ABS Module - Replace and Bleed
ABS Module - Replace and Bleed So I should get my "new to me" ABS brake module tonight and hopefully I get it all installed. Now I've heard that when a new module is put it it has to be cycled to get all the air out of it, and the only way to cycle it is with a Tech II or another equivalent scan tool. So I gave the local dealer a call and can you believe that they want $188.00 just to bleed the brakes which includes cycling the ABS module?!?
There's gotta be a better way. Any suggestions?
There's gotta be a better way. Any suggestions?
this is what i did:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bleeding_abs.shtml
i bled the system, drove around mashing the brakes, and re-bled.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bleeding_abs.shtml
i bled the system, drove around mashing the brakes, and re-bled.
Well, if all you did was swap calipers and were carefull not to let the fluid level drop too far then you probably didn't introduce any air into the ABS module. The module I'm gonna put in is probably bone dry or pretty darn close (I saw probably cause I'm still waiting on FedEX).
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 418
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From: Houston, Tx
When the dealer (or whoever) uses a techII, are they cycling the ABS with the bleeder open? It seems that stomping on the brakes on a wet street to activiate the ABS wouldn't push the air out of the ABS since the bleeder is closed.
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So I should get my "new to me" ABS brake module tonight and hopefully I get it all installed. Now I've heard that when a new module is put it it has to be cycled to get all the air out of it, and the only way to cycle it is with a Tech II or another equivalent scan tool. So I gave the local dealer a call and can you believe that they want $188.00 just to bleed the brakes which includes cycling the ABS module?!?
There's gotta be a better way. Any suggestions?
There's gotta be a better way. Any suggestions?
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Joined: Jan 2004
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I'm glad I read this. I'm thinking about doing some maintenance on my brake system. Planning on changing the lines over to stainless steel braided lines, change the pads and rotors and either going to inspect/clean the calipers or change them out.
So if by chance any of this introduces air into the ABS/TCS, I don't have to go to the stealership to cycle the ABS/TCS and pay them with my arm or leg?
So if by chance any of this introduces air into the ABS/TCS, I don't have to go to the stealership to cycle the ABS/TCS and pay them with my arm or leg?
I'm glad I read this. I'm thinking about doing some maintenance on my brake system. Planning on changing the lines over to stainless steel braided lines, change the pads and rotors and either going to inspect/clean the calipers or change them out.
So if by chance any of this introduces air into the ABS/TCS, I don't have to go to the stealership to cycle the ABS/TCS and pay them with my arm or leg?
So if by chance any of this introduces air into the ABS/TCS, I don't have to go to the stealership to cycle the ABS/TCS and pay them with my arm or leg?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
I know right? I hardly ever use it myself. But I don't want air coming from the ABS module into my normal brakes. So as long as I keep fluid in the master cylinder while working on whatever in the system, the ABS module should never get air in it?
Nevermind. I figured it out!
I could not bleed the front brakes after I re-installed the K-member after it had been out for 2 weeks. All I got was air. I tried everything!
I actually though about trying to drive it (and lock up the brakes) but the thought of taking it off of the stands only to put it back on seemed like a waste of energy.
I got the block to bleed by turning the key to on and spinning each front wheel by hand as fast as I could while you have someone alternate tapping the brake lightly and then holding light pressure. The block instantly bleed out the air. Lastly I bled the front, left and right calipers and the brakes are back 100%
I am not sure if this will work for all systems but it worked for me, and I'm not sure if it would work for rear single channel axles, although it should..
I could not bleed the front brakes after I re-installed the K-member after it had been out for 2 weeks. All I got was air. I tried everything!
I actually though about trying to drive it (and lock up the brakes) but the thought of taking it off of the stands only to put it back on seemed like a waste of energy.
I got the block to bleed by turning the key to on and spinning each front wheel by hand as fast as I could while you have someone alternate tapping the brake lightly and then holding light pressure. The block instantly bleed out the air. Lastly I bled the front, left and right calipers and the brakes are back 100%
I am not sure if this will work for all systems but it worked for me, and I'm not sure if it would work for rear single channel axles, although it should..
Last edited by 9t8z28; Apr 26, 2010 at 09:46 PM.
