Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

Knock....? (With video)

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Old Jul 31, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #1  
SBCWes's Avatar
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Default Knock....? (With video)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuD5F...ature=youtu.be

I was idling at 750 RPM in the video.

It is there all the time, cold or warm. It increases speed with RPMs but doesn't change pitch or get louder. Sounds loudest when listening from under the engine. I've listened to the motor all over with a screwdriver to my ear but I can't seem to isolate it. I set lifter preload again but no change.

I'm just wondering if this is recognizable to any of you...

Info on motor;
'98 Vortec block and heads, stock rockers, untouched heads, stock rods, new stock replacement crank
This cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet
These pistons: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sl...make/chevrolet
These valve springs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-10309-1 (Made to provide retainer to guide clearance for vortec heads up to.550" lift)

Thanks a bunch.

Last edited by SBCWes; Sep 19, 2013 at 08:16 AM.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 03:10 PM
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It doesn't sound very loud in the video. My F150 and my race car both have a little ticking in them. Maybe piston slap??? Noisy valves? I figure its just noisy valves in my car.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:30 PM
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Must be just a bad valve.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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if it sounds totally uniform- all cylinders and rrevs, then keep in mind that all late model 'extreme' cams are known for tickity sound due to newer lobe/ramp designs. crossy
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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A few questions.

1. You used that cam and its a retro fit cam yet you have a 98 vortec block which is a factory roller block which uses a step nose cam. So you threw a cam button in the front and a wear plate?

2. You used those crane springs and they have and I.D. of .870, I've read where the guide boss is .860 that's .10 to play with. That is kinda tight. That might be some of the noise you are hearing.

The old beehives for LS1's do the same thing for vortecs and have a better I.D.

3. Your piston link doesn't work.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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If you know anyone with a tech 2 you use the special function and cancel out the cylinders and the noise will change once you cancel the bad one. At least you will know what cylinder to go after! Or I have had cracked flywheels make the same tick or tap noise! That's coming from a techs point of view
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 87silverbullet
A few questions.

1. You used that cam and its a retro fit cam yet you have a 98 vortec block which is a factory roller block which uses a step nose cam. So you threw a cam button in the front and a wear plate?

2. You used those crane springs and they have and I.D. of .870, I've read where the guide boss is .860 that's .10 to play with. That is kinda tight. That might be some of the noise you are hearing.

The old beehives for LS1's do the same thing for vortecs and have a better I.D.

3. Your piston link doesn't work.
1. I didn't use a cam button or anything, just the newer cam retainer plate originally used on the 98 motor.
2. Interesting point.
3. Link fixed

The noise has not become much louder/more noticeable over the course of 2000 miles. Maybe a lifter that bleeds off too much or pumps up too slowly?

@fastcoonass I will try to isolate it to a cylinder as you mentioned.
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