SOLVED: Door trigger for aftermarket alarm, 1995 Trans Am
01-11-2016, 11:54 AM
#1
SOLVED: Door trigger for aftermarket alarm, 1995 Trans Am ***Solved, an intermittent system ground was the cause***
I've installed a Crimestopper/Fortress FS-89 into my '95 TA. The remote only works to lock/unlock the doors when the driver door is open, nothing works with the door closed. There are two door trigger wire options for the system:
I have the shop manual, and it shows a Gray/Black wire from the driver door switch that connects via a diode to a white wire, which is the ground leg of the courtesy light circuit. I tested the white wire (driver kick panel area) and it shows 12V with the door closed (no other doors/hatch open). It does not show a ground when the door is open though, I figure that is due to the diode. I wired the green alarm wire to the white wire and the remote only works when the driver door is open. I tried the Violet wire and nothing worked either way.
I may have intercepted the white wire before the diode? The diode shows to be located in the cross-car harness.
My car being a 1995 has no BCM (1996+). I searched 3 pages deep & can't find a pre-96 install that deals with door triggers.
I figure someone else has run into this with a pre '96 F-Body. Any ideas are welcome.
I've installed a Crimestopper/Fortress FS-89 into my '95 TA. The remote only works to lock/unlock the doors when the driver door is open, nothing works with the door closed. There are two door trigger wire options for the system:
GREEN: (-) Door Trigger Input – Zone # 5
Identify the wire that reads ground when any door is open and 12 volts when all doors are closed. Some vehicles may have isolated door triggers. In this case you may need to run additional wires from other doors or go directly to the wire that triggers the vehicle’s interior dome light. Sometimes newer vehicles contain a separate body control module (BCM) where the door trigger circuit can be located. Most vehicles will NOT require the use of BOTH Green and Violet door trigger wires.
VIOLET: (+) Door Trigger Input – Zone # 5
Same as the GREEN wire below except this wire is used for vehicles that show a positive voltage (+12 volts) when the door is open and a ground when doors are closed as in many Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles.
Identify the wire that reads ground when any door is open and 12 volts when all doors are closed. Some vehicles may have isolated door triggers. In this case you may need to run additional wires from other doors or go directly to the wire that triggers the vehicle’s interior dome light. Sometimes newer vehicles contain a separate body control module (BCM) where the door trigger circuit can be located. Most vehicles will NOT require the use of BOTH Green and Violet door trigger wires.
VIOLET: (+) Door Trigger Input – Zone # 5
Same as the GREEN wire below except this wire is used for vehicles that show a positive voltage (+12 volts) when the door is open and a ground when doors are closed as in many Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles.
I may have intercepted the white wire before the diode? The diode shows to be located in the cross-car harness.
My car being a 1995 has no BCM (1996+). I searched 3 pages deep & can't find a pre-96 install that deals with door triggers.
I figure someone else has run into this with a pre '96 F-Body. Any ideas are welcome.
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 01-27-2016 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Proper cause & solution found
01-11-2016, 01:30 PM
#2
I think you want to connect the green wire to the grey/black wire. That is the wire that goes to the door switches which then ground directly to chassis ground when the door is open. I'm not sure if you will find 12V+ on that wire when the doors are closed but you should definitely have ground there when a door is open.
01-12-2016, 07:18 AM
#3
Do you now see both 12V+ with door closed and 12V- with door open on the grey/black wire? If so, is it possible that one of the other connections (not specifically related to the door trigger) might be preventing the remote from working? Just spit-balling here but could you have a power connection that should be connected to battery constant power but is actually connected to the courtesy light circuit or something similar? Something like that might explain the remote working only when the door is open. It might be worth double checking some of the other connections.
If you post the list of necessary connections from the alarm instructions, I can probably get you the corresponding factory wires to use.
If you post the list of necessary connections from the alarm instructions, I can probably get you the corresponding factory wires to use.