the stage 2 low lift truck cam (212/218)


Old Yesterday, 08:21 PM
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The 212/218 level of cam will work just fine. Easier to tune, and less "sound", if the LSA is a bit wider. The next step up, like 216/220, would probably be a bit better. Esp paired with the 243 or 799 heads and stock configuration LQ4 pistons. Same head, made with different processes, end results are essentially the same.

I wouldn't mess with rings if there's nothing wrong with the ones that are there. If the cyl walls still have cross-hatch all the way up, and no scratches, leave em alone.

The only "crack tech" heads are certain 706 castings. Those others won't have that. Don't worry about it. Doesn't really matter though, you probably don't want those anyway.

Stock LQ4 injectors are totally maxed out in a stock LQ4. Either the marine 8.1 ones, or flex-fuel 5.3 and use gasoline only, are good cheeeeep upgrades for those.

Changing the intake won't do a damn bit of good for what you're doing. For high-RPM use, yes; towing, you'll never know the difference.

I think you should look at a converter w stall acoupla hundred RPM below whatever your cruise speed is wherever you normally tow. I'm gonna guess you're at 2800-3000 RPM at moderate highway speeds. In which case, look at 2500-2600 for the converter. Add a trans fluid cooler downstream of the stock one (leave the stock one hooked up) if you don't already have one.
Old Yesterday, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
The 212/218 level of cam will work just fine. Easier to tune, and less "sound", if the LSA is a bit wider. The next step up, like 216/220, would probably be a bit better. Esp paired with the 243 or 799 heads and stock configuration LQ4 pistons. Same head, made with different processes, end results are essentially the same.

I wouldn't mess with rings if there's nothing wrong with the ones that are there. If the cyl walls still have cross-hatch all the way up, and no scratches, leave em alone.

The only "crack tech" heads are certain 706 castings. Those others won't have that. Don't worry about it. Doesn't really matter though, you probably don't want those anyway.

Stock LQ4 injectors are totally maxed out in a stock LQ4. Either the marine 8.1 ones, or flex-fuel 5.3 and use gasoline only, are good cheeeeep upgrades for those.

Changing the intake won't do a damn bit of good for what you're doing. For high-RPM use, yes; towing, you'll never know the difference.

I think you should look at a converter w stall acoupla hundred RPM below whatever your cruise speed is wherever you normally tow. I'm gonna guess you're at 2800-3000 RPM at moderate highway speeds. In which case, look at 2500-2600 for the converter. Add a trans fluid cooler downstream of the stock one (leave the stock one hooked up) if you don't already have one.
862/706 same head just like the 799/243s , just thought I read somewhere the particular marking on the 862s were the castech ones, I've been wrong many times so this may not be an exception!
I have a 40k cooler on the way, I put one on everything I own and recommend one to anyone I build for. Completely separate from stock radiator/cooler assembly.
And reason for the tbss intake would be longer runners and bigger TB. Gen 4 truck intake makes the most torque out of all the LS intakes which is same as the the TBSS intake, that and being able to use a non-return style intake and bigger injectors. Kinda like only having to run one fuel line, but not too big of a deal, price of a Corvette fuel filter about the same as a run of 5/16 nylon return line. Prolly cheaper the way you are suggesting to do it tho.
As for new rings , it's gonna happen regardless of any thing I do. I pull it all out , new everything thru out on bottom end and a quick dingle ball hone and full inspection, too far into it not to inspect and replace all bearings/ rings, saving $250 now can cost ya later, not worth it to me.
For converter , I'm not sure where I'll end up cruising with the 3spd yet. It def feels strong off the line with the 454, seeing how a stock LQ4 has like 10 more ft lbs of torque and another 100ish HP is imagine it'd be better with the LS with same converter .
Luckily it's 2wd , I can pull trans in 45 minutes or so , that is once my new garage is fully built. Current door I can't get the damn thing thru the door, lift is wide enuff but the door isn't!
Old Yesterday, 11:12 PM
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Litte advice from someone who's been down this road...

Spend a little extra and replace that TH475 with a 4l80e, you'll never regret that decision.

You'll never be happy with no overdrive and 4.10's.





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Old Yesterday, 11:54 PM
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I know everybody goes straight to the 212/218 cams for tow stuff, but in a 6 0, I like 220/228 111-113. Just more power everywhere. OP, if you need a clean, complete TBSS intake, I have one I would sell.



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