mikey1000rr

well my car is pretty much stock but my stock pump was making a loud noise so i decided to replace it so i found one a walbro 340 .firts of all is that over killed or am i ok,second i didnt have the right filter that the 98s have so i just put the one that the kit has,3rd now my car needs 2 or 3 tries to start why is that did i do something wrong please help thanks mike

DrX

iTrader: (6)

Did the Walbro have a check valve in the outlet orifice? This maintains the pressure in the lines when the pump is off.

mikey1000rr

dont no how do i find out?

DrX

iTrader: (6)

Hook up a gauge and see if the system holds pressure(and for how long) after you turn off the engine.

DrX

iTrader: (6)

This is the check valve. There is a metal ring/cap that goes on the end of the nipple and keeps the valve in place. The metal ring stayed in the flex tube when I pulled it off. The valve can be easily pulled out when the ring cap is removed.

mikey1000rr

ok thanks Ill check tomorrow when i come back from jury duty.Ill post it back to let you know also where can i get the strainer with the two inlets or can i just leave it with the single inlet filter that came with the pump also since I only have the single inlet strainer I left the second line just hanging is it ok or should i fix that thatnks

DrX

iTrader: (6)

The check valve could also be stuck open if the system is not holding pressure.
Don't know if having the return line conected to the sock would make much difference.

mikey1000rr

where can i get a check valve so like that i dont have to open the tank twice

DrX

iTrader: (6)

Off of an old pump if anyone has a dead Walbro? If it is there, just make sure it moves freely.

As for the return line to the strainer. The factory setup might help to provide fuel to the pump under low fuel conditions for short periods when the strainer may not be immersed in fuel. Does the factory strainer fit on the Walbro? I think the strainers can be purchased separately(according to the GM service manual).

mikey1000rr

no it wont its to big what can i do im getting fed up with this crap.but I was also told that the tank it self has a check valve

DrX

iTrader: (6)

If you can't find a way to adapt the return, leave it as is but don't let your fuel level get too low unless your tank has a baffled sump. There has to be a check valve on the pump or between it and where the fuel line exits the tank module. I don't see a separate one in the diagram in the manual. Is there one visible on the factory pump? It might be internal. Here's an excerpt from the manual:
Test Description

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

1. [*]

mikey1000rr

thanks I found some problems first the inlet of the pump was up insted of down second the outlet hose of the pump was a little nick so it would loose presure so then after installing it again now the car wouldnt start again so i re-opened it and found that the clip that holds the valve where the return line goes was lose so the valve under pressure would leak fuel and lose pressure so I fixed that and now the car starts quick in the first try like it should .thanks allot DrX for your help one this one I was about to roll my car of a cliff

DrX

iTrader: (6)

Good work! So it was leaking at the connector above the fuel pressure regulator(#8 in the diagram)? That would definitely cause some problems.

mikey1000rr

yeah exactly thanks