We have a free low milage take out 5.7L Vortec from a '97 pickup, that has been setting in the back of a body shop for a number of years. No wiring harness, no ECM, basicaly a long block with complete intake manifolds, injectors, throttle body, coil, distributer, and most sensors from the engine. (Engine was cut out of a wreck). We want to drop it in an older S-10/S-15 with a four speed (Muncie)standard trans. Not worried about smog/emission testing for this vehicle, so what is the minimum we need to run it. I am thinking knock snensor, temperature sensor, change the distributer for an older vacumn/mech. advance type, MAF, IAT, TPI, IAP, MAP? We really want to do away with as much as possiable, without going to a Carb system.

Any realistic, good, suggestions will be considered.

 

OR drop a GMPP intake on it and run MEGA SQUIRT

There is also the Holley Stealth Ram. It is a good looking setup and will bolt right on as well.

For probably around $1,000 you can do either one and have real injectors and not have the troublesome(to some) injector pack. Both look Cooler IMHO then the plastic top

Not to mention you can easily pimp the Vortec setup on E-bay to off set costs!

Using many of the sensors you already have Mega Squirt will run your injection just fine

Good luck!

 

i have a hole motor trans wires computer and all the front parts like power steering and a/c fan new water pump i have it all for sale for 800 4l60 trans with wires will seperate

 

I love your thinking!

 

You won't be able to use the factory FI without the factory distributor etc. The factory intake/injectors suck (19lbhr and mini-poppet style, can't upgrade, they are INSIDE the intake manifold, looks like a spider with the main dist. block and 8 little legs coming off). To be honest either go carbed (cheapest, easiest route) or go with a vortec style fuel-managment system (Stealthram Commander 950, Pro-jection, Accel DFI etc). IF you want to keep the factory setup, grab a painless wiring harness and you can pick up a stock PCM cheap. You need the MAF, IAT, crank sensor under the timing chain cover (this keeps you from upgrading to a double row timing chain), MAP, and a quality fuel system. The factory system on our motors (I have a 98' Vortec 5.7) runs around 58-60psi. Alot higher than a typical FI system, and the factory injectors are REAL finiky to fuel pressure fluctuations. My truck HATED my FMU before I installed a Marine style intake (which uses Bosch EV1 camaro style injectors/rails) and tuned it with larger injectors. If you have any questions shoot me a PM or email. I know this engine pretty well. Carbed honestly sounds the best IMO since your running a manual, and they get crappy mileage with the FI anyways lol. A well tuned carb will run just as good as a FI engine. Maybe not in hard turns lol, but my no-choke manual secondary 830 race carb on my IROC would start up within 2 cranks of the engine, even if it sat for a week without starting. I never had to pump the gas lol. I had a good ignition though

 

You just need to get a matching computer and harness from one vehicle. A 1996 would be your best bet since they did not have passlock in the PCM.

 

Ya, 96 uses the same CAL files as the 97, 98-00 ECM's are different. A painless harness would be the simplest way and he HAS to use the factory(or aftermarket replacment) distributor and associated sensors etc. But the factory setup sucks IMO.