Will these DLR light sockets/ bulbs work on a 4th gen.?
03-05-2019, 06:08 AM
#1
Will these DLR light sockets/ bulbs work on a 4th gen.? Will these DLR light sockets/ bulbs work on a 4th gen.?
Well I thought the LED day time run lights & blicker mite last longer than the orginale type light bulb unless it rains.
Hopefully this stuff will work together, I can’t verifiy this because it’s aftermarket stuff not designed for this car. 3157 is like a standard bulb?
Bulbs and resistors.
Sockects
Thanks if you feel like offing advice.
Well I thought the LED day time run lights & blicker mite last longer than the orginale type light bulb unless it rains.
Hopefully this stuff will work together, I can’t verifiy this because it’s aftermarket stuff not designed for this car. 3157 is like a standard bulb?
Bulbs and resistors.
Sockects
Thanks if you feel like offing advice.
03-05-2019, 06:55 AM
#2
Yes, those LEDs and sockets will work. However, if you are expecting to have white DRLs and yellow turn signals, they won't work without rewiring. The factory system uses the same bright filament for DRLs and signals and only uses the dim filament for parking lights. So those switchbacks will give you white parking lights and amber DRLs and signals.
If you want the factory look of all amber, there are better (and even less expensive) 3157 LED all amber bulbs available on Amazon. If you really want the switchback look then you'll have to bypass the original DRLs at the DRL module behind the radio and then connect the white parking light circuit to an ignition switched power source.
If you want the factory look of all amber, there are better (and even less expensive) 3157 LED all amber bulbs available on Amazon. If you really want the switchback look then you'll have to bypass the original DRLs at the DRL module behind the radio and then connect the white parking light circuit to an ignition switched power source.
03-05-2019, 10:29 AM
#3
excellent advice as usalle: I don't expect to have DRL as white but as GM has decided DRL along w/ blinkers will be amber is fine w/ me, keep it simple .
I've allready purchased the bulbs w/ the resistors however yet to order the new sockets, had some spare time last week so I stopped into the advance auto store I think the man said $15. for each socket so I passed (he said he understands), in favor of ordering online because I believe there is a difference in car models so I wasn't sure if I was ordering the correct socket/bulb and resistor.
all I want is bulbs that last a while, dam the tail light bulbs are original from 1999 never a issue the center tail has blown a few times (however I think that is a failed ABS causeing that . fronts a different story total nightmare. hopefully the holes in the new blincker houseing will allow the LED to live a while. Thanks
I've allready purchased the bulbs w/ the resistors however yet to order the new sockets, had some spare time last week so I stopped into the advance auto store I think the man said $15. for each socket so I passed (he said he understands), in favor of ordering online because I believe there is a difference in car models so I wasn't sure if I was ordering the correct socket/bulb and resistor.
all I want is bulbs that last a while, dam the tail light bulbs are original from 1999 never a issue the center tail has blown a few times (however I think that is a failed ABS causeing that . fronts a different story total nightmare. hopefully the holes in the new blincker houseing will allow the LED to live a while. Thanks
03-05-2019, 02:06 PM
#4
All 98-02 f-bodies use 3157 bulbs for their DRL/turn signals. 3157 sockets are universal although some are made with the wires going straight in from the back rather than the 90 degree ones you found. The function is the same so it's just a matter of which type is more convenient for the space behind the lamp and for routing the wires. In general, GM uses the 90 degree sockets in most situations.
Most of the time, those front bulbs burn out frequently because of water getting inside. The bulbs get very hot while being on all the time so all it takes is a splash of cold water to make them burn out (even shatter in some cases). LEDs themselves don't get hot but the circuitry to run them does so you may find that the sockets get a little charred over time. The only thing to watch out for is that the LED bulb you get is capable of running at the bright level for long periods. A lot of inexpensive LED bulbs are designed for intermittent use as turn signals and will fail as DRLs in just a year or two (sometimes even less). I've replaced a lot of them for that reason. The best I've found for long term use are these: . They are extremely bright (amber only) and have lasted over three years so far in DRL applications.
Most of the time, those front bulbs burn out frequently because of water getting inside. The bulbs get very hot while being on all the time so all it takes is a splash of cold water to make them burn out (even shatter in some cases). LEDs themselves don't get hot but the circuitry to run them does so you may find that the sockets get a little charred over time. The only thing to watch out for is that the LED bulb you get is capable of running at the bright level for long periods. A lot of inexpensive LED bulbs are designed for intermittent use as turn signals and will fail as DRLs in just a year or two (sometimes even less). I've replaced a lot of them for that reason. The best I've found for long term use are these: . They are extremely bright (amber only) and have lasted over three years so far in DRL applications.
03-06-2019, 06:12 AM
#5
OK I picked the correct sockets.
thanks for advice and link to a decent LED bulb, please send link for the required resistors for these bulbs.
Amazone send damaged bulbs so there going back.
my original bulb housings didn't have any holes. I just did a front bumper swap and the housings had two small holes.
will these holes allow a regular bulb to live a while? been searching for 3157 Incandescent Amber Turn Signal Bulbs unsuccessfully can you recommend some regular bulbs.
edit: I actually like DLR but if given a choice I'd disconnect them in favor for working front blinkers, is it possible to just have blinkers?
Thanks again for excellent infor.
Last edited by badmfkr; 03-06-2019 at 06:46 AM.
03-06-2019, 07:15 AM
#6
The resistors are just 50W 6-ohm standard resistors in a heat sink. There are lots of them available on Amazon (search LED resistors) for under $10 for a pack of four with the ScotchLock connectors. Or you can get plug-and-play versions (search 3157 LED resistors) that just plug into the harness for under $20. Another option that I would recommend if you're only doing the front lamps is to replace the turn signal flasher with an electronic one (search 2 pin LED flasher). The resistors get quite hot when running constantly for DRL and can melt anything plastic that they are touching. An electronic flasher will eliminate the non-flashing caused by the LED bulbs not drawing enough current without needing to modify the wiring in any way.
Holes in the lamp housings generally aren't helpful. Some have suggested that holes in the bottom will allow water to escape but a properly sealed housing won't get water inside in the first place. The factory housings are sealed but the heat of the bulbs eventually causes cracks that allow water to get in. With LED bulbs you won't have that heat buildup so the housings should stay watertight.
Standard incandescent bulbs are basically all the same. You should look for 3157NALL - the NA means natural amber (tinted glass rather than amber coated) and the LL stands for long life. You could also use 3157NAK - the K stands for Krypton gas inside the bulb which is what the LL also use.
Personally, I would go with the amber LED bulbs I linked and an electronic flasher. You'll get long bulb life without the heat problems and without having to modify the wiring with resistors.
Holes in the lamp housings generally aren't helpful. Some have suggested that holes in the bottom will allow water to escape but a properly sealed housing won't get water inside in the first place. The factory housings are sealed but the heat of the bulbs eventually causes cracks that allow water to get in. With LED bulbs you won't have that heat buildup so the housings should stay watertight.
Standard incandescent bulbs are basically all the same. You should look for 3157NALL - the NA means natural amber (tinted glass rather than amber coated) and the LL stands for long life. You could also use 3157NAK - the K stands for Krypton gas inside the bulb which is what the LL also use.
Personally, I would go with the amber LED bulbs I linked and an electronic flasher. You'll get long bulb life without the heat problems and without having to modify the wiring with resistors.