Bolt in Subframe connectors HELP
Bolt in Subframe connectors HELP I'm currently installing my UMI 3 point subframe connectors. I'm having trouble getting the center bolts to install. I have the control arm bolt loose, and front bolts just snug. Has anyone ever had to grind the holes on the subframe connectors to get a little more adjustment?
I have the car level, and the suspension loaded on all four corners. I've tried different angles, and still can't get the center bolt holes lined up. What do you guys recommend?
I have the car level, and the suspension loaded on all four corners. I've tried different angles, and still can't get the center bolt holes lined up. What do you guys recommend?
SFC's Problem! Hello
You shouldn't have to modify anything(grinding wise)! Make sure the bolts are not tight until you have them all started and then tighten them all down to specs. If you have any other problems or questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
You shouldn't have to modify anything(grinding wise)! Make sure the bolts are not tight until you have them all started and then tighten them all down to specs. If you have any other problems or questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I've got the front resting on an old set of tires and rims. I have the back axle on jack stands, with the suspension fully compressed on all four corners.
Hello,
Like Brad mentioned you shouldn't have to grind them. It sounds like two things.. one is they may just be in a bind not lining up correctly. You may want to get a second person to help hold them. Try that
Second, is depending on the use of the vehicle or if it was ever in an accident, this could be causing some of the issue. If you have to hit the center holes with a grinder or dremel this might be needed for your vehicle... but to be honest we have never seen any issues.
Let us know how it goes. Thanks!
Ryan
Like Brad mentioned you shouldn't have to grind them. It sounds like two things.. one is they may just be in a bind not lining up correctly. You may want to get a second person to help hold them. Try that
Second, is depending on the use of the vehicle or if it was ever in an accident, this could be causing some of the issue. If you have to hit the center holes with a grinder or dremel this might be needed for your vehicle... but to be honest we have never seen any issues.
Let us know how it goes. Thanks!
Ryan
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On The Tree
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i had and still have this issue with slp 3 point subframe connectors, Not Umi... but maybe its a common thing my car is low milage and hasnt been involved in a collision. I will most likely be using a dremel just to get that last bit for the last two bolts (one on each side) to get in.
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I had to grind some on the passenger side center bolt holes to get mine installed. I have the UMI 3 point bolt in connectors. I tried every possible approach but they would not line up, the driver’s side was perfect. My car had 9500 miles on it at the time and had been in no collisions. Who knows why it did not align but they fit fine now and make no noises or anything like that.
First like the UMI guys said, make sure none are snug and only start about 2-3 threads....then you could use a screw driver to put thru one hole to line up and start a bolt on one of the other holes... that's what I would suggest.
Never been in an accident. I can only think of two things that could be an issue.
1) 145,000 miles
2) I haven't used that stupid tunnel brace for the past 2 years. My exhaust always hit the thing.
I will probably end up grinding the hole a bit larger. I don't have to take that much meat out of the holes. I just can't get the bolts to go through straight, because they are rubbing on the connectors.
Then I'll hopefully have them welded in next month.
1) 145,000 miles
2) I haven't used that stupid tunnel brace for the past 2 years. My exhaust always hit the thing.
I will probably end up grinding the hole a bit larger. I don't have to take that much meat out of the holes. I just can't get the bolts to go through straight, because they are rubbing on the connectors.
Then I'll hopefully have them welded in next month.
What we recommend to our customers that purchase the bolt in sub-frame connectors, is get all the bolts started and then tighten all the hardware to specs (loctite optional). The reason we say that is sometime people don't tighten the hardware down to the correct specs and the hardware works its way loose which that is were the noise is coming from. If you have any other questions leave me know and I will be glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 517
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I had the SAME problem with the DS rear-center bolt with my SLP SFCs. I ended up just widening the hole .25-inch & it went right in. And BTW, the only thing better about the weld-ons is the price. As long as you keep the bolts at about 100lb-ft and check them periodically, the bolt-ons are just as good. Weld-in are just guarateed maintenance-free.
Bolt-ons are nice because you can remove them if you ever needed to work on anything they cover up. Weld-in... not so much.
Bolt-ons are nice because you can remove them if you ever needed to work on anything they cover up. Weld-in... not so much.
