Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

my turn signals are acting up

2000 Camaro

LED bulbs for both front and rear signals

EL12 electronic flashers

Hazards work fine

was working fine for over a year until a few days ago.. when I went to use the signals they didnt come on.. sometimes they do and sometimes they dont. not even the solid light comes on the dash telling me of a bad bulb..

bought new EL12 flasher thinking the other one was crapping out but its still the same story..

I can get them to work if I flick the stalk a few times but its driving me nuts...


starting to think its the damn switch

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It is possible but somewhat unlikely that it is the switch so I would change the flasher first. The EL12 is an electronic flasher but not a "no-load" flasher. It is sufficient to handle LED bulbs in either the front or rear lamps but marginal for use with both front and rear LEDs. You can get an FF552NLF no load flasher for $12 on Amazon (free 2-day shipping if you're a prime member) that could solve the problem.

If that doesn't work, there are steps you can follow to test the T/S switch with a test light or multimeter. I've posted them before but I can do so again if you need them.

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

right on, I'll try the new flasher first thanks

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

got the flasher today and installed and just testing it out looks like it works fine.. only time will tell

VIP1

Since it is a no-load flasher, it'll probably still work fine with a light out or acting wonky. Walk around the car and check that the correct lights are working as they should (left signal, right signal, hazards).

1bluels1

is the fuse alright? i use a 25 amp. and consider replacing the reverse switch then tell me the outcome.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You replaced the standard 20A fuse with a 25A? That's a dangerous thing to do. Fuses aren't there to protect devices, they're there to prevent too much current from flowing through wires causing them to heat up and possibly start a fire. Granted, going from 20 to 25 may not seem like much but it's a 25% increase plus you have to allow for the fact that fuses don't blow immediately when their nominal rating is exceeded. A 25A fuse can pass 30 amps for more than an hour before blowing. That could cause some serious heating of the wiring.

If you find that a fuse blows frequently, you should never replace with a larger fuse... you should find what is causing it to blow and fix it before your car burns to the ground.

BTW, the OP said that they worked sometimes and that manually working the switch would make them flash so it could not be a fuse problem - a blown fuse would mean no power so no amount of playing with the switch would have made them work.