Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 12:11 AM
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Starting to think about what I want to do with a new motor since I am really thinking that this block is done and I keep runing into issues trying to yank the short block so I am thinking of ideas to keep me busy.

Motor will need to be a street motor but will need to be NEAR max effort as you can get but not be a race motor, yes I know this is hard to do.

What I mean is I don't mind changing valve springs twice a year or so but refuse to have to change them after every time I cruise the car.

Car will be trailerd to the track and cruised around local areas, maybe 200 miles a year at most (have no idea honestly but not many miles).

Big hit nitrous car, heads that I have for it now are aluminum 14011077's 118.Occ, IP 295cc, C port's that I am going to have ported and converted to D ports. Intake is a Holley Strip dominator that will get more porting.

Thinking about a Merlin CNC block maybe a III that way it can grow with me for when I invest in some better heads. Headers look like super comps and are not huge, standard size, I will try and measure them Sunday.


Car is on race gas so I am not worried about that. Don't really want to run a Vac pump, want to keep it as much of a sleeper as I can from the looks area.

Have a BG 850 carb that flows 1,040CFM.

Car went 10.4@136 on a 150 shot from what I can tell and on old parts.
Would like easy high 9's on the motor with new combo.

Not in a rush to build this car, needs new fuel system, and other odds and ends, not to mention its legal to run high 11's or so.........

Last edited by JUICED96Z; Apr 13, 2008 at 12:18 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 03:30 AM
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Your biggest problem off that bat are the heads that you already have on hand. They can be made to support a lot of power, and will definately build tremendous ammounts of torque, but will ultimately hinder breathing at higher RPMs and thus limit your horsepower. Even ported they won't be able to match larger rectangle ports. Large ports on small blocks tend to kill torque and make for a lazy motor, but with a big block you make up for it by building large cubes, which is stupid easy to do in today's world.

You already want to use an aftermarket block, so I say build a 12:1 540 cube shortblock. Add in a mild solid roller that spins it to 7000rpm. Toss your nitrous on top of that and you should be close.
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 03:37 AM
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The car with the solid roller that was in it was being shifted at 7,000 no problem.

Going to measure the primaries tommorow to know my options.

If I stick with these heads they are going to be ported by a pro stock porter, he will more then likley spec the cam also.

My number 1 problem is header clearance, I BARLEY have the room for the headers I have now, anything larger I am am pretty sure they will have to be custom but could be wrong.

Pics of headers here
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/j...camaro/?start=20
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 04:50 AM
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I know what you mean, I run 2" primary headers on my '70 and it's tight everywhere.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 06:13 PM
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check out ed quay. really reasonable price and the 2 1/4 to 2 3/8 stepped have ridiculous room. and got with a dart block. definetely not a fan of the merlin block. and for the money you'll have in the heads i'd sell them and get a good set of darts. b uild a 10:1-11:1 540-555 and you'll have something that will make all of the power you want and cruise reliably
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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forgot about ed quay thanks man

Heads look like they allready have some porting but if I can get some headers from ed then I will look at some heads.

Fiance approved all the overtime I want for the car hahaha

Last edited by JUICED96Z; Apr 15, 2008 at 03:13 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 05:11 AM
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I would say a 509 or 540 would give you pleanty of motor with a solid roller cam, good heads, intake, carb, and ignition system set up. I like the AFR heads personally, but you might want to look at Patriot's new Freedom series if you are on a budget. http://www.airflowresearch.com/315bbc_rh.php https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=33&page=1 Here is just an example of a street built hyd roller cam motor to look at. http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD555...eAssembly.aspx
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 04:36 AM
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Talked to the machine shop in person today. They are going to do the work and said they can start with a deposit but I said I would rather have most of the money in cash and get it all taken care of at once and then I will not have to worry about something coming up. They would not go into details (I can unterstand that) but said with a 5XX engine they can get me the HP and ET numbers that I want easy on the bottle.

Going to cost about what I thought it would and will cost at least what the car cost me if not more.

Right now the goal is to get the motor and tranny done by next season then winter of 09 get it hookin and caged.

Fiance approved everything

Just for a teaser the motor will be a street/race motor but very close to a race only motor, higher compression roller motor.
They built a friends 540 and I told them I wanted rouglly the same thing but something I could drive on the street some, just don't want to change valve springs and parts every weekend and they seemed to have a good idea of what I wanted.

Selling the motor and carb I have now since I can't reuse anything for this motor, intake still might work though. Headers will be to small also.

Next few months with the drivetrain out I think I am going to rewire a lot of things and hide some stuff. Don't really care if this even takes two seasons, it will be a lot of fun.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 03:14 AM
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I got the ignition system out of the car tonight since the fiance was at work.

Found a push button (big sucker like something for a trans brake or something) tucked up next to the ignition stuff in the car and was long enough that you could hold it while driving even though it was jerry riged, it has one wire going to the started and another one that I don't know what it goes to yet... hmmmm weird

Wiring job was not horible but not the best. Will be able to put the coil and new ignition box under the dash along with one of the fuse blocks and hide I would say 70% of the wiring under the hood. Pulling the heater box and one of the wiring bundles is just for that so that will be nice when its gone.

Allready pulled the factory catch can (going aftermarket and will hide it).

Everything under the hood is starting to look a lot cleaner! Trouble shooting I think will also be a lot easier.

Also putting the battery in the back of the car for weight and to clean things up under the hood also.

Might be going with another 540 short block that a local has........ either way the car will have more then enough power to pretty much take out any local that does not have a full race setup that should not be on the street hahaha.
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