BCM solder question
08-20-2018, 07:05 AM
#1
BCM solder question Hello,
I believe I need to do the solder repair my bcm due to the radio intermittently turning on and off.
1. My question is, what type of solder did the factory use? Leader or lead free? Or does it not matter and Is interchangeable to do this fix?
2. I'm assuming it's safe to just apply new solder over the old solder?
Never soldered before so I have no idea if solder type matters.
Thank you in advance guys!
I believe I need to do the solder repair my bcm due to the radio intermittently turning on and off.
1. My question is, what type of solder did the factory use? Leader or lead free? Or does it not matter and Is interchangeable to do this fix?
2. I'm assuming it's safe to just apply new solder over the old solder?
Never soldered before so I have no idea if solder type matters.
Thank you in advance guys!
Last edited by Camaro223; 08-20-2018 at 07:49 AM.
08-20-2018, 07:41 AM
#2
Use only rosin core solder - acid core solder is for plumbing only and should never be used on electronics. Lead or lead-free is your choice. Lead alloy solder will work fine and is less expensive but if you're a tree-hugger and want to avoid using lead (or you live in a jurisdiction like California where the law may require it), lead-free solder actually has slightly better physical strength and conductivity (because of the silver in it). It will cost more and the performance difference is insignificant although measurable.
If you've never soldered before, practice first with a throw-away piece before working on your BCM. It's not difficult but things can go wrong (especially by applying too much heat) and you can end up damaging the circuit board.
If you've never soldered before, practice first with a throw-away piece before working on your BCM. It's not difficult but things can go wrong (especially by applying too much heat) and you can end up damaging the circuit board.
08-20-2018, 10:37 AM
#3
Lead free solder is an environmental thing, its part of RoHS compliance, has nothing to do with anything else. Don’t use it for anything, it sucks. Melts at a higher temp, requires more heat to “wet” properly, and oxidizes way too quick and makes a mess out of your tip and your joints if you’re taking too long. It’s a real pain to use compared to old school leaded solder (which is still for sale). Just get good old fashioned leaded solder. Make sure to get 63/37 solder, it’s by far the easiest to work with.
08-20-2018, 01:02 PM
#4
TECH Fanatic
+1 on getting some no risk practice. Quite often, new solder is not required and all you really need to do is to re-heat the suspected bad solder joint to "reflow" the solder. If its a broken trace on the printed circuit board (due to many heat cycles in the board), new solder will obviously be required. If it is a multi-layer printed circuit board, repairs may not be possible. Use a low wattage (40 watts) soldering iron with a sharp point and you will do well.
Rick
Rick
08-20-2018, 06:45 PM
#5
Thanks for the info guys really appreciate it. I sure missed listening to my system.
i think I'll try and reflow the current solder on all the joints in the T, unless there's hardly any solder to work with.. I figure that may be the safest method for me to try.
i think I'll try and reflow the current solder on all the joints in the T, unless there's hardly any solder to work with.. I figure that may be the safest method for me to try.