Speaker continues to blow
#1
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Speaker continues to blow
My passenger side sail panel speaker blew after about a year of owning the car a week or so ago. I had a factory speaker replaced and by the time I got home it was blown again (I was not pushing the sound levels.) So I took it back and the speaker that is in there lasted until I got home but when I drove it the next time and turned on the stereo it was also blown. What gives? Has anyone else had this problem? Is the amp or something surging when the system is turned on that is causing this? How do I resolve it? I like have sound in my car.
#2
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EVERYONE has this problem. Do a search and it will turn up fruitful. You might check out Kee Audio. He has a number of replacement speakers that have more beef and cost comparable to factory replacements.
I replaced mine with the Bazooka speakers and life has been great ever since.
I replaced mine with the Bazooka speakers and life has been great ever since.
#4
Your amp could be putting out DC and blowing the speaker by cooking the voice coil. You'd never hear it if it was. The cone would move in one direction and stay there, allowing current to flow through the coil but not having the benefit of a cooling motion supplied when AC runs through the speaker. I see it a lot with used amps at my shop. They'll pick up a used amp with one channel that's partially blown outputs allowing DC to flow through the speakers. You'll get this pulsating motion from the speaker but you seldom get a sound. If you do, it's usually a clicking or slapping or breathing noise.
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I get a slapping noise of the blown speaker has been the same each and every time. I willing to upgrade the speakers but don't want to do so if there's another problem that is going to just blow them out.
#6
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You'd want to measure the voltage at the connector for that speaker with your system on but the volume all the way down. It should be less than 0.1v. 0v is ideal. I also think the amplifier is the likely culprit. In that case, bring your own amp and put like Peerless SLS in there, if you're not willing to go for a hatch subwoofer.
#7
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If you take out the speaker and press lightly on the center, the tear should open up for you. The speakers just can't handle the power of the stock amp.