Outer Tie Rod Boot Replacement?
05-20-2009, 09:14 PM
#1
Outer Tie Rod Boot Replacement? Guys/Gals,
Quick question, while doing some routine maintenance last weekend on my T/A I noticed that the dust boots on both front tie rod ends (outer) were torn. I'm gonna be replacing them this weekend with some replacements but need to know the best way to get the outer tie rod disconnected from the spindle without screwing it up. Both tie rods are good and there is zero play and very tight so just gonna grease the new boot and replace em'. I did get the tie rod removal tool (2 jaw pusher/puller) from my local AdvanceAuto, will this work without screwing up the good tie rod? Any suggestions are welcome. When putting it back on do I need to press the tie rod end back onto the spindle or just let the upper nut pull (castle nut) it on?
Also, while I am down there is there a good way to check my CAB's (control arm bushings - upper and lower) as well as my lower and upper ball joints to make sure they are good. The car only has 48K on the clock and is rarely driven but she is 14 years old and I wanna keep up with the routine maintenance.
Quick question, while doing some routine maintenance last weekend on my T/A I noticed that the dust boots on both front tie rod ends (outer) were torn. I'm gonna be replacing them this weekend with some replacements but need to know the best way to get the outer tie rod disconnected from the spindle without screwing it up. Both tie rods are good and there is zero play and very tight so just gonna grease the new boot and replace em'. I did get the tie rod removal tool (2 jaw pusher/puller) from my local AdvanceAuto, will this work without screwing up the good tie rod? Any suggestions are welcome. When putting it back on do I need to press the tie rod end back onto the spindle or just let the upper nut pull (castle nut) it on?
Also, while I am down there is there a good way to check my CAB's (control arm bushings - upper and lower) as well as my lower and upper ball joints to make sure they are good. The car only has 48K on the clock and is rarely driven but she is 14 years old and I wanna keep up with the routine maintenance.
05-20-2009, 10:11 PM
#2
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need to know the best way to get the outer tie rod disconnected from the spindle without screwing it up.
Use two similar size and shape hammers, identical if possible, and rap hard on the spindle at the tie-rod hole from two opposing sides at the same time. If one hammer is smaller swing it harder so that the blows arrive with the same amount of force. It's important that they hit at the same instant. It may take a few practice trys to get it right. It may take several hits but they all will suddenly let go and allow you to lift the tie rod strait out.
I did get the tie rod removal tool (2 jaw pusher/puller) from my local AdvanceAuto, will this work without screwing up the good tie rod?
It should yes, if it doesn't use the above method.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Keep a tall cool beverage handy and park in the shade.
When putting it back on do I need to press the tie rod end back onto the spindle or just let the upper nut pull (castle nut) it on?
Just torque the nut to specs and just enough further if needed to install a fresh Cotter Pin.
Also, while I am down there is there a good way to check my CAB's (control arm bushings - upper and lower)
Just look at them closely, look for dispaced or dry rotted rubber and off center shafts. There should be no metal to metal contact.
as well as my lower and upper ball joints to make sure they are good.
Raise one side at a time about an inch or two off the ground. with a big long bar wedge the tire up and release several times while looking at the lower ball-joint to spindle gap. It should stay the same and not collapse when the tire goes up and expand as it falls. The upper is not under tension and you can grip the top of the tire and pull and push hard, there shouldn't be any free play. If so determine if its the upper ball or wheel bearing. You'll see it at the upper ball or at neither ball if it's the bearing.
Vernon
Use two similar size and shape hammers, identical if possible, and rap hard on the spindle at the tie-rod hole from two opposing sides at the same time. If one hammer is smaller swing it harder so that the blows arrive with the same amount of force. It's important that they hit at the same instant. It may take a few practice trys to get it right. It may take several hits but they all will suddenly let go and allow you to lift the tie rod strait out.
I did get the tie rod removal tool (2 jaw pusher/puller) from my local AdvanceAuto, will this work without screwing up the good tie rod?
It should yes, if it doesn't use the above method.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Keep a tall cool beverage handy and park in the shade.
When putting it back on do I need to press the tie rod end back onto the spindle or just let the upper nut pull (castle nut) it on?
Just torque the nut to specs and just enough further if needed to install a fresh Cotter Pin.
Also, while I am down there is there a good way to check my CAB's (control arm bushings - upper and lower)
Just look at them closely, look for dispaced or dry rotted rubber and off center shafts. There should be no metal to metal contact.
as well as my lower and upper ball joints to make sure they are good.
Raise one side at a time about an inch or two off the ground. with a big long bar wedge the tire up and release several times while looking at the lower ball-joint to spindle gap. It should stay the same and not collapse when the tire goes up and expand as it falls. The upper is not under tension and you can grip the top of the tire and pull and push hard, there shouldn't be any free play. If so determine if its the upper ball or wheel bearing. You'll see it at the upper ball or at neither ball if it's the bearing.
Vernon
05-21-2009, 10:35 AM
#3
need to know the best way to get the outer tie rod disconnected from the spindle without screwing it up.
Use two similar size and shape hammers, identical if possible, and rap hard on the spindle at the tie-rod hole from two opposing sides at the same time. If one hammer is smaller swing it harder so that the blows arrive with the same amount of force. It's important that they hit at the same instant. It may take a few practice trys to get it right. It may take several hits but they all will suddenly let go and allow you to lift the tie rod strait out.
I did get the tie rod removal tool (2 jaw pusher/puller) from my local AdvanceAuto, will this work without screwing up the good tie rod?
It should yes, if it doesn't use the above method.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Keep a tall cool beverage handy and park in the shade.
When putting it back on do I need to press the tie rod end back onto the spindle or just let the upper nut pull (castle nut) it on?
Just torque the nut to specs and just enough further if needed to install a fresh Cotter Pin.
Also, while I am down there is there a good way to check my CAB's (control arm bushings - upper and lower)
Just look at them closely, look for dispaced or dry rotted rubber and off center shafts. There should be no metal to metal contact.
as well as my lower and upper ball joints to make sure they are good.
Raise one side at a time about an inch or two off the ground. with a big long bar wedge the tire up and release several times while looking at the lower ball-joint to spindle gap. It should stay the same and not collapse when the tire goes up and expand as it falls. The upper is not under tension and you can grip the top of the tire and pull and push hard, there shouldn't be any free play. If so determine if its the upper ball or wheel bearing. You'll see it at the upper ball or at neither ball if it's the bearing.
Vernon
Use two similar size and shape hammers, identical if possible, and rap hard on the spindle at the tie-rod hole from two opposing sides at the same time. If one hammer is smaller swing it harder so that the blows arrive with the same amount of force. It's important that they hit at the same instant. It may take a few practice trys to get it right. It may take several hits but they all will suddenly let go and allow you to lift the tie rod strait out.
I did get the tie rod removal tool (2 jaw pusher/puller) from my local AdvanceAuto, will this work without screwing up the good tie rod?
It should yes, if it doesn't use the above method.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Keep a tall cool beverage handy and park in the shade.
When putting it back on do I need to press the tie rod end back onto the spindle or just let the upper nut pull (castle nut) it on?
Just torque the nut to specs and just enough further if needed to install a fresh Cotter Pin.
Also, while I am down there is there a good way to check my CAB's (control arm bushings - upper and lower)
Just look at them closely, look for dispaced or dry rotted rubber and off center shafts. There should be no metal to metal contact.
as well as my lower and upper ball joints to make sure they are good.
Raise one side at a time about an inch or two off the ground. with a big long bar wedge the tire up and release several times while looking at the lower ball-joint to spindle gap. It should stay the same and not collapse when the tire goes up and expand as it falls. The upper is not under tension and you can grip the top of the tire and pull and push hard, there shouldn't be any free play. If so determine if its the upper ball or wheel bearing. You'll see it at the upper ball or at neither ball if it's the bearing.
Vernon
