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Torque Arm Dana 60 Clearance Issues Pics

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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 01:59 AM
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Default Torque Arm Dana 60 Clearance Issues Pics

Okay, this is my 1st shot at posting pics, so here goes. The torque arm is Spohn's adjustable crossmember mounted, part #405. There are 2 clearance issues:

1. I dropped the car low enough on my lift to put weight on the suspension. The corner of the rear mounting bracket hit the floor pan. I hope I can solve this by cutting away half of the upper bracket, and using the driver's side set of mounting bolt holes. I have to cut it to use the other set of holes; a stiffening gusset on top of the Dana 60 interferes with moving the bracket towards the passenger's side of the car.

2. The pic may not show it clearly, but the front crossmember, passenger side, is hanging way too low. Anything taller than a praying mantis on the road, is going to get clipped. I'm scoping out a way I can cut the passenger side piece of the front crossmember out, and weld in a straighter piece. But then I might have clearance issues with the y-pipe.

Suggestions?





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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 07:52 AM
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yeah I had to cut the top of the bracket on my BMR torque arm to make it work with the 60.....I really don't know why they would make that crossmember come down like that though.....my BMR doesn't do that
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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Do you have lowering springs if so thats another reason why its hitting.
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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if you call strange they can fax or email you a drwaing. i am pretty sure the s60 uses same holes as 9". also you have to cut the braket a little bit.
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 08:42 AM
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You will have to cut the bracket to clear the housing, you have to do it on ours also. The reason his crossmember dips like that is for the exhaust to run above it. On ours the exhaust goes underneath the crossmember.
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 09:46 AM
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damn i can't wait till spohn finishes my dana

but i know you have to cut the arm since your lowered....how much is your drop so i know what to expect
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by crossroads
damn i can't wait till spohn finishes my dana

but i know you have to cut the arm since your lowered....how much is your drop so i know what to expect
my car isn't lowered and i still had to cut the bracket.....also make sure you put the nuts to the bolts on the passenger side of the car and not on the drivers side because the nuts stick and farther than the bolt heads and can rub

Last edited by KBG; May 1, 2009 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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thanks for the heads up

how do you like your dana?
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by crossroads
thanks for the heads up

how do you like your dana?
dana is fine...definitely a hoss of a rearend and bolted right in......I just am having a vibration that I can't seem to get rid of in the rear end
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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So it's either scrape the passenger side crossmember with the Spohn unit, or scrape the passenger side exhaust with the BMR unit.

Maybe I should have gone with the transmission mounted torque arm?
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 12:31 PM
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my BMR doesn't scrape the exhaust at all
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by KBG
my BMR doesn't scrape the exhaust at all
Unfortunately, I already have too much money tied up to switch horses in midstream. I'm going to cut the passenger side cross member off, weld on a straight piece, and route my exhaust under the cross member, instead of over it.

Also, after mocking up the torque arm and drive shaft, it looks like I'm going to have to cut a section of the integral drive shaft loop down, and weld it back up. It sits too high, and will definitely hit the drive shaft tunnel. I've always used Spohn suspension/chassis components, and have been well satisfied, but this piece, at least when used in conjunction with a Dana 60, could stand some re-engineering. I was afraid to stay with the transmission mounted torque arm after the horror stories I'd heard about snapping off T56 tail shafts.

Oh well, if this is the ugliest problem I have after practically rebuilding my entire car, I shouldn't complain.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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I bought that same spohn torque arm great piece but way too low on the passenger side with my only dropped 1 inch car! I hit on lots of roads,everywhere and it was nightmare going up onto hoists for work on the car ,etc. Was afraid might rip it right off the car and do major damage.

I was going to modify it but decided to sell it to someone with non lowered car.
I ordered regular bmr type adjustable torque arm and bought a 4l80e conversion crossmember that moves torque arm over off the trans. That one don't lose any ground clearance it looks like. Just got a spohn driveshaft loop that also don't look like it loses any ground clearance. So should be good to go now. yeah think it was the bmr website of somewhere where it shows you have to cut the bmr torque arm top of bracket a bit to clear the dana 60. No big deal to me after all the modding I have had to do to my car to install my twin turbo kit.

I am going dana 60 for sure in a few months. 3.54 gears. Hoping they are quiet likely will check pattern before even running them . Will change out make of gears if they are noisy. Not going to put up with noisy rearend.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Here is a diagram of the cut that needs to made on our torque arm bracket.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask
Attached Thumbnails Torque Arm Dana 60 Clearance Issues Pics-dana60mod.jpg  
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 02:48 PM
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I never cut my torque arm when I installed it, I just clearanced the tunnel around it and haven't had any problems. I honestly didn't even think to cut it, but it's not a bad idea.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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good to know
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