another 383 build help thread
another 383 build help thread I recently recieved a pre 80's SBC 350. My best friend had it for a future motor in his car and lost interest.
heres what I know
350 block bored 30 over might need honeing/ was decked
clearanced for 383
400 crank aftermarket unknown "yet" crank searching numbers
5.7 rods aftermarket unknown brand/makeup
crank and rods checked by machine shop and are good
I am looking to make a very nice street/strip setup that runs 12.50-13.00 1/4 mile
Very stout idle (carshows)but decent manners for the street
thinking about 10.1 compression for pump gas
need pistons/rings, bearings, cam, heads, stall all this on a mild budget
no nos, forced induction
car
1987 camaro coupe
TH350 manual VB, stock stall
3.42 stock 10 bolt
car has on it now
electric fuel pump
Hooker Super comp long tubes
Holley 4160 750 carb
weiand xcelerator intake
summit HEI
this is for my wife (she wants a cruise car for the carshows and go racing with me)
heres what I know
350 block bored 30 over might need honeing/ was decked
clearanced for 383
400 crank aftermarket unknown "yet" crank searching numbers
5.7 rods aftermarket unknown brand/makeup
crank and rods checked by machine shop and are good
I am looking to make a very nice street/strip setup that runs 12.50-13.00 1/4 mile
Very stout idle (carshows)but decent manners for the street
thinking about 10.1 compression for pump gas
need pistons/rings, bearings, cam, heads, stall all this on a mild budget
no nos, forced induction
car
1987 camaro coupe
TH350 manual VB, stock stall
3.42 stock 10 bolt
car has on it now
electric fuel pump
Hooker Super comp long tubes
Holley 4160 750 carb
weiand xcelerator intake
summit HEI
this is for my wife (she wants a cruise car for the carshows and go racing with me)
Kinda being picky with the stock ctall thing man, you will need one. I just built my wifes 86 TA with a 355, a decent little cam with vortec heads, needs a stall bad, but it will use the stock one with the 700r4 till i get a th350 with a small stall(2500).
going off the requirements of street manners, cruise shows, wife driving it, and budget,
the iron vortec heads are the best out there last i knew in terms of performance for the price, and with minimal port work can be a very good head. The only down side to them are weight (compared to aluminum heads) and the pressed in rocker studs if you're looking to turn high rpms or go with a high lift cam.
And i don't know the weiand intake you mention, looking it up it says single plane. If it's not compatible with the vortec head then it don't matter but going off your requirement i think you'd be better off with a dual plane intake, will give you better idle/low rpm performance and torque which I think you would want for driving on the street instead of a narrower power band at higher rpms especially with the 3.42 rear gear and stock stall. And for cams the Comp Thumpr flat tappet immediately comes to mind which i believe would be fine with stock vortec heads. And for pistons, look for whatever will give you around the 10:1 CR range, with < 0.050" piston to head (quench) clearance, the tighter the piston to head clearance the better.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ide/index.html
the iron vortec heads are the best out there last i knew in terms of performance for the price, and with minimal port work can be a very good head. The only down side to them are weight (compared to aluminum heads) and the pressed in rocker studs if you're looking to turn high rpms or go with a high lift cam.
And i don't know the weiand intake you mention, looking it up it says single plane. If it's not compatible with the vortec head then it don't matter but going off your requirement i think you'd be better off with a dual plane intake, will give you better idle/low rpm performance and torque which I think you would want for driving on the street instead of a narrower power band at higher rpms especially with the 3.42 rear gear and stock stall. And for cams the Comp Thumpr flat tappet immediately comes to mind which i believe would be fine with stock vortec heads. And for pistons, look for whatever will give you around the 10:1 CR range, with < 0.050" piston to head (quench) clearance, the tighter the piston to head clearance the better.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ide/index.html
thanks for the reply's
I plan on getting a nice stall converter when cam sellection and compression are found
I was looking into the tumper cam but havnt seen any in a 383 and know that the extra cubes might "eat up" the lopey idle?
I would love to retro roller but def dont want to spend $1000 on the comp kit
I was interested in the muthathumper cam poss to big for mainly street driving?
I maybe getting my hands on a set of Dart pro1 aluminum head with 64cc chambers and 200cc intake. I really want screw in studs, and aluminum
I don't mind getting a dual plane I dont even like the single plane due to the "advertised" rpm of 2500 - 6500 and runs like crap at idle anyway
I plan on getting a nice stall converter when cam sellection and compression are found
I was looking into the tumper cam but havnt seen any in a 383 and know that the extra cubes might "eat up" the lopey idle?
I would love to retro roller but def dont want to spend $1000 on the comp kit
I was interested in the muthathumper cam poss to big for mainly street driving?
I maybe getting my hands on a set of Dart pro1 aluminum head with 64cc chambers and 200cc intake. I really want screw in studs, and aluminum
I don't mind getting a dual plane I dont even like the single plane due to the "advertised" rpm of 2500 - 6500 and runs like crap at idle anyway
ok....
I now have the block, crank, rods and pistons
pistons are shot, crank has surface rust on it so will need to be cleaned and polished, rocks look stock but have no part numbers, rod bolts ground very far for clearance (maybe cam)... block has surface rust and looks to be rough bored and also isn't decked.
I will be sending the block to my machine shop aug 22
block was mag'd and MBS ok rods and crank mag'd and balanced
I now have the block, crank, rods and pistons
pistons are shot, crank has surface rust on it so will need to be cleaned and polished, rocks look stock but have no part numbers, rod bolts ground very far for clearance (maybe cam)... block has surface rust and looks to be rough bored and also isn't decked.
I will be sending the block to my machine shop aug 22
block was mag'd and MBS ok rods and crank mag'd and balanced
