Brake Question
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
Brake Question I have a 97 T/A and I just swapped out the front brakes for LS1 style. My abs light and brake like have been on for a while brakes were find pedal was hard car stopped well. I think the abs unit is gone? Come to find out during the brake swap that my left front brake line was dry. We bleed the front brakes after the swap and now its getting fluid.
One question would be should we have bleed all 4 instead of just the front?
abs light/brake light are still on and I have noticed the brake pedal is softer and almost half way down before the brakes kick in. i plan to re-bleed the brakes, but where do I start I know there is a certain procedure you do.
One question would be should we have bleed all 4 instead of just the front?
abs light/brake light are still on and I have noticed the brake pedal is softer and almost half way down before the brakes kick in. i plan to re-bleed the brakes, but where do I start I know there is a certain procedure you do.
flush everything. buying a motive power bleeder is a very good and safe investment. upgrading fluid is always good. either way, it sounds like you may have air in the ABS block. bleeding that, without a power bleeder, is not easy and very time consuming. the ABS only cycles for a few seconds when the car is first started, and rear wheels reach a speed of 8-10mph.
what you have to do, is jack the rear frame, let the tires hang loose. put the bleeder on, under pressure. open the right rear bleeder. start the car, let out the clutch (or put in drive for stab & steer people) and let it idle to speed. the ABS should cycle, and the bleeder should push fluid through it and out the RR bleeder. you have to do this ALOT, all the while adding fresh fluid to the master. buying cheap DOT3 in a gallon jug will help. you can always refill with different fluid if you want. after 20 seconds or so, close the bleeder, and shut the car off. then open the bleeder, start the car, idle, shut, repeat about 10x.
when you get clean, new fluid at the RR, you can stop the ABS bleeding, and resume normal bleeding, continuing to the LR, RF then LF. if you want upgraded fluid, you can reflush with the power bleeder, but not worry about the ABS.
it can also be done with a scan tool, that dealers have and i assume some higher-end shops.
side note: have you checked the ABS fuses and such, for something easy and stupid like that?
what you have to do, is jack the rear frame, let the tires hang loose. put the bleeder on, under pressure. open the right rear bleeder. start the car, let out the clutch (or put in drive for stab & steer people) and let it idle to speed. the ABS should cycle, and the bleeder should push fluid through it and out the RR bleeder. you have to do this ALOT, all the while adding fresh fluid to the master. buying cheap DOT3 in a gallon jug will help. you can always refill with different fluid if you want. after 20 seconds or so, close the bleeder, and shut the car off. then open the bleeder, start the car, idle, shut, repeat about 10x.
when you get clean, new fluid at the RR, you can stop the ABS bleeding, and resume normal bleeding, continuing to the LR, RF then LF. if you want upgraded fluid, you can reflush with the power bleeder, but not worry about the ABS.
it can also be done with a scan tool, that dealers have and i assume some higher-end shops.
side note: have you checked the ABS fuses and such, for something easy and stupid like that?
