Pulled the retaining plate off finally and I put a small gouge in the top of the lifter oil gallery. Was told it isn’t a big deal and sand out high spots, fill with high temp silicone. Carry on as usual.

Was wondering others takes on this, for context I was battling my cam retaining plate screws (I’ll post a link for more context) and just started wedging under the plate to make a stress crack and start cutting through with a carbide dremel bit as all other solutions had failed.

Once I got the groves shallow enough I used a flat bladed screw driver and a hammer to break the pieces apart. When I was hammering at the top of the plate I went through and kind of gouged the top of the gallery.

And I also slightly gouged some areas below the cam. Do I just sand these spots out and make them flush with the surrounding surfaces and use silicone?

Thread of stuck cam retaining plate screws: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1976209-stripped-cam-retaining-plate-screws.html

 

Disappointing that nobody has commented on this situation!

 

Because the gasket sits above that top gouge I am the type of guy that would give that small portion a light scrape and add the tiniest bit of JB weld with a finish touch up to ensure it sits flat but that is just my budget *** talking. I absolutely think it would work to ensure the gasket does not not blow out as that is a bit too close for safety!

The bottom damage I would not worry about one bit besides making sure you get it leveled out.

 

Why is it disappointing? It's been posted in one thread now in another whole new one. I think people are tired of the redundancy and a bunch of posts from the same person that seems to be a rookie with this stuff eventho they say they aren't.

Gasket needs a flat surface to seal properly, that's a no brainer. Divot in the surface is not a proper seal.

Question at this point is how inadequate will this be and if it needs to be fixed vs. running with a leak. Not something I would run.

 

In order to comment productively, one must have a helpful solution in mind.
I'm guessing that didn't happen before your post, but it appears there are answers now.
I think in the affected area, some JB Weld would actually work after a proper cure. It's not a structural repair.

 

Sorry then, i'm using the site what its for, Never experienced gouging a gasket sealing surface. Trying to avoid issues where i can.

 

I need to work on that, having a solution in mind beforehand to help with starting a thread. next time ill do that, thanks.

 

You have nothing to apologize for! Despite what some may think, this forum is SUPPOSED to be about TECH. That should include sharing ideas on how best to approach or fix a problem. I suggested you start a new thread because the original was about how to REMOVE THE FLAT HEAD CAP SCREWS on the retainer plate. You've done that, and this gouging of the front face of the block IS A TOTALLY DIFFERENT SITUATION. Worthy of its own thread. You would think most people would get that, but apparently not. With some of the BS I've endured here, and you're now receiving, perhaps it should be renamed LS1 CRITIC. If so, I have an all star roster in mind, some of whom will undoubtedly qualify for the Critic Hall Of Fame. If some of these people have nothing to add to the subject matter, why TFF do you even post?? Offer the guy some help, ferchrissakes, instead of tearing him down ......

 

I wasn't directing that comment at you, rather to any potential commentators after it was mentioned about lack of comments.

 

Gotcha

 

I posted a solution (in my opinion, which is just that, an opinion, lol) in his other thread, but realized his current problem is a totally different one. The gouge is a totally different problem than the retainer plate. I advised him that it would probably be better to start a new thread, so that's on me. I figured a lot of guys probably wouldn't post to the other thread anymore because they've already giving their advice on the plate removal. Consequently, I thought he'd get more replies with a new thread. Just trying to help the guy out. You are right Gary. The lack of posts may indicate the problem may require a lot of thought. Personally, I don't believe he needs another block. If it was mine, I'd send it as per my post in his other thread....

 

I think things here are cool now. Hopefully he'll just find a way to smooth the gouge over with a little JB Weld. That stuff works miracles sometimes. Especially in this case where it's non-structural and is just a surface imperfection that needs smoothing over, Heck, I bet Bondo could fix it, but I'd get thrown outta here for such heresy, LOL!

 

JB Weld would be a no. Have to think thermal expansion here as a factor, and it's not something that is going to be binding well with oil soaked cast iron. It'll fall right out.

Why I said above if this is a leak that can be allowed to leak or have to be fixed. Me personally I would fix it because I have the capability, this needs to be welded in and milled down back smooth.

If you don't have the capability and at this point feel like throwing in a High Volume Oil Pump, might be the way to go. Given the Cam Plate mounts right on that spot pretty tight tolerance enough to crush the Gasket in it down quite well, I'd block that spot to where the divot is smooth with the surface, and put it back together.

There's your "critic" technical advice.

 

I’ll attempt a spot weld and smooth it out. I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

I would run a thin bead of anaerobic sealant around the outer sealing surface of that plate before I'd weld on it.

 

Welding that spot will require machine work to get it back to correct…if the weld even holds. If this were a clients block in my shop, I’d find another block…if it were MINE, I’d clean the area well with brake parts cleaner a couple times. Id take a dab of ultra grey silicone and wipe it in the area, then after 15 minutes I’d make certain it was smooth. Let it dry overnight, and go on about my business. It will be fine. The outer edge of the retainer plate gasket will cover the damage…from what I see in the pics anyway. It’s tough to diagnose stuff over the interwebz.

 

Why wouldnt the weld hold?

 

I agree with the silicone. Merv made a good point about the JB and thermal expansion. I had originally suggested either JB or Ultra silicone in his "old" thread. I am strongly against welding. Cast iron can be problematic to weld even for experienced welders. Problem with a weld is it can warp that area of the block, and even if it doesn't, most times you'll still have a low spot on either side of the weld. Maybe not much, but it'll usually be there. I suggested to him to maybe take a 1/8" diameter drill and try drilling a 1/16"-1/8" deep hole in the bottom of the gouge. This would help keep the silicone in place after curing. Do you guys think this is feasible, or is it a bad idea??

 

Hell I've got an even better idea. Drill a small hole into that area about 1/4"-3/8" deep and find a nail or something the size of the hole. Drive the nail in and file smooth with the gasket surface. In essense a plug and will stay in when the plate is there. Simple and effective. Drill a hair smaller than what you find so it fits snug. I'd go on an angle up so it doesn't bust out of the metal wall there.

 

Welding cast iron is challenging, especially cast that’s been in contact with oil. Basically cast iron is the junkiest metal you could ever choose to cast engine pieces from, but it’s cheap, so the manufactures still roll with it. The stuff is porous and oil gets in it…literally. You have to super heat it to bake the oil out of it, before you can attempt a weld on the crap. And then it doesn’t behave like steel while welding. It’s tough to weld, but it is possible.