This should help..
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
This should help.. I bought some new stuff..
The Shocks will be here before the end of the week, and the Bar will be here sometime next week.
QA1 REAR COIL OVER SHOCKS
UMI PERFORMANCE DOUBLE-ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR, New Item
The Shocks will be here before the end of the week, and the Bar will be here sometime next week.
QA1 REAR COIL OVER SHOCKS
UMI PERFORMANCE DOUBLE-ADJUSTABLE PANHARD BAR, New Item
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
I still have Eibachs in the Front..I'm looking into that one here soon. I'm goin to try disconnecting the Sway Bar and seeing how much of an improvement that does.
This is next..
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=234
This is next..
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=234
The fronts will make the big difference. I'm thinking wheels up once those go in? I don't know that the backs will do a whole lot for you. Your Eibachs were already pretty stiff.
Why the coilovers? You probably just put yourself out of a lot of stock suspension classes but I guess you're just going to the track for tnt.
The panhard bar is nice but other than allowing you to center the rear under the car isn't going to net you much if any time wise.
As stated, you would have been better off with some replacement front shocks/springs. Either the QA1-R's or Afco's if you can swing them and add the correct front springs to go with them.
The panhard bar is nice but other than allowing you to center the rear under the car isn't going to net you much if any time wise.
As stated, you would have been better off with some replacement front shocks/springs. Either the QA1-R's or Afco's if you can swing them and add the correct front springs to go with them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
Why the coilovers? You probably just put yourself out of a lot of stock suspension classes but I guess you're just going to the track for tnt.
The panhard bar is nice but other than allowing you to center the rear under the car isn't going to net you much if any time wise.
As stated, you would have been better off with some replacement front shocks/springs. Either the QA1-R's or Afco's if you can swing them and add the correct front springs to go with them.
The panhard bar is nice but other than allowing you to center the rear under the car isn't going to net you much if any time wise.
As stated, you would have been better off with some replacement front shocks/springs. Either the QA1-R's or Afco's if you can swing them and add the correct front springs to go with them.
I beg to differ about a time gain..getting that ***-end dialed in will help me launch straighter..I'm having some issues with it going to the right out of the Hole.
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have you dialed in the pinion angle for the track?
with slicks you should not have any problem hooking at the track
My TA 1.45 60fted on stock suspension
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
I'm listenin..I was just throwin out my thought about it.
Pinion Angle is set -2* with the UMI Torque Arm I have.
I need to get everything working together..then hopefully it will get out of the hole..
Pinion Angle is set -2* with the UMI Torque Arm I have.
I need to get everything working together..then hopefully it will get out of the hole..
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: benton, arkansas
our cars
Not going straight on launch could be several things. What's the air pressure in your drive tires right before a run? You did check it right? Does the rear have an open diff, limited slip or spool? Also, what's the roll out or circumference on your drive tires?
I understand that all the suspension stuff works together to complete the whole car and you have to start some place with it...My only point was your money would have probably been better spent on front shocks/springs at this time.
I would assume you already have a good set of subframe connectors as well. My car has dipped as low as 1.44 with (worn out) stock shocks at all four corners. It seems like the cage helped, it was in the low-mid 1.50's before and has consistently pulled 1.47-1.49 since.
All the posi means is it allows you to be a one-tire-frier whenever you need both to spin. Even the baddest "posi" units will fail.
you need an adjustable torque arm, adjustable front struts (even as "inexpensive" as qa1s as mentioned) and a nice anti-roll bar in the rear suspension. Subframe connectors are mandatory and a 6pt bar will help as well.
I understand you want to defend the purchases you made, but you gotta listen to what works for the "least" amount of money. If you have a big enough converter that'll put you in the 1.4 60' range all day long, even on drag radials. (no, I'm not talking about Nittos or BFGs)
And Bracket racing has no rules, we're talking about heads up racing.
you need an adjustable torque arm, adjustable front struts (even as "inexpensive" as qa1s as mentioned) and a nice anti-roll bar in the rear suspension. Subframe connectors are mandatory and a 6pt bar will help as well.
I understand you want to defend the purchases you made, but you gotta listen to what works for the "least" amount of money. If you have a big enough converter that'll put you in the 1.4 60' range all day long, even on drag radials. (no, I'm not talking about Nittos or BFGs)
And Bracket racing has no rules, we're talking about heads up racing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 21,019
Likes: 893
From: The Beach...
I have the Adjustable T/A already on it..once I get the Rear QA1's in I will buy some adjustable Struts for the front and start messing with it all to get it dialed in.
I haven't disconnected the Front Sway Bar on any of these passes..so hopefully that will make a bit of a difference.
Anyone have a link to an Anti-Roll Bar..isn't that just the Rear Sway Bar?
I haven't disconnected the Front Sway Bar on any of these passes..so hopefully that will make a bit of a difference.
Anyone have a link to an Anti-Roll Bar..isn't that just the Rear Sway Bar?
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=217
I've used that one in the past and it's a pretty nice piece. Take the front sway bar off as well as the front mounting brackets that are attached to the frame. Once you get a drag bar on the rear you wont really miss the front bar on the street.
I've used that one in the past and it's a pretty nice piece. Take the front sway bar off as well as the front mounting brackets that are attached to the frame. Once you get a drag bar on the rear you wont really miss the front bar on the street.
Here it is installed on a 9" housing that's out of the car. The forward arms attach to the frame rail via endlinks and some welded on tabs. The whole set-up pictured is for sale (minus brakes) btw.
