No turn signals, replaced flasher relay
01-29-2018, 12:58 PM
#1
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No turn signals, replaced flasher relay 02 3.8 5 speed.
Replaced the relay as I was not getting any left or right indicators on dash or out of the lights.
My hazards WERE and are still working.
Now with the new relay, I'll get a solid arrow once out of the left or right side. It will then fade out/not keep clicking.
Could I have a sticking switch in the steering column?
Replaced the relay as I was not getting any left or right indicators on dash or out of the lights.
My hazards WERE and are still working.
Now with the new relay, I'll get a solid arrow once out of the left or right side. It will then fade out/not keep clicking.
Could I have a sticking switch in the steering column?
Last edited by Dieselrob; 01-29-2018 at 01:07 PM.
01-30-2018, 07:45 AM
#2
There are two separate flashers (they aren't actually relays) in the car - one for turn signals and the other for hazard flashers. That's why one could work while the other doesn't. Try this first... turn on the hazard flashers and walk around the car looking for lamps that should flash but don't (including both bulbs in each side taillight of a Firebird if that is what you have). Any bulb that is not working will lower total current draw and prevent the turn signal flasher from working properly. Replace any bulbs that don't work and also check the sockets for corrosion - especially common in the front.
If that doesn't isolate the problem then we'll have to do some further diagnostics.
If that doesn't isolate the problem then we'll have to do some further diagnostics.
01-31-2018, 04:52 PM
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All lights are good when using hazards. For ***** and Giggles I plugged in the old unit, the flashers worked, just flashing much faster.
I double checked the compatibility of the flasher, wonder if it was wrong or just a bad unit?
I did try the new one again and it did not work.
Current "working" one, is a Napa EL 12, 13011
New one was a novita EL 12, so unless I am missing the glaringly obvious, the new should have worked sans it being a dud from the factory.
My original problem was no turn signals or indicators on the dash which prompted starting at the flasher
I double checked the compatibility of the flasher, wonder if it was wrong or just a bad unit?
I did try the new one again and it did not work.
Current "working" one, is a Napa EL 12, 13011
New one was a novita EL 12, so unless I am missing the glaringly obvious, the new should have worked sans it being a dud from the factory.
My original problem was no turn signals or indicators on the dash which prompted starting at the flasher
01-31-2018, 05:19 PM
#5
There should be no significant difference between EL12 flashers from different manufacturers. That's an electronic flasher rather than the thermo-mechanical one that came originally on the car. That's not a problem but electronic flashers tend to work even when there are problems with the system whereas the old flashers would go on but not flash to indicate a burned out bulb.
It is interesting that the signals flash too quickly because that would indicate too much load (as in running extra bulbs such as having a trailer attached or something). These older systems aren't like newer models where hyper-flashing indicates a burned out bulb.
You could try swapping the turn signal flasher with the hazards flasher - they're the same 2-pin type. While the T/S flasher is on the right side of the column up near the OBD II port, you'll find the hazard flasher further down the steering column near the firewall on the left side of the column. If you have trouble locating it, turn on the hazards and follow the clicking.
Also, you didn't mention if the front lamps were working with the hazards... those are the ones that tend to have problems such as socket corrosion.
It is interesting that the signals flash too quickly because that would indicate too much load (as in running extra bulbs such as having a trailer attached or something). These older systems aren't like newer models where hyper-flashing indicates a burned out bulb.
You could try swapping the turn signal flasher with the hazards flasher - they're the same 2-pin type. While the T/S flasher is on the right side of the column up near the OBD II port, you'll find the hazard flasher further down the steering column near the firewall on the left side of the column. If you have trouble locating it, turn on the hazards and follow the clicking.
Also, you didn't mention if the front lamps were working with the hazards... those are the ones that tend to have problems such as socket corrosion.
01-31-2018, 05:22 PM
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There should be no significant difference between EL12 flashers from different manufacturers. That's an electronic flasher rather than the thermo-mechanical one that came originally on the car. That's not a problem but electronic flashers tend to work even when there are problems with the system whereas the old flashers would go on but not flash to indicate a burned out bulb.
It is interesting that the signals flash too quickly because that would indicate too much load (as in running extra bulbs such as having a trailer attached or something). These older systems aren't like newer models where hyper-flashing indicates a burned out bulb.
You could try swapping the turn signal flasher with the hazards flasher - they're the same 2-pin type. While the T/S flasher is on the right side of the column up near the OBD II port, you'll find the hazard flasher further down the steering column near the firewall on the left side of the column. If you have trouble locating it, turn on the hazards and follow the clicking.
Also, you didn't mention if the front lamps were working with the hazards... those are the ones that tend to have problems such as socket corrosion.
It is interesting that the signals flash too quickly because that would indicate too much load (as in running extra bulbs such as having a trailer attached or something). These older systems aren't like newer models where hyper-flashing indicates a burned out bulb.
You could try swapping the turn signal flasher with the hazards flasher - they're the same 2-pin type. While the T/S flasher is on the right side of the column up near the OBD II port, you'll find the hazard flasher further down the steering column near the firewall on the left side of the column. If you have trouble locating it, turn on the hazards and follow the clicking.
Also, you didn't mention if the front lamps were working with the hazards... those are the ones that tend to have problems such as socket corrosion.
Yes all four lamps work.
I replaced the front socket due to corrosion, spliced and soldered/heat shrink the new wires. That was a month or so ago.
I'll do the switch and report back
01-31-2018, 05:34 PM
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Well, swapped the two, flashers worked. Plugged new flasher into hazards, hazards worked. Put the hazard flasher back and put the new flasher into the turn signal slot and now it works. Maybe it wasn't seated properly but now I feel silly lol. Ill drive it tomorrow and see if it acts up any.
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02-03-2018, 04:52 PM
#9
I replaced my flasher with AC Delco 19209674.
I no longer hear the "clicking" noise that all turn signals make when they are active regardless of vehicle type. Not sure why? The flasher should have a bi-metallic spring in it that bends as it heats up and cools down to touch the two different contacts which is what creates the clicky noise. Either that or it's simulated with a relay on newer cars. Everything works, it's just that the noise is gone.
I no longer hear the "clicking" noise that all turn signals make when they are active regardless of vehicle type. Not sure why? The flasher should have a bi-metallic spring in it that bends as it heats up and cools down to touch the two different contacts which is what creates the clicky noise. Either that or it's simulated with a relay on newer cars. Everything works, it's just that the noise is gone.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 02-03-2018 at 04:57 PM.
02-05-2018, 07:13 AM
#10
You are correct - in vehicles that have standard flashers (rather than computer controlled modules) the flasher creates the clicking noise, either mechanically with the original style mechanical flashers or electronically with later electronic or load-free flashers. Unless there is some kind of sound insulation on the flasher (I've heard of people wrapping them in foam), the solution would be to replace the flasher... the one you just bought is defective.