Building stroker. Few ??s
#1
Launching!
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Building stroker. Few ??s
OOOOOOOOOK Here is the deal..... I have a 96 LT1 WS6 trans am.. I am REALLY wanting to build a stroker esther a 377 or 383. With the 377 I would have to use a 400 block Will that work with all my LT1 stuff?? If not what is different?? And if I were to buy a rotating ***. for the stroker would I have to buy it just for an LT1 or can I buy it for ANY GM 5.7? I have a block out of a 95 Chevy truck I wanted to use If I were to build the 383.. Thanks for ALL your help...
#3
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406
If you are prepared to buy a block,get the 400. If you do a cleanup bore there is a 406. The blocks are 2 or 4 bolt. I prefer a 2 bolt,then install 4 bolt steel caps. The 2 bolt block is considered stronger than the 4 bolt. If you do find a 400 block in descent shape it will be expensive for what you get. They are tough to find. The machining makes it cost as much as some aftermarket iron blocks which can be made way bigger. Unless you use a chinese cast crank the rotating assembly will cost the same for a 377 as a 427. GOOD LUCK P.S. don't forget to drill the steam holes in the deck of a 400.
#4
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the LT1 stuff is unique to itself. The drive for the water pump and the optispark are built into the block. The old school smallblocks do not have this, nor any way to add it. The heads are not interchangeable either. As far as cranks go, any of them set up for use with a one piece rear main seal block will work. A popular LT1 stroker is a 3.875 stroke crank with a 4.030 bore yeilding 396 inches. Hope this helps...