First off, this is long, but it's full of detail. Please take the time to read it.

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Alright guys here is the deal. About a month ago my red colored brake light came on. I thought maybe it was related to the e-brake since the brakes were acting normally.

About 2 weeks ago, I lost all pressure in my brake pedal. I could pretty much push that sucker to the floor. I checked the temperature of the rotors to see if all 4 calipers were firing. Upon this inspection, I determined the back brakes were either, just barely working, or not at all.

I checked the master cylinder, and it had leakage all over the place. So I determined that that unit was faulty. I replaced the master cylinder and the rear brake pads yesterday. I also lubed up the sliding "pins" that the calipers slide on.

After we bled the brakes, all 4, and the master cylinder, I had excellent pressure on the pedal! The light went away and all was great! All 4 pistons were firing and no leaks were seen. I drove the car for the rest of the night and it was great.

Now it's the next day. I started the car for the first time, and the damn brake light was on again.

During our bleeding process, the drivers side bleeder nut/screw/valve whatever, got stripped. We used a removal tool to remove it, but it was able to be tightened back down.

I immediately thought this was the problem. maybe that screw wasn't down properly. So I took the wheel off today, in the middle of a ******* thunderstorm, and proceeded to diagnose the problem. I was able to remove the nut, pretty much by hand. So I assumed that was part of the problem. Also, the little bolt and flange that screw onto the back of the caliper, that holds the brake line to the caliper, seemed to be leaking as well.

Somehow during this process of removing and installing, I managed to strip the threads So I went and just got a brand new caliper from autozone. I got everything put together, and bled. The brake light went off, but I still have little to no pressure in the pedal. Do I need to bleed the rest of the calipers again?

What is the correct process of bleeding abs brakes that have been disabled? I had the car on, pumped the pedal a few times, held it, tightened the screw, then repeated a couple times on each caliper.

Sorry for the length of this thread, but I'm totally stumped and I want this resolved so I can drive the car.

Thanks.

 

One other thing, the car is a 97 Lt1, the front brakes are 98+. I did the conversion.

 

the bleeding process is the same either way. open the bleeder, depress the pedal, tighten bleeder, release pedal, repeat until fresh fluid appears w/o bubbles or gurgling. secondly, you may have to bleed all four calipers again. if any air was introduced into the fluid by replacing that one caliper its not hard for it to make its way throughout the entire system.

 

Thanks, for the reply. I'm going to give it a try again on Saturday and report my findings. Thanks.

 

Phantom, you will have to bleed all the brakes again unfortunately. Also my car's ABS is disabled, but I bled the module anyway, there was two bleeder screws on it(I'm betting fluid still goes through it, not positive though).